Nice cover 5-7!
It would look more legit if you had some bungees or rope "holding" it in place.
Now you got me thinking of a large, 1.5 gallon or so tank on the rear rack of my bike with your stealth cover idea over it.
"It's a chinagirl. It's a sometimes fun little engine that often will break your heart. It's disposable.
Does not come with a fortune cookie."
I removed the 212cc HF engine off my race bike and installed an electric motor to please my neighbors........we're celebrating it with a huge party.........15 kegs and 4 live bands! Come join the fun down in San Diego today!!!
EZ Motorbike Dealer - San Diego, CA. http://www.ezmotorbike.com/
Nothing is out of my realm,
if it doesn't fit, make it fit! Beer is the answer....what was the question?
A sense of humor costs nothing, why don't people use them more often?
"You can't buy respect.....you have to earn it"
Say that your clutch (or cable) breaks. Now you have direct drive, and you're miles from home.
To get home under power, drop your bike stand, making sure the back tire is off ground. Start engine. Release bike stand, but DON'T jump on bike. Engine will bog but still run. push bike as fast as you can.....then jump on!
When you have to stop, jump off bike and lift rear tire off ground. When time to go, drop bike and push as fast as you can. Jump on again.
It took me awhile, but I read all 80 pages. Lots of good advice(and some bad. lol )
It seems like an obvious thing to me, but after seeing two bikes with the same problem i have to add this tip.
Keep your wiring as far away from the exhaust as you can.
I watched a guy work on his bike for two days trying to find his "air leak". his bike just didn't have the power it should. Long story short he took my advice and the bike runs like new again.
Also if you have rust in your fuel tank you can do what i did to an old Garden tiller as a temporary fix until you fix the rust problem.
Place a neodymium magnet near the fuel outlet. any metal on the way out of the tank will be pulled to the magnet. (old computer hard drives are a good source for the magnets.)
I bought a camera the other day because I have a handful of mods and tricks that might be useful. But I've found that this cheap camera takes awful photos.
Oh, well........... Guess I'd better get a better camera.
Still, a couple of the photos I took are good enough. So I'll post them and I'll post some others when I can get decent pictures together.004.jpg
The first one is my front motor mount. The downtube is wrapped in some neoprene-like material. Over that, top and bottom, is some 1/2 by 1/8 steel. The muffler clamps clamp over this. I think that I've got any stresses involved spread over that down tube quite well. You need to drill through the 'crowns' of the muffler clamps in order to put a 1/2 x 1/8 steel bridge (actually I think mine is more like 3/4 x 1/8) between them. Another bridge between the two motor studs of the same material. Bolt these two bridges together, and you've got a motor mount. WARNING; don't make my mistake. This needs to be bolted by more than one bolt. Otherwise the engine will tip. How could I be so dumb? I got mine solid by doing a bit of wedging. And I'll know better on the next one I make. Those bridges will likely be made out of 1x1/8 and bolted with three of four nuts and bolts. 006.jpg
The next photo is my rear cargo rack. It's a very ordinary rear rack of the $25 or so variety, painted to match the bike. I added a rectangular cargo platform made out of 1/2 x 1/8 steel strips, bolted through the rack. Also bolt on a couple of loops of lashing strap material. Add a couple of lashing straps, through these loops, and you have a cargo platform that'll hold a good sized duffel bag without the danger of it's sliding over and then down into the wheel.
Red Permatex seems to make a fine gasket material. You do not want to trust the gaskets that come with china girl engines. The elements'll get in sooner or later.010.jpg
Something else that I've found useful; put the chain tensioner on the other chain. The photos are probably good enough to see it clearly. You make your engine drive chain just long enough that you can tension it just right by moving the axle back and forth in the dropouts. You make the pedal chain long enough to give you the space you need and then you take up that slack with the tensioner. You can see that it mounts upside down in this case. Now the only time my tensioner undergoes any stress at all is while braking with the coaster brake. And I'm sure that it's more than stout enough for that task.009.jpg