Flower Nut Vs Stanchion Collar

xlite · #1 11-26-2009, 05:35 PM

I have a question about HT clutch. What is the relationship between adjusting the collar under the stanchion hole and tightening the flower nut? Do they both effect clutch pad tension the same or unrelated?

george_n_texas · #2 11-26-2009, 05:42 PM

I opened mine up on the right side of the engine and the dish as pretty loose in there I went ahead and took it completely off just to see the chutch pads and reasembled it. I gotta believe the flower nut has to have a lot to do with adjusting the clutch as that dish is what the pads do their friction gripping on.

**2door** · #3 11-26-2009, 09:11 PM

X,
Take a look at this. It might answer your questions. http://motorbicycling.com/f30/animat...haft-8939.html
Tom

george_n_texas · #4 11-26-2009, 09:35 PM

That is way cool animation. Thanks!

Maxvision · #5 11-27-2009, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xlite

I have a question about HT clutch. What is the relationship between adjusting the collar under the stanchion hole and tightening the flower nut? Do they both effect clutch pad tension the same or unrelated?

Heh, funny you should post this thread at this time. Just had a problem with a used engine I picked up. Clutch was slipping, tightened up the flower nut as tight as I could but the clutch would still slip. Read a post on this forum somewhere about adjusting the primary clutch spring through the stanchion post.

People were having problems with their clutch lever being so tight that they were breaking cables and such. Thought hey, maybe it works in reverse too. So I tightened the primary spring today. Will see tomorrow if the clutch still slips.

So, from what I've gleaned so far, the flower nut will just adjust the throw of your clutch lever on the case (loosen and the lever will be further from the stanchion, tighten and the lever will be closer). Adjusting the primary spring from the stanchion post will change how much pressure your clutch plate will have on the clutch pads.

xlite · #6 11-27-2009, 05:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxvision

Heh, funny you should post this thread at this time. Just had a problem with a used engine I picked up. Clutch was slipping, tightened up the flower nut as tight as I could but the clutch would still slip. Read a post on this forum somewhere about adjusting the primary clutch spring through the stanchion post.

People were having problems with their clutch lever being so tight that they were breaking cables and such. Thought hey, maybe it works in reverse too. So I tightened the primary spring today. Will see tomorrow if the clutch still slips.

So, from what I've gleaned so far, the flower nut will just adjust the throw of your clutch lever on the case (loosen and the lever will be further from the stanchion, tighten and the lever will be closer). Adjusting the primary spring from the stanchion post will change how much pressure your clutch plate will have on the clutch pads.

Yes, that is exactly my situation. Used engine slips and flower nut didn't help so I'm eyeing that stanchion hole. It's much more difficult than the flower nut so I'm waiting with bated breath to hear how it works out.

xlite · #7 11-27-2009, 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2door

X,
Take a look at this. It might answer your questions. http://motorbicycling.com/f30/animat...haft-8939.html
Tom

Yes, I saved those and all Jims drawings some time ago. True works of art.

The drawings seem to indicate to me they both put more pressure on the clutch but I'm not famous for interpreting these things correctly. Max has a slightly different take so it will be very interesting to see how he makes out.

Humsuckler · #8 11-27-2009, 09:01 AM

i have adjusted a clutch through the stanchion hole, ad it really is the best way. dont even bother with the flower nut....

here is what you do. pull in and lock the clutch, remove your carb with the manifold on it, remove your clutch cable holder from its place (STANCHION IF THATS WHAT ITS CALLED) get yourself a small centerpunch about 2mm across or less and put it in the hole, roll the bike backwards untill the punch engage the lockring. hold it in the ring and roll it back some more mabye two feet.

the only pita is if you tighten it too much. if its too tight, repeat above but roll the bike forward instead.

*desired result: a harder biting clutch.

**Bikeguy Joe** · #9 11-27-2009, 10:54 AM

Yes! It is easy to do, but be advised that the adjustment can as Humsuckler said, be touchy.

Great explanation Maxvision.

xlite · #10 11-27-2009, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Humsuckler

pull in and lock the clutch, remove your carb with the manifold on it, remove your clutch cable holder from its place (STANCHION IF THATS WHAT ITS CALLED)

Pulling in and locking the clutch does not seem to work out. If I'm not mistaken the clutch cable must be removed in order to take out the stanchion. Locking clutch is a step for adjusting flower nut.

So it appears the flower nut has nothing to do with getting the clutch to "bite" more?