Finished install and bike won't move

Hophead_90720 · #1 12-28-2009, 06:50 PM

Hello forum friends,

I have been wanting to do this for years and finally did it! The engine is mounted, I seemed to have put the rear sprocket on to clear the coaster brake (with some bending) but not sure about the clutch, exhaust pipe (mounted facing up) but it looks good. My back wheel just skids like it's locked. I've read the forums and can't find a back wheel problem like mine.

Any seasoned moto-bikers that know what happened?

P.S. I love beer!

Glenn

Spunout · #2 12-28-2009, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hophead_90720

Hello forum friends,

I have been wanting to do this for years and finally did it! The engine is mounted, I seemed to have put the rear sprocket on to clear the coaster brake (with some bending) but not sure about the clutch, exhaust pipe (mounted facing up) but it looks good. My back wheel just skids like it's locked. I've read the forums and can't find a back wheel problem like mine.

Any seasoned moto-bikers that know what happened?

P.S. I love beer!

Glenn

beer is good.

what about the coaster brake dust cap? did you grind the edge down, so the sprocket fits nicely over it? if you didnt, its possible that the dust cap got smashed down onto the bearing housing.
that, or perhaps you overtightened the bearing/brake assy. i dont mean to offend, but, are you pulling the clutch in?

Hophead_90720 · #3 12-28-2009, 07:07 PM

I might have tightened the brake assy. too much. I didn't do any grinding in that area so I'm pretty sure the sprocket is tightened over the cap. If I grind the outside of the cap down so that the sprocket clears it, that might work? As for the clutch, I wired the attachement to the arm and when I pull, it doesn't really move. I can move it to swing out (by hand) but it won't pull in using the lever. I'm very new at this so no offense taken. Thanks!

P.S. those are the coolest bikes ever on your link!!!

hrichmon@gmail.com · #4 12-28-2009, 09:16 PM

Hophead,

If the clutch lever is doing nothing to the clutch arm when you squeeze it, I think your clutch cable has too much slack. I would recommend that you loosen the bolt on the clutch arm, then pull the clutch cable tight enough to make the spring (little one) between the clutch arm and engine compress and go straight, but not so tight that the clutch arm itself moves, and then tighten the bolt back. this way the cable is absolutely as tight as it can be without moving the clutch arm, and when you squeeze the clutch lever, the arm will move.

p.s. like greenflash? their beer is epic

Hophead_90720 · #5 12-29-2009, 04:52 AM

I tried to tighten the cable to where there is no tension but the arm doesn't pull inward. It stays pointing straight back. Maybe I missed a step? I'll attach a picture, not sure if it will help any. There is no room to pull the clutch back any further. I've seen pictures where the arm is bent inward more.

Green Flash is one of my favorites.
Love Fresh West Coast IPA or 30th Street Pale Ale!

hrichmon@gmail.com · #6 12-29-2009, 11:49 AM

That's Bizarre. It looks perfect. I take it that since you have the chain already on there that you are able to push the lever in by hand and rotate the sprocket with your fingers? (if not do not push too hard, those things love to brake) If you can move it by hand but not using the lever then perhaps it's your zip ties... if you have a lot of them, and they're real tight, and your cable isn't on a gentle bend down to the motor, it might just have too much tension to work (i've had that happen). Also, i am assuming that it is going through the "thingy" sticking up from the engine to the right of the clutch arm (your spring is compressed so i am guessing it is touching the clutch arm and the "thingy") If you can't move the arm by hand, then i wonder exactly what all you had to do to this clutch. did you have to take the cover plate off? did you have to put the clutch arm onto the shaft yourself? The only thing i'm thinking is that the clutch shaft is in the wrong position (it has a semicircle on the end in the bottom), and this is why it won't move? I am also pretty new to this, so this is as far as im comfortable in trying to guide you.

Le Freak is my favorite... has a Delirium Tremens feel

Hophead_90720 · #7 12-29-2009, 01:19 PM

Well the chain is on there but I can't push the lever in by hand and the sprocket won't move unless I crank it really hard with the spark plug socket from the drive shaft. I did something wrong with the back wheel assy too so can't get to it till this weekend. I think I didn't grind down the coaster brake dust guard and might not have tightened the bearings correctly. I'll check the clutch cable ties. I took the cover off to grind down the teeth on the sprocket with a dremel so the chain will run smoothly. The clutch came all intact but maybe when I took the cover off, I lost something? There is the post with the cut half cylinder in there but when it's in, I'm pretty sure it's flat against that metal piece coming from the center of the drive sprocket. It pulls out and a ball bearing is inside there. I've never worked on an engine before in my life other than oil changes and changing a battery so this is a learning exp...thanks for helping.

Did you try Super Freak? It was an offering at the GF 7th...it was like Le Freak on steroids.

**2door** · #8 12-29-2009, 01:50 PM

Hophead,
The clutch lever, the one on the engine, can be pushed inward by hand but it takes a lot of force. If your cable is binding or too loose the handlebar lever can not move it. Make sure you have nice gentle bends in the cable with no kinks or sharp bends and that it moves freely before attaching to the engine.
Now let's look at what I think might be your problem because it is a common one with new engines; that being that the clutch friction pads are stuck. Sometimes all it takes is a very hard push inward on the clutch arm. You might need to make a lever from a piece of pipe with an inside diameter slightly larger than the clutch arm. It can be done by hand but use a rag between your palm and the arm. If you can move the lever inward, maybe and inch or more that's good. You might hear a soft 'thunk' sound if the pads come loose. The other method of freeing a stuck clutch is by tapping (don't beat it to death but a good solid hit will suffice) with a soft headed hammer on either the pin which protrudes from the center of the drive sprocket or on the other side around the flower nut. The friction pads can be stuck to the face of the pressure plate from the factory and need a little gentle help to get them to free up. Give these a try and get back to us.
Tom

Hophead_90720 · #9 12-29-2009, 03:04 PM

Thanks 2door, I was trying to push it in but have heard things about parts breaking and bolts striping, so didn't want to force the arm too much. If that part is supposed to move, it's pretty stuck in there. I will try the pipe idea and hopefully jar it loose. I will try this tonight when I get home. I haven't removed the other side yet so I'll check out the clutch and flower nut area. So is that half circle piece suppose to rotate from the flat area to the rounded area? Thanks for the tip! I'll get back to you...I can't wait to get this working!!!

Hophead_90720 · #10 01-04-2010, 01:05 PM

Update: I got the clutch working and I'm working on understanding the carberator and fuel lines. I can get it to go for about a block and the chain falls off or gets snagged on either sprocket. I had trouble with getting the chain the correct size so I am using the chain guide. Do I need to file down the rear sprocket teeth too? I am assuming that my rear sprocket is too crooked so I hope to figure it out soon. Almost there...I love this hobby!