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Motorized Bicycle General Discussion All topics regarding bicycles with engines.

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  #551  
Old 11-13-2011, 06:49 PM
vincent713 vincent713 is offline
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Default Re: Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

My question is are there alot of resistance pedaling while the engine is off with a jack shift?
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  #552  
Old 11-13-2011, 08:38 PM
5-7HEAVEN 5-7HEAVEN is offline
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Default Re: Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

Very little resistance from the extra chainring sprocket, chain, gearbox sprocket thru the gearbox and the floating centrifugal clutch bell.

With the rear wheel off the ground, you can easily pedal with your hand.
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  #553  
Old 11-13-2011, 10:58 PM
vincent713 vincent713 is offline
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Default Re: Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

That's pretty sweet, sounds like it has less resistance then with non jack shift set up.
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  #554  
Old 11-14-2011, 12:15 AM
5-7HEAVEN 5-7HEAVEN is offline
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Default Re: Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

Sweet, but pedal-assisting won't help much, if at all.
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  #555  
Old 11-26-2011, 02:25 PM
5-7HEAVEN 5-7HEAVEN is offline
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I don't like mixing and storing 2-stroke fuel @ home. If I had a house, I might not mind, but I don't.

Sooo, I fill up @ the pump. I keep 1 oz of Opti-2 oil in my 18oz aluminum fuel bottle in its cage. When the fuel level in my 4-liter Happy Time tank drops below the "bumps" @ the tank's bottom, it's time to fill up. The petcock is closed, oil added and I pedal to the nearest station. On the way to the gas station, the Opti-2 mixes with the fuel reserve to make maybe 8:1 fuel/oil ratio. When I add 3 quarts, it dilutes to 100:1. Gas is pumped quickly, so that the sloshing helps mix the fuel. Then I pedal for a block for more fuel sloshing, open the petcock and start the engine. I have been doing this for months, with no adverse effects to the engine. Spark plug color is chocolate brown.

NEVER! forget to shut the petcock before adding oil in the tank. Oil will quickly reach the carburetor and foul the engine. The bike would have to be turned upside down to drain the bad mix back to the tank. Once there, the fuel/oil ratio is unknown/less than correct, so the tank has to be drained and refilled.

Ask me how I know this! lol

Since 1 oz is very little, I'm devising a way to attach a tiny oil reserve tank to the HT 4-liter fuel tank. Then I can get rid of the 18oz fuel bottle
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  #556  
Old 11-29-2011, 12:05 AM
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Rocky_Motor Rocky_Motor is offline
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Default Re: Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

I just got a few parts in anticipation for my engine kit. From sick bike parts I got an engine hardware kit (a bunch of nuts and bolts to replace the crappy chinese ones I hear about. I got an exhaust gasket and a fuel filter as well. I didn't get a head gasket because there are two different sizes and I'm not sure what size mine is yet. All I think I need after that is find some lock tight and grease to lubricate things.

With locktight, do you end up making it impossible to remove what has been lock tighted? Say if I wanted to rebuild the motor or adjust this or that.
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  #557  
Old 11-29-2011, 12:50 AM
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dakota47l1 dakota47l1 is offline
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Default Re: Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky_Motor View Post
I just got a few parts in anticipation for my engine kit. From sick bike parts I got an engine hardware kit (a bunch of nuts and bolts to replace the crappy chinese ones I hear about. I got an exhaust gasket and a fuel filter as well. I didn't get a head gasket because there are two different sizes and I'm not sure what size mine is yet. All I think I need after that is find some lock tight and grease to lubricate things.

With locktight, do you end up making it impossible to remove what has been lock tighted? Say if I wanted to rebuild the motor or adjust this or that.
use the blue locktight and you will be ok...DON'T and i repeat DON'T! use the red!!!
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  #558  
Old 11-29-2011, 01:03 AM
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Rocky_Motor Rocky_Motor is offline
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Default Re: Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

I was just going to get something from home depot along with lithium grease this friday.

8 fl. oz. Heavy Duty Job Size Epoxy-1365736 at The Home Depot

Where can I get blue locktight?

Edit: nvm I found the blue stuff on amazon, I'll just order it there.

Last edited by Rocky_Motor; 11-29-2011 at 01:13 AM.
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  #559  
Old 11-29-2011, 07:15 AM
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rustycase rustycase is offline
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Default Re: Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

Rocky, glad to see you have passed on the A-B epoxy product ! Whew!
...THAT was certainly NOT what you wanted to use! :-)

LocTite and Permatex both make thread adhesive products. Don't you have a NAPA auto parts house there in Ft Collins?
I use online vendors frequently, but a good, local auto parts counter person can be very helpful when in doubt about things.

As a rule, I advise against taking something apart that is running well.
Not good to mess with things that are working!
Dis-assembly can strip threads, especially with steel bolts in aluminum cases.

We are battling significant quality control issues here, that may become more apparent when you go taking things apart.

For example: If tolerances were shabby when a cylinder bolt was, perhaps, over-torqued in the initial factory build, it would hold forever, for the useful life of the engine... and never cause a problem other than maybe stretching, and requiring a re-torque of the cylinder head nuts in use on the top end of that stud. The problem 'could' arise when removing that stud from the case.
There are poor engineering practices with many of these chinagirl engines... the metallurgy is suspect, and many drilled/tapped holes are 'very' close to the edge of the case making repair very difficult.

What I'm saying, in short, is to be cautious when dis-assembling the engine so problems are not created where there were none evident before.

I don't personally use thread locker products very often, unless a problem has occurred with a particular engine.
I do use anti-seize thread compounds frequently, especially when working with aluminum components.

As advised elsewhere, a 3/8 drive inch/lbs/nm torque wrench is a good idea, especially since they can be purchased inexpensively.

Good luck
rc
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  #560  
Old 11-29-2011, 10:24 AM
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Rocky_Motor Rocky_Motor is offline
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Gosh, these engines make me nervous! I'm really just hoping that I can get a year or two out of it (2000 miles or more hopefully) Simply so that I can get into the hobby without being majorly demotivated by things not working. After I have things going and it gets warmer, I am definitely planning on upgrading the engine to something that is not a C.G. motor as well as getting a shift kit.

I'll look at picking up that torque wrench. I've definately been wanting to buy one to do some preventative maintenance on my car. I just love doing mechanic things!


So I got some rubber to put in the frame mounts in my bike. My idea behind that is to prevent the aluminum frame from being damaged and also reducing vibration. It was a foot^2 sheet, 1/4" thick. Says it is good up to 250farenheit and abrasion resistant, as well as oil/gas resistant (I guess from erosion from the acidic content). Sounds good to me!
I can't decide if I should put the engine on the 2005 avalanche 2.0 (I plan on buying it today either for riding as a bike or using the motor on) or my old schwinn which it may not fit into. The problem with the avalanche is I think that it has one of those weird down tubes that is kindu flat and wide. Not the usual round tube. Also has a rear disc brake but that's fine I'll get a V-brake till I get the shift kit in the spring time.

Aah fun times just wish I had a warmer place to work on it. Cursed dorm rooms and colorado winter. Maybe if it doesn't stink a car up to bad I could bring it down to my house during the weekend to work on it in the garage.
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