are the metal pieces that go around the sprocket necessary?

grandpa2390 · #1 12-26-2009, 01:20 PM

kind of hard to explain. the motor's sprocket on the bike i am using right now is set up like this. from outside to inside: sprocket, metal disc (split into three parts), the rubber gasket thing, spokes, rubber gasket thing, another metal disc, then nuts and washers. The problem is that if this setup is correct (please inform me of the proper way) the sprocket is too close to the frame and the chain will grind on the frame while riding. My question is if any of those pieces in this setup is unnecessary and can be removed in order to give the sprocket and chain some room. can i remove one of the metal discs or rubber gasket things (not sure what it is called), and which one? inside or outside of the wheel. (inside being behind the spokes and outside being between the spokes and sprocket).

**Dave31** · #2 12-26-2009, 01:48 PM

Yes, you can remove the outer metal disc as you put it.

sprocket/rubber/spokes/rubber/metal disc

corgi1 · #3 12-26-2009, 08:26 PM

That was a question I had also as the directions I saw on one of the dealers sites looked like the sproket went against the spokes and this too me would cut the spokes in short order .
it looked like sproket/spokes/rubber/rubber/metal disk,,,this seems wrong for spokes to touch metal

**2door** · #4 12-26-2009, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by corgi1

That was a question I had also as the directions I saw on one of the dealers sites looked like the sproket went against the spokes and this too me would cut the spokes in short order .
it looked like sproket/spokes/rubber/rubber/metal disk,,,this seems wrong for spokes to touch metal

It is wrong. The spokes should be 'sandwiched' between the rubber parts. The order should be from the outside, in: Sprocket, rubber, spokes, rubber, half moon metal plates.
Tom

Nougat · #5 12-26-2009, 09:03 PM

Yeah, the instructions for my RAW motor kit described the sprocket installed with the sprocket against the spokes, and with both rubber rings inside the spokes.

If you are reading this, you already know that this forum exists. The best thing you can do when you get an engine kit is take the nth generation photocopied Chinglish instructions and put them in the recycling bin. There are far better sets of instructions to be had on the intarwebs, not to mention all the advice from the good people here.

bairdco · #6 12-26-2009, 11:05 PM

"are the metal pieces that go around the sprocket necessary?"

you mean the chain? yeah. you need that.

hahahahaha... sorry, been drinkin' a little

**Norman** · #7 12-27-2009, 09:59 AM

this is for changing out the sprocket from 44 to 36 tooth, but also shows how to mount up a sprocket as well seeing this will help you get it right, I hope.

http://motorbicycling.com/f39/motori...ocket-381.html

if you go to" norms 2 stroke repair center" and look at and read the sticky posts. The posts and pictures might answer a question or show you how to do a fix for a problem you might have.
I try to answer and show everyone a down to earth easy way to fix problems no rocket science needed no slide rule or calculator needed well maybe a ruler and a dial indicator or two.
If you know what I mean? If you have a problem or question either post it or PM me I'm here to help.
Norman

**2door** · #8 12-27-2009, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinkermeister

If the chain is rubbing against the frame you can solve that by using the chain tensioner and lifting it away from the frame.

Correct, as long as you don't mis-align the chain path. The tensioner is there to guide the chain onto the rear sprocket. Lateral misalignment, either in or out will open up a whole new can of worms. There are other ways to get the chain away from the tire/frame. Installing a couple of extra washers on the rear axle between the frame and hub is one way.
Tom

marts1 · #9 12-27-2009, 05:46 PM

I remember d/l 3 different sets of instructions and going over all of them before I started installation...still had my share of troubles.

Motorbike Wanabe · #10 12-30-2009, 06:31 AM

We just installed a kit on a bike and used both sets of metal plates on the inside of the entire assembly. Basically, they were the last items to go on before the washers and nuts. We spaced them out so that none of the joints overlapped. This REALLY helped with keeping the joints from overlapping each other and the nuts/bolts tightened much easier, without fighting them. Also, the instructions say to install the sprocket (if you have a dished one) with the "shiny" side in which makes the teeth dish out from the wheel. We installed it with the teeth dished in and it helped clear the frame and still clears the tire.