Gas valve/

Dylanpieper · #1 10-17-2009, 09:00 PM

IS this absolutely necessary or can i ditch it til my new one comes in cause the gas still just sits in the filter and the engine wont eat it. The problem is it was stiped when i got it. and plumber adhesive stuff doesn't work to well. ALso does the gass eat away plastic?

Thanks.

**Norman** · #2 10-18-2009, 10:07 AM

the gas valve is not needed if you don't mind all of your fuel leaking out if your float sticks. If you keep your bike inside you need to have a way of shutting off the fuel.
Think of all the ways leaking fuel could cause a problem.
If you go ahead a run it with out a valve put in only enough fuel for the ride or ride it until your out of fuel before putting the bike away. Its not likely to have a fire but don't get lazy as things can go to
4ell very quickly.

some plastics can be attacked by gas.
Your fuel filter won't always look full either same for the fuel line.
if you can find it a product called Rector seal #5 works very well on sealing fuel line threads just a small dab on the first couple of threads will do the trick and this stuff sets soft so you can remove the fitting at a later date its also not affected by the fuel/oil.

**BarelyAWake** · #3 10-19-2009, 03:50 AM

A replacement fuel petcock is cheap, check yer local auto parts/lawnmower repair store - they're usually only a buck or two.

This is a grievous sin I know, but I couldn't find a metric one, hated the kit one, and I didn't want the floppy in-line petcock - so I used a standard with a bit of pipe tape on the threads (after "dry" threading it to tap). 700 miles later and not a drop spilled.

I gotta ask tho - what are you planning on using for a fitting in the tank if you have no shutoff valve? Seems to me it's just as easy to get a petcock as it is to find a elbow fitting lol

bseelbach · #4 10-19-2009, 02:24 PM

For a recent build I used a 1/8 MIP to 1/4 barb elbow adapter. It was $5 in the plumbing section at Ace. You can find a 1/4 in line fuel shut off virtually anywhere. If you can, try to make a loop or sag in the fuel line before the shut off or filter. This will act like a ptrap in plumbing and catch the heavy sediment so that it doesn't screw up anything else.It is easier when using a rear tank but I'm sure you could rig something for a tube mount tank.

**BarelyAWake** · #5 10-19-2009, 02:43 PM

Good 'un bseelbach - add in a T fitting, a short length of clear line, and an inline petcock and you could drain the water & gunk.

That's an ultralight trick lol

karma1968 · #6 11-10-2009, 08:52 AM

i found that out the hard way. got up to the smell of gas in my apartment. the petcock that comes with the kit is junk...

but i did find a good replacement.

Bikeguy Joe · #7 11-10-2009, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by karma1968

i found that out the hard way. got up to the smell of gas in my apartment. the petcock that comes with the kit is junk...

but i did find a good replacement.

and that replacement would be...?

karma1968 · #8 11-10-2009, 12:32 PM

from the tank to the valve its all copper. a inch of copper after the value its rubber gas line to the carb.

only rubber in this valve is around the handle rest is copper. kinda give it that old school look

and the best part i can turn off the fuel ;( i took apart the included gas valve that comes with the kit. do they really think that will stop the fuel? talk about cheap.
im just a little pissed now i need to fix my floor. even if i had a garage its still a fire hazard..