homelite super 2 build

GoldenMotor.com

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
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Thanks for thoughtful insight, deacon and shoes.

What seemed like an impossibility yesterday seems do-able now that I know where to use as attaching points. Another member suggested using the v-brake bosses and front axle as main supports. Maybe I might use a support leg for the rear of the engine, and use the front leg to raise the engine.

Here's a pannier rack I'm thinking of buying as a starting point:


Amazon.com: Delta Mega Rack Shock Treatment Bicycle Front Rack: Sports & Outdoors
 

comfortableshoes

New Member
Jul 22, 2008
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Beverly, MA USA
wow correct me if im wrong.

The top of the tubes move with the BIKE FRAME the bottom of the tubes move with the wheels. If you weld or bolt to the top of the tubes everytime the wheel bounces it will bang the engine...

If you hook to the brace on the bottom of the tube it will ride with the wheel it should move up as the wheel does. Still it is rough on the engine for sure. Thats why I switched to a solid fork for the mount,
err, isn't that what I wrote...

any of these mounts are pretty rough on the engine...
 

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
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As long as the suspension fork is installed, the ride will improve.

Mounting the engine above the suspension will interfere with my front basket.
Theoretically the bike would handle better due to less unsprung weight.

Mounting the engine below the suspension would mean a rough ride on the engine. I don't care, because the fork will improve the bike's harsh, jarring ride.
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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the top bracket on the front suspension moves with the tire, the whole bottom parts of the suspension moves with the tired.
This is what confused me. I think and I could be wrong, that the top of the front suspension moved with the frame and the bottom with the tire/wheel.
 

comfortableshoes

New Member
Jul 22, 2008
606
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Beverly, MA USA
the top bracket on the front suspension moves with the tire, the whole bottom parts of the suspension moves with the tired.
This is what confused me. I think and I could be wrong, that the top of the front suspension moved with the frame and the bottom with the tire/wheel.
what I meant was that top bracket where your brakes are mounted moves with the tire, not the top part of the suspension. I guess I didn't fully finish my though- the triple tree and top part of the suspension moves withthe bike.

I wasn't clear. sorry about that.
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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Probably my stupidity for misunderstanding. Anyway I think anyone reading will get the point. If you hook to the top of the fork your drive will get a beating from the tire movement up and down.

If you hook to the bottom if there is a brace there you will get less but that tire is still going to move alot jarring the drive.

I'm going to try a drive next where the drive isn't hooked to the drive shaft but connected with a chain. That is if I can get the sprocket onto the 42 engine.
 

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
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Whether friction or chain drive, the engine should probably be mounted onto the moving suspension part. If not, the friction roller loses contact with every upward movement and a REAL beating on the downward movement. In chain drive, the chain would slacken as the bike hit a dip, but with the proper chain length and a good tensioner, chain drive could work.

But it'd be a whole lot simpler for friction and chain drive if the engine mounted onto the bottom portion of the suspension fork.:bike2:
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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This build is going to make me crazy. I think the carb I put on the bike went bad somehow. It sucked gas just fine before but now it won't suck it up. It could be that the smaller engine has something to do with it but it won't do it. I think I switched carbs for the same reason the other one wouldn't do it either. It's crazy.

Im going to rethink it tonight then redo the carb tomorrow. Since I'm resurrecting the 42 bike I can use the carb on it. I have a ton of smaller carbs. I will just stick one fo them on the bike to see if it is the carb or the filter or something. I can suck gas from the tank through the filter if I hook the line directly to the bulb bypassing the carb so I'm pretty sure it's the carb.
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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by the by, the pull rod makes the bike a lot more stable than the cable lift. I think I'm going to have to find a way to use that instead of cables from now on.
 

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
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I REALLY like levers instead of rods. The roller lost contact with the tire when the lever loosened up on the road. I stuck a pair of pliers in there to take up the slack and it worked great. In fact, I'm gonna leave the pliers in there until I make a 1/2" spacer.

Off to the road for McD's senior citizen coffee and cinnamon melts. Then to Home Depot for $5 worth of miscellaneous hardware.
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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This is the latest incarnation of the homelite engine. I moved it to the bastardized suspension bike. I left the rear suspension but removed the front fork and traded it for a hard fork.

This is a shot with the pull rod as opposed to the cable. I haven't gotten to ride it yet but it is ready to go as soon as the rain stops and the streets dry out I'm gonna try
 

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
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Deacon, could we get a closer look at the lever assembly? I'm trying to see if there's a better leverage with greater mechanical advantage.
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
8,114
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north carolina
Next time I go down for coffee I will shoot it but it isnt really a lever..

It is a pull rod connected to the front of the bike with a loose bolt so that it changes angles. the back of the rod has a v turned sideways to catch the handlebars and lock it up.

To lower just pull it back and raise it up and the motor drops from the spring pull... To raise it just pull back and lock the v to the handle bars. No real lifting involved.
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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thats the front of it

that is the rear over the handlebars. I still have to cover the handle on top. Probably some kind of wood.

I couldn't come up with anything more simple. I'm going to try the same thing on the next rear mount I build. I think so anyway
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
8,114
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I took a few minutes and made a new gasket for the carb on this engine. I messed with it a while and finally put in a new plug with a new compression gasket. After that the engine started. I imagine it was a little of both.

I think I will give the 33 engine another shot with a new plug and gasket on it as well. Anyway the homelight engine runs and the bike should be good to go now. When the weather finally dries out.
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
8,114
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north carolina
I tried the homelite again this morning and it cranked right up. I think the compression washer on the plug was the culprit. I'm wondering now if that was the problem with the 33cc engine. I haven't distroyed it so i can check it later to see.

I might try to ride the homelite bike later today or tomorrow.