Clutch lock

you didnt put it together just right.. if you dont get it fixed THEN let me know and you could give me a call and i will verbally guide you through it.. fairly easy if you ask me..

When you adjust your clutch, don't adjust it with the lever/arm. Set the arm to the 5 o'clock to 6 o'clock position ( when looking from above while on seat ), and set your quick adjust on the handle at 1/4 - 2/3rds out.

Pull off the crankcase cover and adjust the flower nut to change the tension on the clutch plate until it is optimal.

Correct - when your clutch is locked you should be able to pedal without the clutch grabbing. Granted, you're still pedaling through the flywheel and everything, so there's SOME resistance, but not much.

There is a product called HybriPed, which uses locking pins on the sprocket. If it's just the flywheel resistance that bothers you, I'd suggest reading up on some threads about the HybriPed and see if that'd be a good solution for you.

The only thing that could be going on with your cable is stretching, which you can resolve by just tightening your cable or getting a new one.

Well, you want to adjust for two things - the first is that when you have the clutch in the locked position, the pads don't rub on the plate. The second is that when you engage the clutch, it solidly grabs the pads and doesn't slip.

Park your bike and put the clutch in the locked position. Pull the crankcase cover and adjust the plate height until you can freely roll it without resistance, then put the locking screw in and give it a quick test ride to be sure that your clutch isn't slipping. Once it's comfortable, put your cover back on and you're golden.

How cohesive are you asking for?

Step 1. Adjust your clutch's camshaft so that it is perfectly flat against the bucking bar.
Step 2. Put the clutch in the locked position.
Step 3. *with extra cohesiveness* Note the clutch plate, and the center of the clutch plate, at the center is a flower nut with a locking screw. Remove the locking screw and then you can adjust the flower nut. Turning it CW will tighten the clutch plate (decreasing height), and CCW will loosen it (increasing height). Loosen it until you can roll the bike around freely, but don't overdo it. Put the locking screw back in.
Step 4. Fire up the bike and lock the clutch. Step off the bike with the motor still running and lift the back wheel off the ground. If your back tire still moves, your clutch is too tight and needs loosened. If you can't fire up the bike because the clutch won't engage, you need to tighten your clutch plate. If you notice your clutch slipping after adjusting it, again, you need to tighten your clutch plate.

NOTE : Don't mess with the cable tension to adjust your clutch, keep the tension set so the clutch's camshaft is perfectly flat against the bucking bar and make all adjustments to the clutch plate. The only thing you should adjust the cable for is to get the camshaft flat against the bucking bar.

alright what is the bucking bar

dan+1 said:

alright what is the bucking bar

Click to expand...

Its a pin about 5/16" in diameter. It is under the clutch cover on the left side. Behind the bucking bar is a ball bearing.



One is the original and the other I made.

When you pull on the clutch lever (handle bar), the clutch arm pushes the bucking bar and will release the clutch on the right side. (disengage)

fisherman i like you clutch cable modification.

dan+1 said:

fisherman i like you clutch cable modification.

Click to expand...

Not my idea, Large Filipino idea, I capitalized on it since there was no one to supply one. He had a great idea, didn't he.

So I was having a similar issue with the clutch being stiff/ stuck, adjusted the flower nut until things turned easy, and now the bucking bar doesn't push in/ fit when I went to reinstall the cover /clutch lever. I can see the bearing thats supposed to be in there, tried giving it a couple smacks..not budging.. Any ideas?