4-stroke jackshafted 7-speed silver Electra

GoldenMotor.com

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
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Phoenix,AZ
I don't know how I get myself into really hard builds but I seem to do it often.
This one looked simple enough, a nice big cavity on a solid bike but the cavity proved to be too big for a SBP JS kit.

I couldn't use any of stock holes in the base plate so I had to drill all new holes and motor mount slots plus extend the front mount plus raise the motor up with spacers but it came out OK I think.





When you know how to use the gears she really flies.
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
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Phoenix,AZ
I agree, I love a front shock but that is the customers call but the dual V's do a great job of stopping it.
 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,505
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Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
Now if you could just stuff that peanut tank between the top tube and the cantilevers............:D

Imagine the bike with an in-frame tank and some lower profile bars........

dnut
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
Now if you could just stuff that peanut tank between the top tube and the cantilevers............:D
Imagine the bike with an in-frame tank and some lower profile bars........
dnut
Ya, that bike frame would look great with a tank in there and by the size you could easily get a gallon in there.

What would be cool is if you could buy a plastic bladder you could fit in an area like that, inflate it to the shape you want, punch in your filler and petcock where you want, the spray something on it to solidify it.

There may very well me something like now but it would most likely cost as much as the bike hehehe ;-}
 

Sidewinder Jerry

Well-Known Member
Dec 19, 2011
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Rockwood, TN
KC consider a 34 chainring driving an 8 speed 34-11 cassette or freewheel. It'll give you an extreme ratio range within 8 gears. If using a freewheel you'd have to get a DNP freewheel.
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
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Phoenix,AZ
Thanks for the Kudos guys, I try to build everything in a way I am proud to take a picture of and ride.
KC consider a 34 chainring driving an 8 speed 34-11 cassette or freewheel. It'll give you an extreme ratio range within 8 gears. If using a freewheel you'd have to get a DNP freewheel.
I have to disagree with 'more gears', especially when it comes to mufti-sprocket drives. When it comes to gears in my experience there is such a thing as too many with a motor, even a low powered one, and with more rear sprockets you have to use the thinner chain, not good with motor power.

Give me an internal 3 or 5 speed hub and I can use good thick fat chain and not make my hand tired shifting which I don't, I usually just skip a couple gears every time with derailleurs.
The rub is you can't really find a good bike with an internal hub with disc or even V-brakes so I get a bike with them on a 7-speed and then just change back wheel, just not in this case.

Drewed, I have had good luck with the improved 4G transfer case since they enclosed the clutch so it didn't rely on the outside cover mount to keep it in place.
As far as mods go, as I posted ya a boatload of work to drill new motor mount holes but the transfer case was not a factor and bolted right up.
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
The 7-speed derailleur broke on this build so I directed the customer to let me drop a SA XL-RD3 3-speed internal with a band brake in his wheel.

What a huge difference in everything.
Quiet, smooth shifting, no vibration, it's just a flat joy to ride.





I do NOT however like the aluminum frame stay drop-outs of the bike.
The keyed, tabbed locking washers on each side just won't stop the right side from just munching the aluminum dropout and moving forward with the motor torque.

I ended up drilling the right side shift arm and chain stay then tapping the chain stay for a clutch cover bolt to help keep the axle in place.
One of those semi-concave washers you put on caliper brake mounts worked perfect between the shift mech arm and tube.



Too much involved to tighten the drive chain with the back wheel so I put a tensioner in for when that new HD 310 Z chain wears in some more.

I love builds like this ;-}
 
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KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
One other note, the dual V brakes are attached to a SBP dual pull lever on the right, the rear hub band brake on the left lever.
In short, she stops in a hurry if you need it to ;-}
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
Thanks guys. I was just looking at those pics wondering why it looked so cluttered, it's all the stuff he put on like his second light pointing down, the wire for first one all loose and the bicycle lock chain around the seat,

Ya gizzle, a steel frame or at least steal dropouts, that aluminum was no match for the 18T hub motor driven with a 30T primary.
Actually I prefer a 36T primary for speed but the customer wanted low end torque and he sure got it.