Paused for help before I screw something up

If you don't even know how to take the jug off without damaging it, what makes you think that you will know how to polish up the insides without doing damage??? (& what makes you think that it even needs it??)
My advice to you is to just run it like it is & don't mess with it.
You're probably gonna do more damage to it than good, & end up with a engine that breaks down a lot sooner than if you just left it alone.
Your first sentence of "before I do irreperable damage to a perfectly good new engine...", should be thought about very carefully before you mess with it!!

I'm sorry, I didn't mean to hurt your feelings...
It's just that when someone named 'Homeless Bob from Louisiana' asks a bunch of losers on a motorbike board how to take the jug off of the simplest engine on earth, the last thing I'm gonna think is that he's a aircraft mechanic!

I still find it very hard to believe that someone who claims to be a aircraft mechanic would ask a question like "Since it's never been run, do I need to change the rings when I pull the piston?"
It seems to me that any mechanic of moderate training would know better.

That's where I'm coming from... Again, sorry for hurting your feelings.
~Norm

you don't have to replace the rings unless you mess one up. i've had my motor apart a few times, and it's still going strong. just make sure you align the rings with the "keepers" on the piston. easy enough.

you can squeeze the rings by hand to put the jug back on. just take it slow, don't force anything, and it should be fine.

the transfer ports need the most clean-up. port-match those with the case, and get inside as much as you can. the case has a lot of metal on it, so you don't have to worry about going too far and grinding away too much.

the intake and exhaust ports, from my experience, usually need a light filing to de-burr the openings at the cylinder side. not much else you need to do.

check the head also, since you have it off. sometimes the threads for the plug can be sharp. one of my motors, i took the head off (before running it) and there was a fingernail clipping sized chunk of metal that broke off the threads and was just waiting to do some damage.

when re-assembling, i pour a little 2stroke oil in the case and work the rod around, then after putting the jug back on, i put a capful of oil on top of the piston, too.

as far as torque specs, i use a small 10mm wrench and tighten it up till i know it's not gonna go anymore. y'know, it's that "feel" you get when you know to stop.

after the first run, while the motor's still warm, i go back over the head bolts with the wrench, and "check" them for tightness. if they don't wanna turn, i don't force them.

good luck.

I torque mine between 12-15ft.lbs

And I always torque at least three times like 5 first then 10 then 15 in a cross pattern

I can recommend changing your head stud's if you intend to go anywhere near the recommended torque. I have snapped a 6mm chinese stud at 4 ft/pds. I had read that i needed to torque to 12ft/pds. I'm sure the 8mm studs are a bit stronger.
When putting the jug back on pay close attention to the little lugs where the gaps on the rings goes, very easy to snap a ring if you ignore them.

hope this help's, i'm not a mechanic just learning as i break stuff.

i go to specialty fastener stores like McFadden-Dale or Fastenal.

I changed out every bolt (including all the carb bolts, and the different sizes i needed for custom motor mounts, intake and exhaust bolts, everything...) with grade 8 allen head socket caps.

bought enough to do 3 motors, plus extra bolts for fenders, chaingaurds, etc, for under 15 bucks at McFadden-Dale.

and don't get stainless steel. it eats aluminum and it's brittle.