Re: Silverbell Artifacts
My metal detector I know was cheap, but as you say it should work. While I don't remember if the head phone jack had not worked from the beginning and I was then resorting to just using the speaker built in an the display, I did take it apart to fix something else.
There are two 9v transistor batteries it uses, and I had one of clips to the connector wire pull out. I opened up the case with great difficulty and had found that the two battery wires for the 9 volt batteries do go in parallel to the same plus and minus connections on the board.
OK the batteries I found with a meter showing while the unit is off one is draining to the other to charge it in the amount of 50 micro amps. I should not care and I suppose it is just as it needs more current at 9v to run the back lit display you can turn on real bright or off all together.
Battery connector being fixed I noticed a donut hole for the circuit board with a wire coming through it and no solder. Oops, it got QC stamp passed anyway. So this is why occasionally I am zoning in on what is either ferrous or the other non-ferrous material and then the needle points to either and then in between being all erratic.
It still only starts to lock on to something of metal material when no greater than 2 to 3 inches, but if that erratic is gone from an non-soldered connector that will be great.
As for the speaker jack it is all potted over with plastic glue and so I will re-route the wires to an in-line jack I got cheap from Radio Shack closing their store. The ground of the three wires to the dual channel head phone connection measured open.
I would try to get to the connections and the solder again to see, but the potted over wires are not worth the effort. Also as I was stripping the shielding off the battery's wires to redo the connector clip, I thought I had ripped the inside wires and not just insulation. Nope the savings for a cheap wire used must be the way it goes now. I noticed my cheap battery holders on my rc models having the same $&*. I had to use not just my glasses, but a magnifier to see what I was going to twist to the wire I was using and solder and heat shrink up.
MT
http://www.amazon.com/Prospector-Ca...p/B001K2C16S/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
I forget if I got it from Amazon or elsewhere, but it says Orbitor Prospector 200DR and I think all I paid was about 30 to 50 for it.
My metal detector I know was cheap, but as you say it should work. While I don't remember if the head phone jack had not worked from the beginning and I was then resorting to just using the speaker built in an the display, I did take it apart to fix something else.
There are two 9v transistor batteries it uses, and I had one of clips to the connector wire pull out. I opened up the case with great difficulty and had found that the two battery wires for the 9 volt batteries do go in parallel to the same plus and minus connections on the board.
OK the batteries I found with a meter showing while the unit is off one is draining to the other to charge it in the amount of 50 micro amps. I should not care and I suppose it is just as it needs more current at 9v to run the back lit display you can turn on real bright or off all together.
Battery connector being fixed I noticed a donut hole for the circuit board with a wire coming through it and no solder. Oops, it got QC stamp passed anyway. So this is why occasionally I am zoning in on what is either ferrous or the other non-ferrous material and then the needle points to either and then in between being all erratic.
It still only starts to lock on to something of metal material when no greater than 2 to 3 inches, but if that erratic is gone from an non-soldered connector that will be great.
As for the speaker jack it is all potted over with plastic glue and so I will re-route the wires to an in-line jack I got cheap from Radio Shack closing their store. The ground of the three wires to the dual channel head phone connection measured open.
I would try to get to the connections and the solder again to see, but the potted over wires are not worth the effort. Also as I was stripping the shielding off the battery's wires to redo the connector clip, I thought I had ripped the inside wires and not just insulation. Nope the savings for a cheap wire used must be the way it goes now. I noticed my cheap battery holders on my rc models having the same $&*. I had to use not just my glasses, but a magnifier to see what I was going to twist to the wire I was using and solder and heat shrink up.
MT
http://www.amazon.com/Prospector-Ca...p/B001K2C16S/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
I forget if I got it from Amazon or elsewhere, but it says Orbitor Prospector 200DR and I think all I paid was about 30 to 50 for it.
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