Clutch shot?

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YoungRatRod

YoungRatRod

New Member
Oct 19, 2011
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Wichita, Kansas
So I finally got everything runnin like a top on my Frankenbike, (new springer forks, homemade ape hangers, high perf. carb 36 tooth sprocket.) the works.


well after going for a ride today, I noticed that my clutch won't engage, in turn the bike won't start. I try to push the clutch bar (For lack of a better name) in and still nothing.


Whats wrong???

and in addition, would I be better off converting to centrifugal?

I have a skyhawk 66cc
 
2door

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
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Littleton, Colorado
Maybe you have the clutch cable too tight. You want little to no slack in the cable with the clutch disengeged (handlebar lever unsqueezed) But not so tight that the clutch is partially disengeged. Loosen the cable a little and see what happens.

Tom
 
C

chrome

Member
Jan 10, 2010
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manila, philippines
I experienced the same thing yesterday....lever won't spring back, rear tire won't turn... upon checking, 1. the clutch cable popped out of the arm
2. the arm can be partially lifted/pulled from its position....
3. if you put the cable back in, it'll be ok
Try to check on those 2 things YRR, goodluck! Am not an expert here but it worked. Advice from the experienced MB'rs please?
 
2door

2door

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Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
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Littleton, Colorado
If you can lift the clutch actuator arm out of the cover you've probably lost the retaining pin that's inside. Remove the clutch actuator cover and check for the pin. It's about 3/32" in diameter. Some of them are epoxied in, some are peened in place.
Tom
 
YoungRatRod

YoungRatRod

New Member
Oct 19, 2011
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Wichita, Kansas
No the screw is there, and this is an update, now the clutch will not I believe engage?


When I pedal, its like pedaling a regular bike, with the clutch out and pulled in...

This thing is sending me to **** and back
 
W

whelan wheels

Member
Jan 9, 2009
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sudbury,ontario,canada
Have you checked the key way on the drive sproket.It could be sheard off and might need replacing. Beacuse with out it your motor might not engage at all? I had a simuler problem with my grubee gt2 motor. At first i thought it was the clutch but i had a look on the sproket drive assembly and found the sproket free spinning on the output shaft. Although i could be wrong?


xct2 cflg
 
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Texhun

Texhun

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Aug 2, 2011
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Rosebud Texas
Yes same thing happened to me. The key-way on the the crankshaft sheered in half making the clutch look like the problem if thats the case you can find out by taking off the right cover and push your bike with the clutch lever released. If the both gears turn its the key-way. and then again if its the clutch and you just want to make sure its fixed, gasbike has a clutch rebuild kit for cheap, that's what I would do. Keep trying YRR don't give up on it. Atleast not yet.
 
GearNut

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
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San Diego, Kaliforgnia
The centrifugal clutch needs a good stock clutch to work, at least a stock clutch that will act "locked up" in order to transfer power to the output sprocket.

I agree with the suggestions of the other folks in this thread, check out the gears and the sprocket to be sure that one of them is not slipping on it's shaft. If the gear/ sprocket retaining nut/ screw came loose it would allow enough unwanted movement in the assembly to shear the woodruff key over time.
 
Ibedayank

Ibedayank

New Member
Oct 29, 2011
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Columbia Tennessee
pull the cover with your lever with the clutch

undo the big nut on the gear

use puller that came with your kit

there should be a little halfmoon shaped chunk of metal half the size of a dime holding the sprocket from just spinning on the shaft... if it just spins you sheared/broke that key
 
Texhun

Texhun

New Member
Aug 2, 2011
322
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Rosebud Texas
Yes, like we said already, check that key-way. And as for the centrifugal clutch, I got one for a previous engine and dude believe me it's not worth the trouble. The parts they sent where not sized right and if you don't have steel lathe you can forget about puting the parts on. Lucky for me I've got an assortment of dye grinders and I got it on after about 6hours of work. Then when it was on the one-way bearing it the clutch fell apart making impossible to start the engine plus I couldn't even pedal cause the added parts stuck out too far. So lucky me I was able to put the bearing back together and rode it around a little bit heres the results before the bearing fell apart a second time. Acceleration was pathetic, my top speed before at the time was 30MPH, with the centri clutch I couldn't even hit 22MPH it was horrible and the RPMS were extremely high. So I took it all the added uselessness off and Iv'e been running with the normal clutch for 2years now and couldn't be happier. So believe me from literally after putting a months worth of hours if not more into these engines I can tell the standard clutch is the best.
 
Andybm514

Andybm514

New Member
Jun 18, 2011
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Wilmington, nc
could it be that your clutch arm is slipping on the cam shaft threads? has the appearance of being all tight but when you apply pressure from the clutch lever it slips/strips? mines done that and ive had to order replacement cam shaft and clutch arm.
 
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