help please

charles.paskell said:

I think that my clutch arm pivot shaft is messed up, the clutch stays engaged Ive tried adjusting the
cable and tapping on the fly wheel side of the clutch.....nothing so im thinking that I need that part
cause it has some wear on the part that contacts the bar thing inside the motor to actuate the clutch
to make a long story short i was hoping that someone could sell me the clutch control arm with the pivot shaft I need both cause i cant press the old pivot arm out off the top of the original pivot shaft.
Help please.... this is my only form of transportation
or if annyone knows how to fix this please help

Click to expand...

When you say engaged, do you mean fully or just dragging a bit? Do you have any pics of the wear that you talk about?

Pat

I notice that you only mention the clutch arm and the shaft but didn't say anything about the ball bearing that goes between the shaft and the arm. Is it missing?

Is it a new motor and stuck,,,,,the flywheel side has the little gear and the larger clutch gear w/the flower nut in the center?....waiting for pics

Hi, ok the gouging is not the problem. I've never seen the nut that holds the cable arm screwed down that far. Is the shaft sticking down thru the side cover that holds it all the way? Just put the shaft back in and look at the inside to see if the flat is down in the middle of the hole. Use a dremel with a sanding disk to smooth those marks out. If it is down far enough you should be able to push the cable arm over with your thumb and feel it engage the clutch spring. Check the flower nut adjustment on the other side too. If it still won't disengage it's probably the inner clutch spring. There are a couple good threads on adjusting it. If you do get it broken free remove the motor clutch cable mount and shove some grease in that hole. When you put it back in don't screw it in too far. It is possible to screw it in far enough to bind the clutch shaft.

I just saw that on another thread,,,the pin had worn down (bucking bar)and the clutch arm was going way too far around to work the clutch

the bar wears down shorter,and the bar and ball are4 no longer able to reach the clutch arm,,,,I think this is where I read this

http://motorbicycling.com/f3/bucking-bar-camshaft-problem-18007.html

Re: clutch bucking


Bike Motor Parts > Clutch Parts

Bucking Bar

View Larger Image
Loading...
Quantity:
Retail Price: $4.99

Sale Price: $3.00




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bicycle Motor Engine Clutch Bucking Bar Parts - Motorized Bike Clutch Bucking Bar Parts - Bike Motor Clutch Bucking Bar Parts - Motorized Bike Parts

Just a replacement part that your motor already has, without it your clutch will not work.

You remove the clutch cover and it's right in the center of the sprocket. You can just pull it out with your fingers and behind it is a ball bearing. I just keep mine greased up very well, ball bearing and shaft or bucking bar as kings and gasbike call it?
Attached Thumbnails

I wonder if its possible to just add a extra ball bearing behind the bar to extend the bar out further? Worth a try.

charles.paskell said:

That makes sense cause there is wear on the bucking bar as well i will try to replace it but it will be hard as money is tight...oodles of noodles for my one meal for the day tight.
Thank you I could not find that link anywhere thanks so much
By the way you wouldn't have a spare one of those bucking bars would you?

Click to expand...

Instead of ordering a 1" piece of bar for 6+ dollars (shipping), take the old one down to your hardware store. I paid $1 per foot of that stuff. Cut it with a dremel or hacksaw & file it down nice. Plus in order to make it fit your newly-shaped clutch arm you'll need a custom size one anyway. If you screw up the first one, who cares, you have a whole length of the stuff to work with.

I've actually cut a new one for every motor I've worked on (3 total), and every time it made the clutch SOO much easier to adjust properly. And every time they've come out completely different lengths, so I don't believe the whole "it should be EXACTLY this length" like in Norm's thread about it, nor do I believe that those $3+ dollar bars for sale online will be a perfect fit to your motor. Every motor seems different (and yea I re-do the flower nut, tighen up the cable on the clutch lever (handlebars) fully, etc to the point where they're functional but also match factory settings the best).

Cut it to whatever length you think it should be based on the old one (1mm makes a heck of a difference), and then grease the @%#! out of it and install it. Loosen your clutch arm's cable to the point where it no longer serves a purpose (hopefully your cable isn't all frayed) and the cover door should screw down without the bike going into gear. If it goes into gear, the things too long. The arm should have about 1 or 2mm play if any (basically, the ability to vibrate, not really move) and about at the ~5:30 position if looking at it from sitting on the bicycle (the spring works best when it's compressed to that point). Then try to tighten your cable to it. Hopefully you have a nice range where you can actually use that little clutch locking button by just adjusting the cable to the arm, but still be able to get into gear fully. It's a hard thing to nail the first time, so therefore get a least a foot of the stuff.