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Motorized Bicycle General Discussion All topics regarding bicycles with engines.

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  #521  
Old 10-14-2011, 06:03 AM
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Last edited by The_Aleman; 03-14-2015 at 07:49 AM.
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  #522  
Old 10-14-2011, 08:32 AM
sputterputtBAM sputterputtBAM is offline
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Originally Posted by vincent713
Where can I find those fix a flat for bicycles? The ones at Walmart "slime" are for before you ride to prevent from having a flat. I want one that can fix a flat when I'm 10 miles away from home. I have a fear of getting a flat tire out on the road more than having engine issues. I can at least pedal home if it's an engine problem. I'm stuck like chuck with a flat tire

You can push, I initially thought I'd ride on a rear flat, carefully of course. The wheel already had a little annoying egg shape, but handling was real squirrly ao I pushed a mile.
Catch a bus, Allegheney County Port Authority ( our bus service ) has bike racks now on all there busses now, ....after drastically cutting service to reduce losses. Cant really celebrate that.

I'd go with thick tube and kevlar liner. Slime will be a MESS when u get a flat. I had some slime tubes, mustve gotten old maybe but they leaked an oily mess so the tube couldnt be patched.

Last edited by sputterputtBAM; 10-14-2011 at 08:35 AM.
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  #523  
Old 10-14-2011, 10:36 AM
vincent713 vincent713 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuctTapedGoat View Post
Walmart - it looks like a can of fixaflat, but as big as a little Red Bull drink.

Ultra Bike Tire Sealer and Inflater 4.96
Wow awesome! I'll have to go and check that out, thanks!
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  #524  
Old 10-14-2011, 11:34 AM
vincent713 vincent713 is offline
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Originally Posted by CTripps View Post
Here's something I figured out as I was going at it... a long twist tie is a great thing for helping to thread the chain through the motor.. tie it firmly to the first link an feed the tie through where the drive sprocket is. When it comes out you can pull (gently) on it as you try to rotate the drive sprocket to pull the chain through. With a loop in the free end you can slide a screwdriver through the tie to pull on. The same twist tie is also great for helping pull the chain together (and hold it together) to find out where to break the chain and in keeping the ends close when putting in a master link.
I keep a few long ties stuffed in the tool kit in case I have to reconnect the chain away from the garage, or ever have to tie down a cable or anything.
I've also found a twist tie is great for holding the extra length of the clutch cable against the clutch arm so it doesn't stab me in the leg with every pass.
Check the garden section of your local hardware etc store for the gardening wire-tie that comes as a coil for tying up your plants. Handy stuff for a couple of bucks.
You could also use the "spark plug" tool that came with the kit. It fits the drive sprocket bolt so insert the chain and use a screwdriver to turn the sprocket.
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  #525  
Old 10-14-2011, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vincent713 View Post
You could also use the "spark plug" tool that came with the kit. It fits the drive sprocket bolt so insert the chain and use a screwdriver to turn the sprocket.
I haven't tried that yet, I'll give it a look next build. With both the ones I've built so far I haven't taken the cover off that side while threading the chain into place. That alone would probably make the job a bit easier. Thanks for the idea.
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  #526  
Old 10-21-2011, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Norman View Post
Guys
When you first get your engine take the time to make good gaskets use the kits gasket as a pattern and use your home made ones. mostly the side covers,intake and exhaust will be the ones to make here's an example.

I went to Advanced auto and asked the guy working to point me to the direction of the cork style gasket material he asked me what it was for I said I'm using it on my intake manifold and my exhaust manifold. You can not use it on your exhaust manifold .I said OK what ever you say Then the guy says I'm not selling this to you.and takes it back . So the next day I sent my fiance in to get the same stuff I could have easily went to Auto zone but this was personal. So he asked her whats it for she said what? What are you using it for, she said to be honest it isn't any of your business what I'm using it for. Keep in mind this guy is just plain rude we are not rude folks but the way this guy asks "What are you using it on"? If Id a seen the problems coming I'd have said I ran out of cheese , & given him the Mel Gibson Crazy look from L.W.1
P.S. been using the same gasket for almost 200 miles now, and Ive had it pretty hot a few times no issues what so ever.

Last edited by Jumpa; 10-21-2011 at 09:23 PM. Reason: to long
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  #527  
Old 10-21-2011, 10:52 AM
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I would contact advanced auto and let them know that they lost a sale because your use of a gasket material did not agree with the sales man and the sales man refused the sale.
It really does not matter what you use the gasket material for. The sales man is there to help you find what you want/ need, not police the products.
He could have said " I do not recommend this product for that application" and sell it to you anyways, but to refuse a sale is ludicrous! Advanced auto wants to sell things, not employ morons that limit their ability to sell things.
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  #528  
Old 10-21-2011, 11:10 AM
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Ok being the penny pinching person I am I came up with a way to dampen the sound similar to the external plastic things Ive seen on various sites. I took an old mouse pad and traced out the diagram of the clutch cover then I cut it out leaving the line I traced + about a 1/2" or material to leave room for the screw holes . I then super glued it onto the cover and away you go . Heat doesn't seem to be an issue & If it did I was planning on cutting out the same pattern on gasket sheet using that as a heat barrier between the mouse pad and the cover but that step wasn't necessary in this particular application . The difference in sound is immediately noticeable & there is a lot more smiling faces in the neighborhood than usual


My cutting wasn't very precise on this one Just a quick "how to" on a spare cover

Last edited by Jumpa; 10-21-2011 at 08:15 PM.
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  #529  
Old 10-21-2011, 11:09 PM
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Problem:

When i pedal and pop the clutch to start the engine, the back wheel doesn't lock up like it use to. like, when i move the bike slowly with the clutch lever pulled in, the back wheel moves freely, but when i let go(the back wheel USE to lock up(im guessing thats proper working condition cause that always worked for me)) the wheel will semi-lock up but will still spin rather easy. i think it has something to do with the clutch, i've tried re-adjusting the clutch cable and arm but to no avail. If no-one can help me with this, im prolly gonna end up scrappin my engine out
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  #530  
Old 10-21-2011, 11:55 PM
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It sounds like the flower nut needs to be adjusted.
Also be positive that there is no oil or grease residue anywhere in the clutch assembly. Outer plate, friction pads, inner plate, ect.
If the friction pads are not worn out you can also adjust the internal clutch spring to apply more pressure to the pads when the clutch is engaged (hand lever released).

Readjusting the cable and arm is only "the tip if the iceberg" concerning what you can do with these clutches.
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Does not come with a fortune cookie."
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