Chain Slips at High RPM's.

Traveller · #1 11-24-2009, 11:29 AM

My chain is slipping at high speeds (~20+mph) and either falls onto the rag joint, or out on the axle. Why? NOTE: I could go hundreds of miles, litterally at 15-20MPH and the chain wouldn't jump off. I removed as many excess links as possible.

The sprocket (non-offsetted 44T) is running true. The only thing that I changed was the iddler which I put on the top slanted part of the frame, so it makes contact with the chain on the way back into the engine.

--Traveller

I am running a stock 80cc SkyHawk setup on a 26" cruiser bike.

Riding Rich · #2 11-24-2009, 02:26 PM

Sounds like Alignment too me.
The motor sprocket is a little offset from the rear sprocket.
I use spacers behind the rear mount to take up the chain slack

I never liked the tensioner.
Seems to be an accident waiting to happen.

So it's one or the other

A)
the chain is too loose and comes off with higher velocities.

B)
the sprockets aren't in perfect alignment and chain comes off at high velocity.

Just think about how many feet per minet that chain is traveling.
At higher speeds it's movin.

Bikeguy Joe · #3 11-24-2009, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Traveller

My chain is slipping at high speeds (~20+mph) and either falls onto the rag joint, or out on the axle. Why? NOTE: I could go hundreds of miles, litterally at 15-20MPH and the chain wouldn't jump off. I removed as many excess links as possible.

The sprocket (non-offsetted 44T) is running true. The only thing that I changed was the iddler which I put on the top slanted part of the frame, so it makes contact with the chain on the way back into the engine.

--Traveller

I am running a stock 80cc SkyHawk setup on a 26" cruiser bike.

The problem started when you moved the tensioner?

Read my signature.
Then put it back.

Bikeguy Joe · #4 11-24-2009, 03:17 PM

The tensioner/guide is not supposed to be on the driven run.

**2door** · #5 11-24-2009, 04:50 PM

Not to start another tensioner debate but they do help with alignment if the engine and wheel sprocket are not or can not be in perfect alignmemt. The tensioner wheel will help guide the chain onto the rear sprocket. Mounting it as you did, on the top chain run, it will only help hold the chain tension but at the wrong time and place.
Tom

captainrichhill · #6 11-24-2009, 04:55 PM

Bottom run of chain. Too much force during load (running). Check your tension of the chain. 1/2 to3/4" slack. More then that could run into problems.

Venice Motor Bikes · #7 11-24-2009, 06:26 PM

Put the tensioner back where it's suppossed to be!

Riding Rich · #8 11-24-2009, 06:46 PM

Get rid of the tensioner and perfect alignment and tension you'll love it.
Why keep something eles around to break........................
And lock you rear wheel..........................
And break you spokes ?????????????????

Use the shims in between the rear mount and the motor.
.032 inch shim = allmost 1 chain link.
Get the tension good without the tensioner and you are Golden.

I used a tensioner for an hour.
After that it was By BY.....

Unless of course you make that custom skate wheel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111111

FileStyle · #9 11-24-2009, 08:08 PM

the chain Idler is to direct the chain onto the rear sprocket, therefore it does need to be on the bottom chainstay. if on top ,there is nothing to direct chain to sprocket!
I concur, put it back! the skatewheel method is what I have.

xlite · #10 11-27-2009, 10:26 AM

I made that same dumb mistake. It was worse than no tensioner at all in my case.