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Old 06-23-2013, 05:26 PM
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2door 2door is offline
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Default Re: Simulated Break In Period

We always suggest that you not expect optimum performance from a new engine until you've put at least 200 miles on it. 300 is even better. 1/3 tank of fuel isn't going to tell you much.

Also don't start adding performance options until at least that 200 mile mark. After that start with spark plug readings to give you an idea (not absolute) but an idea of where your fuel to air mix should be. Typically the higher you are from sea level, the leaner you need to tune your carburetor.

Opti-2 is a good lubricant but it isn't a silver bullet that will make a bad engine run great. Don't expect neck snapping performance just because of your oil choice.

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Last edited by 2door; 06-23-2013 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 06-23-2013, 05:44 PM
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Toadmund Toadmund is offline
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Default Re: Simulated Break In Period

It's just my impatient nature!

All my performance mods are internal.

I know Opti is not (WHAT?!) the silver bullet, but even though this motor is not yet to the performance of my last motor, this new motor sounds and runs better and it doesn't go put-put-put, it goes Thank you - thank you - thank you.

Strange but true!
I love my Motor Bicycle, I love Beer, I'll try not to like them both at once.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:04 PM
Nunyadam Nunyadam is offline
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Default Re: Simulated Break In Period

Originally Posted by 577-Jersey View Post
Proper break in is horse hockey!!!I raced,and worked on 2 stroke bikes my whole life,,for over 35 years,,always taught to break em in like your gonna ride em,,as long as the motor is warmed up you can bring it up to WOT a few times when new,,never hurt it,,even a fully broke in motor could blow if ran WOT for a long period of time,,these are two strokes,high reving motors,,you cant hold em WOT for to long,,but as for break in make sure its warm then just ride it,,keep checking the motor and make sure its running smooth and not too hot,,after a couple tanks I would lean up on the mix.
If break in was so dang important we would have to do it with ALL our 2 cycle motors including chainsaws,weed eaters,blowers,ect....I run mine hard right from the warm up,,never had an issue in 35+years.

Peace out!

I'm just about to buy my first kit and I'm doing research before hand. I tend to agree with your assessment on the break in, but I do have one question. (at the moment. More to follow.)

Chainsaws and Weed Eaters specify 50:1, 32:1, 16:1 and such oil fuel ratios right from the get go. Why do these engines need the extra oil at break in?

Is it really necessary?
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:20 PM
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maniac57 maniac57 is offline
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Default Re: Simulated Break In Period

I'm with the ride it like you stole it crowd.
I've been racing and generally beating the snot out of every type and size engine since I was old enough to wrap and yank a pull start, and I have never had problems.
Ring-dingers need very little break in anyway, and I'd rather find any weakness right off the bat than have it puke 50 miles from the house later. Just give it enough oil and don't gouge on it for at least ten minutes after it starts and you'll be fine.
I've been doing things this way for over 40 years and my junk runs fine.
If more is better, then too much is just enough.
If you can't afford it, build it yourself.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:33 PM
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dodge dude94 dodge dude94 is offline
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Default Re: Simulated Break In Period

I tried the "recommended" break-in.

Got tired of it half way down the street.
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