Gas Tank Liners

Vistaman73 · #1 12-12-2009, 09:07 PM

OK, let's talk about the gas tanks. What I am really aiming for is a debate over tank liners. Are they necessary? How do you use a tank liner? Are there any alternatives? And lastly, Would the new Sta-bil work just as well to prevent oxidizing (and maybe rust)? I am sure many people, including me, would love to be enlightend. Please, feel free to leave tips and tricks so we can all have a clean tank.

**Bikeguy Joe** · #2 12-13-2009, 11:05 AM

Most folks just clean out the tank and run an in line filter.
A liner is not needed.

I swear by sta-bil, but only for preserving gasoline. It is a little rough running in two strokes if the correct amount is exceeded, even by a little bit.

jimraysr · #3 12-13-2009, 12:34 PM

I have a trail-bike (Yamaha oil-pumper 2 stroke) that was stored for several years. When I renovated it I found two things. One the clutch was stuck engaged and the tank had a lot of little holes in it. Epoxy lining was the only fix.

The clutch is oil filled multi-plate. The constant pressure squeezed out the oil and the plates stuck together. Now I store it with the clutch lever partially retracted with a loop over the handlebar. Was able to break the plates loose through the dipstick hole and didn't have to pull the side case.

Condensate in this country is a major problem. In the sun during the day and reaching 140 degrees (F) (110 air) and then drop to 80 at night. I have had the same corrosion problem with valve electric actuator motors. The aluminum case breaths out in the day and sucks in moisture laden air at night and it condenses on the case. So I think the tank would rust out eventually with or without any gas.

The fix is get all the loose rust out by putting gravel in the tank and shake it, dump it out and do it over until there isn't anymore loose rust. Then as I recall there was a cleaner before putting in the epoxy liner.

Sears had sizes for motor cycle tanks and car / truck tanks.

I got rid of the teardrop top bar tank and replaced it with a Honda one from their 3 - 5 HP engines. I mounted it on the rear rack under the seat after painting it black with car lacquer and clear coat. It looks to be a galvanized finish inside and no signs of rust, although I have had rust in Honda tanks that were several years old.

The change in tanks was for safety. I can get on and off the bike much easier with the tank out of the way.

That is my 2 cents.

Jim

Cabinfever1977 · #4 12-13-2009, 05:07 PM

Im using the stock teardrop tank for a year now and no signs of rust,im not using any liner,and im only using the stock in the tank gas filter. i store my bike in my apartment and use it every couple days.

Earthman · #5 12-13-2009, 10:32 PM

The tank supplied with the engine was rusty inside when I received it. Apparently, this isn't unusual. I removed the rust with Naval Jelly Rust Remover, which costs about $6 at many hardware stores. Worked great - removed all the rust with little effort on my part (just the way I like it). I didn't line the tank, but did put an inline filter in (always a good idea). I keep the tank full when not using the bike to prevent condensation. No problems so far with rust returning. The tank is still bright and shiny inside.

camlifter · #6 12-14-2009, 07:20 AM

when you coat the inside of a metal tank you need to clean it well with a soap solution, rinse it out, then etch it with a phosphate solution, then make sure it's compleatly dry inside before you coat it. if you don't etch it and make sure it's dry the coating will come off in chunks and plug up the petcock. most tank liner kits come with the proper 3 step chemicals to do the job right. i don't see the need for it on a stock tank, if your tank did rust, a new tank cost less than a sealer kit. good sealer kits are around $40.