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Motorized Bicycle General Discussion All topics regarding bicycles with engines.

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  #951  
Old 12-26-2014, 09:04 PM
BobbyT BobbyT is offline
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giddyuperic,
you have to measure your hub to see if it will work.
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  #952  
Old 12-26-2014, 09:49 PM
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bluegoatwoods bluegoatwoods is offline
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Yes. As bobbyT said, you must match your hub to the adapter. I'm not experienced with this since I've always found the rag joint to be adequate when installed properly. So I've never given more than a passing thought to a hub adapter. I'm going to guess that the adapters come in different sizes. If you happen to have some uncommon hub in a non-standard size, then maybe a hub adapter will be more trouble than it's worth. But it's more likely that you can have one that's a-okay. Just be sure to order the right size.

It sounds as though your frame has what are called 'vertical dropouts'. I believe this is the mark of a fairly high quality frame. The manufacturer was so confident of the frame's strength that they felt the could afford to not build in some adjustment room for frame/wheel alignment. They're confident that that frame will stay absolutely straight. One the other hand, I've had vertical dropout bikes that were not perfectly straight. One of them was brand new. The tire only barely cleared the chainstay. If there are other reasons that bike manufacturers build vertical dropout bikes over horizontal types, then I don't know what those reasons might be.

And, yes, you do want to fix the issue with your engine chain binding under that drive sprocket cover. It's pretty urgent, in fact. A good chain tensioner is the place to start since you won't be able to adjust chain tension using your axle.

Improper chain tension might well be the single biggest cause of trouble for the motorized bicycle newbie. And it can cause trouble for veterans too, of course. Except veterans have usually had enough trouble with that and they make darn sure that that chain is tight and that it's not going to move.
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  #953  
Old 12-30-2014, 03:49 AM
Rudz Rudz is offline
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Park tools beam torque wrench is amazing

Uni filter on Rutoung carburetor with #61 jet is also great!
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  #954  
Old 12-30-2014, 01:09 PM
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GoreWound GoreWound is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluegoatwoods View Post
If you happen to have some uncommon hub in a non-standard size, then maybe a hub adapter will be more trouble than it's worth. But it's more likely that you can have one that's a-okay. Just be sure to order the right size.
Just started skimming through the thread and saw this, relates to my build somewhat.
I am a first time builder who purchased a goofy bike to motorize. there's a thread for it if you want to tell me what I'm doing wrong (please do, thats why I'm posting pictures)

During my time researching for this build (and lurking here) I learned a lot of pros and cons for for different ways of attaching the drive sprocket. and as far as I can tell the best methods bar none is a custom wheel hub built for a sprocket on both sides (you know, if you have sever thousand dollars or a high tech machine shop.

I had maybe 150 dollars I could spend on this above the cost of the kit itself and the bike. and for my bike specifically there was a short list of undeniable facts: replacing the rear wheel is expensive because it's an oddball size, even people skilled in this craft had troubles mounting rag-joints on this bike, and for being rare and expensive to replace the rear wheel is not super-high quality.
Watching youtube videos about this I decided to myself that aligning a rag-joint on this frame had the potential to be a massive hassle. it's obviously a skill that one develops over time and I set my learning curve too high.
not to mention the thin, steeply angled spokes. or the overly wide but not particularly thick hub.
I started to get worried when I saw one hub adapter kit that was built only for this bike that involved drilling nine holes through the hub.
Then I saw a clam-shell adapter.
Then I bought a caliper to measure my axle.
Then I bought a clam-shell adapter.

I am not trying to say that my build needed the thing to work.
I'm saying I needed the thing to work my build.

As a first timer, knowing that my drive sprocket was just way overbuilt and basically impossible to mess up installing, gave me a good backing of confidence for the whole project. the thing was pretty expensive, but it is a precision machine part built to exact specification for that size axle.
(Sorry about this giant post. Tried to drop in two cents, accidental coin-avalanche)
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  #955  
Old 12-30-2014, 05:53 PM
giddyuperic giddyuperic is offline
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Default Re: Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

thanks for the info I am going to go with that same setup on mine too. Just the best place to buy it for the price is out of stock on the size I need. Then I noticed that you only get the hub part you have to buy the sprocket . So any way when it comes in I hope in the next couple of days I can order it and have it in a couple of days. Seems like the best replacement for the rag joint as I have the weak spokes too.
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  #956  
Old 01-01-2015, 11:08 PM
curtisfox curtisfox is offline
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Anybody still use a stick welder? instead of using 6013 rod try 7014 rod its about the same but it is more of a contact rod.Can turn up the heat range some and hold it to the metal and go right along.Much better weld, the metal should be clean though............Curt
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  #957  
Old 01-02-2015, 02:49 AM
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Davezilla Davezilla is offline
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Default Re: Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

Gotta agree on the 7014 rods,they're great for beginners but will also do really good welds. Also for someone who doesn't weld very often getting an inverter type welder is a lot easier to get up and welding with since they eliminate the difficulty in striking an arc.
Tig is still my favorite method but if I do need to stick weld, I'll use the fig power supply since its an inverter and it really helps when I'm out of practice.
I also really like the performance of the inverter combined with a 6011 rod since the arc strike is easy and the 6011 leaves behind very little Slag. The 7014 does leave more slay behind but the welds underneith are excellent
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  #958  
Old 01-02-2015, 08:11 AM
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Chainreaction Chainreaction is offline
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Less RPM is generally better for drilling metal, especially steel. This is an easy one to forget as it seems a little counter-intuitive. If you have an average drill press with the belts that move around to change speeds just put it on the slowest speed when drilling steel for bits around 3/8's and larger. For small bits maybe the next speed up.

There is a formula for this but with the average drill press with preset RPM ranges no need to bother.
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  #959  
Old 01-04-2015, 10:36 AM
curtisfox curtisfox is offline
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Got this video should exsplane some on stick welding.Lots of good metal tech here ............Curt

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6yu...em-subs_digest
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  #960  
Old 01-04-2015, 09:15 PM
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Davezilla Davezilla is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtisfox View Post
Got this video should exsplane some on stick welding.Lots of good metal tech here ............Curt

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6yu...em-subs_digest
I cuncur... All of Jody's videos are excellent for both beginner and more advanced weldars. I even bought a few of those TIG fingers he sells and they make it much easier to get in close to the heat without even feeling the slightest discomfort, they feel a little bulky at first, but let you rest your hand right on the still orange hot bead ya just welded when there's no other way to get in there...
i would also highly recommend anyone learning to weld or wanting to learn to read the articles and watch the videos off his main site... It taught me a lot when I bought my TIG welder a few years back.
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