I am wondering what type of engine should i get to replace my chinese motor? I'm trying to get one that doesn't break down so fast. The one i currently have which doesn't work is H2-80 Slant. 2-Stroke 80/66cc. Also where to find only the MOTOR, not the kit.
Replacement engine
- Thread starter wingedpotatos
- Start date
Maybe we can help with your current engine. What specifically is the problems you've been having?
As for replacing; You'll find that most of the available Chinese 2 stroke engines are the same. The real issue is your seller and what kind of after sale support/guarnatee they offer. Give us some details of your problems and we'll try to help. If you're set on replacing take a look through our sponsors listed down both sides of this page. They've all proven basically to be reliable people to deal with.
Tom
As for replacing; You'll find that most of the available Chinese 2 stroke engines are the same. The real issue is your seller and what kind of after sale support/guarnatee they offer. Give us some details of your problems and we'll try to help. If you're set on replacing take a look through our sponsors listed down both sides of this page. They've all proven basically to be reliable people to deal with.
Tom
Basically, the engine stopped working when it was going through its break-in. Everything is installed correctly, no leaks or cracks. I bought a new NGK spark plug but that didn't solve the probelm. The engine isn't starting up as it use to, so i thought the spark would be the problem. The engine isn't flooded with fuel. I'm not sure if its the motor, CDI, or motor rotor. Spark plug is checked off.
An engine needs three things to run; fuel, ignition source (spark) and air. Let's start with fuel. What ratio mix are you using and what oil? A 24:1 mix is a good starting point. Pay no attention to the 16:1 recommended by some manufacturers. After a few tanks move down to 32:1. Now, is fuel flowing to the carburetor? Prove it by removing the fuel line from the carb, open the petcock and see if you get a stream of fuel from the tank. Even a very small stream is sufficient. If it is only dripping out or no fuel is flowing look for a clogged petcock/filter. If you have fuel flow let's move on to ignition. Pull the plug from the head, attach the plug wire, hold wrench flats of the plug firmly against the cylinder head fins and either lift the rear wheel or suspend the bike so you can pedal or spin the rear wheel with the clutch engaged. You should have a decent spark at the plug's electrodes. If no spark take a good look at your wiring. If you're using the kit supplied, plug-in type wire connectors get rid of them, solder the wires together and insulate them with heat shrink tubing. Make sure the white wire is not grounding against anything. Many have had problems with the kill switch (button) some of them are bad from the factory, some fail quickly. If you have an ohm meter you can check the switch, it should show an open circuit unless you push the button. Quicker is to just remove the kill switch wires until later. Wire the blue to blue and black to black and assure of good connections at that splice. Also check your plug gap. Shoot for .024 to .028 for a starting point. We've covered fuel and spark, lets move to air. The choke lever is off (open) when its down and on (closed) when it is up. It needs to be down or only partially closed to start the engine. Some need no choke at all, and some like lots of choke until they warm a little. The engine needs air but if it gets too much it will be hard to start and run poorly. Make sure you have no air (vacuum) leaks at the intake manifold or where the carburetor attaches. Seal these two places well with a good gasoline resistant sealant. Try these suggestions and get back to us with what you find. Getting your engine running will make you happier and be cheaper than replacing it. Good luck.
Tom
Tom
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Lots of good information there, 2door. Wingedpotatoes, this guy knows what he's talking about. Unless the engine is frozen from having no oil, you're going to get it going. Patience. Welcome to the forum! One day you'll be helping somebody get their motor started from what you're learning right now. There was a time long, long ago (ha!) when 2door didn't know about motors either. We all learn and good teachers make it easier.
SB
SB
Bear,
That was..."a long time ago". I don't even like to think about how long. It gives me chills.
Tom
That was..."a long time ago". I don't even like to think about how long. It gives me chills.
Tom
"Pull the plug from the head, attach the plug wire, hold wrench flats of the plug firmly against the cylinder head fins and either lift the rear wheel or suspend the bike so you can pedal or spin the rear wheel with the clutch engaged." -2Door
I'm not to good with vocabulary but i'm starting to learn alot. The fuel flow seems to be going to the carburetor and the engine without flooding which is okay, i'm running it at a 32:1 gas/oil mixture (i'll change it to 26:1 after i run through this gas tank). I'm just not sure about how to check the spark even scrimmaging through these forms. Sorry but could you make it clearer for someone like me?
-Curious nerd
I'm not to good with vocabulary but i'm starting to learn alot. The fuel flow seems to be going to the carburetor and the engine without flooding which is okay, i'm running it at a 32:1 gas/oil mixture (i'll change it to 26:1 after i run through this gas tank). I'm just not sure about how to check the spark even scrimmaging through these forms. Sorry but could you make it clearer for someone like me?
-Curious nerd
Maybe Tom will explain it better since he is a mechanic and I am not, but you want to remove the spark plug from the engine. You'll notice on the sides of the spark plug there are flat spots where the spark plug wrench fits against. That's what Tom is referring to as "flats". You hook up the spark plug to the spark plug wire as if the spark plug was still in the engine (but it isn't, it is in your hand). Tom said to place the "flats" (one of them, any one of them) against the engine... he suggested the cooling fins at the top of the engine where you removed the spark plug... that part of the motor. The idea is you want to make an electrical connection between the motor and that part of the spark plug (just as it would when the spark plug is installed in the motor). So that's the ground wire part of the circuit. When you normally run the motor and are putting along and everything is as it should be the engine has a magneto which acts kind of like a generator or alternator in a car engine... that magneto produces an electrical current with every revolution of the motor. The current of electricity goes to the little CDI unit, that black box with the blue wire and the black wire which you have connected to the blue wire and black wire from the engine. The other wire, the big one is connected to the spark plug. The little CDI box condenses the eloectricity coming from the magneto and gives it more power... so that powerful little spark travels through the spark plug wire and every time the engine goes around shoots a spark out the end, called the electrode. That is what we're trying to find out... if the spark is really there and if is is very weak or nice and strong. When the spark plug is in the engine we can't see the electrode since it is down there in the engine ready to set off an explosion once every time the engine goes around. It is like there is a little room and there is both some oxygen and some fuel mixed together... and somebody lights a match... boom! That match is the electrode. Pretty cool whoever thought up the internal combustion engine. Smart! So, we have the spark plug out where we can see what is going on. Tom suggested different ways to have that motor turn over so the engine can make the magneto produce electricity... you could push the bike and walk along a bit (awkward) or use one of Tom's suggestions... but we have to make the engine go around. The outside of the sparkplug is against the engine (grounded) and you are watching to see if there is a spark coming out the electrode. No spark... then no explosion in the cylinder or as we commonly say, "no fire". That then is the problem and we go from there in figuring out why there is no spark... could be the plug, the plug wire, the CDI unit, or the magneto... but if it has a nice spark then we know all of those things are doing what they are supposed to and the problem is not electrical. I was a teacher once upon a time long ago and I'm explaining this as simply as I know how. If it sounds like I'm talking down to you, please forgive me. Because this is cyberspace I don't know if you are fifty years old or eleven, if English is your first language or if your first language is something else. If it is still not clear to you, keep asking. As Tom said... three things are required for the engine to start... fuel, air and fire. We're going to get this baby going!
SB
SB
Silver B:
No way could I have explained it better or more clear.
Potatos: please get back to us with what you find. We want you riding again soon.
Tom
No way could I have explained it better or more clear.
Potatos: please get back to us with what you find. We want you riding again soon.
Tom
That was so descriptive, i'm not a mechanic but this could save me alot of bucks. Its night time so i'll test it out tomorrow morning. Thanks for breaking down everything i needed to know.
-Curious Nerd
