Chain problems

[AaronF]

Alright so I'm finally posting about my chain problems that I've let go for to long..I have a 66cc with the stock 44T sprocket and 415 chain.I've never been able to get my chain aligned with the motors gear due to my sprocket not being perfectly straight onto the wheel hub.When I first built my MB I cut the chain to length to use without the chain tensioner now after 150 miles the chain has stretched 2-3 inches.There is no room on my MTB to shim the motor mounts or move.I thought about just buying a quality #41 chain and a motorcycle chain tool but then again I could just buy a sprocket adapter for a little more from Manic but I can't wait 1-2 months to receive the adapter because MB is mine and moms only transportation.I must admit in the last year of owning 4 MB's I've spent a tremendous amount of money and yet still stuck working on my MB more than I have rode the darn thing!

I don't own shop tools but have a bench vise,drill,dremel,sander,sockets and plenty of wrenches.I would like to eliminate the stock tensioner,chain problems and finally be able to ride my MB without wrenching every 20 minutes so I need suggestions/ideas on what to do here.I would really appreciate any kind of help. Thank you.

[bairdco]

is it a single speed, coaster brake? if it is, you can get a different size sprocket, either front or rear for the pedal side. a one tooth change (like an 18 to a 19, or a 40 to a 41) will give you about a half inch difference in the engine side. it has to be an odd to even or vice versa.

when i first set my bike up, i put on the pedal side sprockets i want to use, then set up the engine sprocket and chain in the center of the drop-outs. i adjust it so the engine side is where i want it, and then try fitting the pedal side chain. if it's too loose, i'll go up a tooth in the rear, if it's too tight, i go down a tooth.

you can't go two teeth, because then you'll have to add or remove links on the engine side, and it'll be exactly back where you started.

it's kinda hard to find rear sprockets these days for some reason, though. most older bike shops usually have them. front's should be easier.

if you don't have a single speed, sorry. couldn't tell ya.

[AaronF]

Originally Posted by bairdco

is it a single speed, coaster brake? if it is, you can get a different size sprocket, either front or rear for the pedal side. a one tooth change (like an 18 to a 19, or a 40 to a 41) will give you about a half inch difference in the engine side. it has to be an odd to even or vice versa.

when i first set my bike up, i put on the pedal side sprockets i want to use, then set up the engine sprocket and chain in the center of the drop-outs. i adjust it so the engine side is where i want it, and then try fitting the pedal side chain. if it's too loose, i'll go up a tooth in the rear, if it's too tight, i go down a tooth.

you can't go two teeth, because then you'll have to add or remove links on the engine side, and it'll be exactly back where you started.

it's kinda hard to find rear sprockets these days for some reason, though. most older bike shops usually have them. front's should be easier.

if you don't have a single speed, sorry. couldn't tell ya.

I actually just got a pair of new double walled machined side wall wheels and threw on a single speed kit to the freehub.I don't really want to mess with the gearing/crank until I find a SP crank with short crank arms to clear the centrifugal cover.

My main problem is mounting the motor for clearance and getting straight alignment with the chain and sprocket..If/when I ever get the motor mount I ordered 6 months ago it will allow me more options and most likely solve these issues So I guess I'm outta of transportation until than because I can't afford anything else lol Thanks Bairdco

[AaronF]

I'm having problems installing the rear sprocket flush onto the hub.When I put the black washer piece inside the spokes and one on the outside of the spokes there isn't enough room for the sprocket to seat onto the hub even when tightened down.

The hub is a Shimano FH-201 Here's a close photo of the hub itself.

What are my options to getting the sprocket centered straight onto the hub?

[Nougat]

Have you tightened it down yet? There may be more room than you think. Once you get everything snugged up, the sprocket may seat nicely enough.

If it remains an issue, get a hub adapter and forget all about the rag joint.

[AaronF]

Originally Posted by Nougat

Have you tightened it down yet? There may be more room than you think. Once you get everything snugged up, the sprocket may seat nicely enough.

If it remains an issue, get a hub adapter and forget all about the rag joint.

Yes the sprocket does not seat onto the hub with the dampeners in place.

I've called Manic to see about the adapter but they won't answer any of my calls..I can't waste anymore $ My best option as of right now is to pitch everything in a dumpster and be done

[Nougat]

The sprocket doesn't have to be touching the hub to work properly. It just needs to be centered. Sure, it would be a lot easier to center if it did touch the hub, but that doesn't matter. The rag joint turns the wheel by grabbing the spokes, not by grabbing the hub. I'd have to go look, but I'm pretty sure the center hole in my sprocket is way bigger than the hub.

Put it on, tighten it down a little at a time, slowly, check it for center often by spinning the wheel while holding the axle and looking at the sprocket's edge. If it's off center, you'll see the sprocket moving up and down as it spins. Nudge it back on center while eyeballing the center hole around the hub. You might be able to use a screwdriver as a pry bar there between the hub and sprocket to move it just a bit. If you check it for true and it wobbles, you know you need to tighten bolts on one side of the joint.

Lather, rinse, repeat. It'll work.