just saying baw. when i had my honda painted i was dying to wax it bad!!! i use presta spray n wax on it thats safe it has no sealers also it cost me 1 k to paint it so u see why i followed the painters directions lol
ya i painted a bike back in november using rattle cans ( i live in California not too cold) it still took a good couple of weeks to not take an indent from my finger nail ( i did lay the paint on kinda thick and quick between coats). so im still learning patience with paint.
Hey guys, Just so yall can have an idea of my bike.. the forks are going to be black...not primer lol.
And why is the 36t sprocket on the front wheel? i dunno.... I ordered a nice set of 12 guage steel wheels from pistonbikes.com and im waitin to mount it on those... I am also working on making a set back seat post..(boardtracker style) not sure what they are called.. Ive built a few of these, but this one is more than just the kit mounted, i want it to be perfect.
I just sprayed the Monark with acrylic enamel and since it has a hardner in it, there is a definate spray time between coats. All paint should be sprayed at around 70 degrees.
I'm waiting about 3 days before I do anything with mine. I won't even handle it since I have been warned that oil on your hands can affect the finish even after it is sprayed and appears dry.
I think that waxing the paint too soon lets the silicones in the wax attack the paint. Silicone is what causes fish eyes in paint. I can tell you from many sad experiances the sinking feeling that you get from looking back at a perfect pass with a spray gun and watching the fish eyes form as the solvents pull some long forgotten spill up out of the wood.
I am not a professional painter but 40+ years of restoring antique furniture and hanging around friends body shops teaches you enough about spraying and temperatures that finishes work ok in. Heat is a must because a large amount of the drying happens in the first hours after your finished spraying. In this period the solvents in the paint release and kick off the drying process. Not enough heat and the paint breaks down a little as the solvents keep it soft and it never reaches it's correct hardness.
This is why some paints and primers give you a time to recoat or you have to sand the finish if you are going to recoat it. The solvents have gone and the finish has to be sanded to give the new coat a tooth to bond to. Spray it in the given time frame and the new coat melts into the surface of the previous coat.
I was good at sanding and could tape off cars ect. so was always asked to help out when my friends got busy.
Painters are a tough lot since the vehicle is judged by the quality of the paint and there is always a love/hate relationship between bodymen and the painters since if the bodyman doesn't do it right the painter has to send it back and as you can guess that makes waves.
I worked with a painter who was the best I have ever seen. He didn't just spray paint, he knew what the paint did every step of the way until it was dry. That's how I know.
He was spraying his own custom car when one of the bodymen who he fought with all the time walked by the spray booth and stuck a bottle of silicone spray up agaist the filters of the spray booth door and gave it a long, hard blast and hid the can.
The car was a disaster and so was the bodyman when the painter finished with him.
Police looked at the car and never pressed charges. The body man left the state since he couldn't get a job because the word was out.
chrisE, the way I was told, paint is a three step process.
Spray a light coat first. You can see the primer through the paint. That is the tack coat and it holds the next coat so it doesn't run.
Next coat is the colour coat. You may see a little light/dark variations some places.
The finish coat gives you the final paint job.
The hardest thing I had to learn was that you couldn't do it all in one or two coats and not to pile it on. My nickname when I first started as a kid helping in a body shop and they let me spray primer once in a while, was Curtains. When you look at runs as they cascade down a body panel you will see why. I got very good at shaving runs. One of the best if I say so myself. Lord knows I had lots of practise.
The fact your paint was still soft after 2 weeks is normal if you painted it heavily with enamel. This is why they bake the finish on in body shops that do enamel paint so the hardner kicks off.
Our bikes went through long heated tunnels with air blowing on them so that they could be painted and primed without waiting for them to dry normally.
well my painter is a platinum certified ppg tech i think i believe him ya
That's probably his reccomendation, not anything PPG actually recommends.. any painter I'v ever talked to said 1 month before waxing.. I'v never had a problem waiting a month before waxing anything I'v painted.. but I'v seen the mess, waxing days or weeks after causes
he's probably had some kind of adhesion issue at some point and blamed it on 'waxing early'.
Here are some updates on my bike..
Its coming up pretty well.. Im still waiting on my new motor and rims.. Cant wait till they get here..
This is my first time paint job, and im using rattle can paint.. Any suggestions on anything would be great.. or complaints.. . It is a sunny day outside right now, so i have my bike out cooking, paint is hardening finally.. so thats a relief thanks to all that helped me with advice.
Soon to have.. sitback seat post which is in the making. =)... And also my forks will soon be black..