I'm a newbie. Learing about broken spokes and chains.

jimmypodunk · #1 08-01-2009, 06:15 PM

Was having fun with the first 20 miles. I noticed the chain was loosening up so I tightened the idler. Things just went down hill from there. I tried to run it without an idler after replacing the wheel but I only got 7 miles with that setup. I think my spokes are just too thin for one thing. I think a spring loaded idler would be better. I did get her to go 32.5 mph on a 44 tooth sprocket and I weigh 225 lbs. Looking for a better spoke setup up. Is an "HD-105" an 11 gauge spoke? I'm thinking I want at least a 12 gauge spoke. Money is tight but hoping to get back on the road again. I'm wondering what farthest distance someone has gone in one day with breakage on these things.

Saddletramp1200 · #2 08-01-2009, 06:32 PM

Hi Jimmy, and welcome to THE Forum. Break in is best if you ride about 10, minutes. then check your bike. Another 20 min, and let it cool off, 10 minutes. You wont be sorry

**2door** · #3 08-01-2009, 09:24 PM

Jimmy,
What is breaking? It can't be stressed enough the importance of sprocket/chain alignment. The rear sprocket installation is exteremly important. It must run true and have no wobbles either side to side or up/down. If everything in the drive is aligned and runs without misalignment then the troubles with the chain are eliminated. The tensioner wheel must run parallel to the chain and not trying to pull it to either side. Most of the kit supplied tensioner wheel brackets require a slight twist to get the wheel to run true to the chain. Chain tension is also important. Shoot for a maximum of 1" and a minimum of 1/2" slack measured at the loosest area of the chain. The tensioner bracket should be secured to the frame so it can not loosen and rotate into the spokes. Some use a self tapping screw and others drill completely through the bracket and bike frame and install a screw and nut. Which ever you choose securing the bracket is an all important step and an item not covered in any installatiion manual I've seen. The bolts WILL NOT keep it in place. Some will tell you to run without a chain tensioner but I strongly advise againt it. The tensioner wheel helps guide the chain onto the rear sprocket and helps with any misalignment you might have. Use it but secure it so it can not move. As for the chain loosening; the kit supplied chains are notorious for premature wear (stretching) and require several adjustments during the early stages. Eventually it will settle in and should give you good service. Many of us replace the kit chain with #41 industrial chain available at Ace Hardware, Tractor Supply and other industrial supply outlets. Good luck, keep us posted.
Tom

Tom

Saddletramp1200 · #4 08-02-2009, 07:53 PM

The idler wheel is very important. I don't care for the thought of drilling a hole in such an important part of the frame. A GOOD welder can tack the mount to the frame, and a little touch up paint will hide the weld, but make sure it's right first! Can't be moved after it's done.

Cabinfever1977 · #5 08-03-2009, 07:14 PM

i layed a bolt flat behind the bottom of my tensioner and used a hose clamp i each side of the bolt to hold tight to frame,this bolt keeps my tensioner from moving. i didnt have to drill nothing. the tensioner does not move even if i try to move it with my hand.

this part of my frame is too small to drill even a small hole without the frame splitting in half.

weekend-fun · #6 08-04-2009, 09:19 AM

I would listin to cabin, and welcome