High revs

marts1 · #1 10-14-2009, 06:37 PM

After about 300 miles my motor revs are quite high when I first start up the motor and then revs down to a somewhat normal rate, but still just a tad high. I use the choke until its warmed up to slow the revs. If I put the choke to full it will cease to run which kinda makes me think it is not an air leak. I have not checked for air leaks as yet because I have run out of WD and am not really sure of any other way to check and I'm thinking it might be something else. I have not done any mods yet. Any help at all whether right or wrong is much appreciated.

marts1 · #2 10-15-2009, 12:56 AM

I took the carb off and found a fair amount of dirt granules on the bottom of the bowl. Is this normal?

marts1 · #3 10-15-2009, 02:14 AM

I registered with this site awhile after I got the motor so I knew very little other then what was in the manuel so a no to the rinsing of the tank. If rust looks a lot like sand then maybe thats what it was. Cleaned it all out of course and I took off the manifold I guess its called and it looked fine. I put some form a gasket on the join anyway. I was thinking if I still have the problem, as I havn't tested it yet, if the leak could be where the carb hooks up the the manifold. Hopefully I have the wording good enough here to be understandable.

**BarelyAWake** · #4 10-15-2009, 04:29 AM

In-line filters are a must with these things, the tanks are not lined, tend to be a touch rusty and mine is still spitting little bits of paint into my filter even after 700 miles lol

I shoulda lined it

It defo sounds like you got an air leak somewhere, tho I'd suggest sticking a lil o-ring in the carb where the manifold seats and checking/replacing the intake gasket with a real one (the stock ones are almost useless in most cases) - with two strokes you could be suckin' in air from almost anywhere.

Check all around both the upper and lower gaskets on the cylinder - lookin for "soot" or greasy nastiness near the head and base gaskets, often the headbolts weren't torqued properly at the factory and/or sometimes the milling process leaves a bit to be desired. Check the gasket seam where the two halves of the crankcase join and take a look at the base of the clutch's cable guide (nearest the clutch arm), this cable guide wasn't tightened enough on mine and was leaking a bit.

Lastly - there's the couple of bearing seals, look for excessive oil in your clutch housing and magneto, fortunately it's unlikely it's those with a newer motor.

Odds are it IS simply the intake manifold - specifically where the carb mounts. It's not a bad idea to keep an eye on the other stuff though

marts1 · #5 10-15-2009, 09:57 AM

It did come with a filter and do use it. Purdy cool you mentioned to check for oil around the cable guide as I had noticed oil there for the last little while and that was another thing that I tightened up last night. I will be testing the motor today if the weather allows and thank you for all the great advice guys. I'll be sure to let you know how it goes.

marts1 · #6 10-15-2009, 04:30 PM

Just as I suspected, it's gonna be stubborn.

marts1 · #7 10-15-2009, 09:36 PM

I just finished using an o-ring as instructed on a post from bikeguy and also screwed that clutch cable guide in some more not realising that it can be scewed in too much. Thought I had got some super comression for a minute there lol. Also broke down and got some WD40 today. Calls for rain and snow tomorrow but sunny on saturday. I got time so I actually glad to have this hobby. Was looking at some welding stuff today thinking I would like to make my own creation at some point. As long as the laws don't change much or not at all in this area I will definitly be going much farther with this stuff.

**BarelyAWake** · #8 10-16-2009, 04:55 AM

It is an addiction lol

Any luck gettin' it to run better? Don't let rain stop ya from riding, it's a great way to test yer electrical sys lol

BTW - I wanted to mention about the only thing WD40 is good for is cleanin' stuff, as a lubricant it fails in very short order. If you want a good general purpose penetrating oil that actually lasts a lil longer try PB Blaster: Amazon.com: PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst 16 oz. aerosol: Automotive

I know the can looks a bit odd lol - but it's all the engine techs here at the marina will use. As they're talking about combating dissimilar metal corrosion in a salt water environment - I believe em

Well, that and I've used it a bunch myself and it's ossum.

I dunno what you wanna use stuff like that for on yer bike, but if it's lubrication for cables or chains I wouldn't recommend it - none of the spray penetrating oils last long enough and there's such awesome cable and/or chain lube available it doesn't seem worth it.

marts1 · #9 10-16-2009, 10:57 AM

Thanks BA for that info and you are right. Ive known about how pitiful WD is for qiute a few years which is why I didn't have the stuff in the first place. I only bought it for the purpose of testing for airleaks. Right now I see a little sun so I will go see how the bike is running after last nights work.

**BarelyAWake** · #10 10-16-2009, 11:08 AM

Riiiight - testin fer air leaks lol duh

I shoulda thought of that man - my bad