80cc bike off kijiji.

SouthernOntarioBikeDemon · Apr 22, 2012

hello everyone, im new here and found this forum very helpful when i was just a lurker, i just picked up my first motorized bicycle this past week, its an 80cc(66cc) and im not sure of what make it is, i got a pretty good deal as the guy before it only used it for 900km, apparently they are good for 10,000, anyway, this things hauls ass as it is, i was told he bored or filed out the fuel intake between the carb and the motor, but what i was really wondering is how do i go about buying a carb or exhaust for it? im currently looking at this one, any help would be appreciated, SCSD. dance1

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Performance-...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6d8297b4

motor_bike_fanatic · Apr 22, 2012

you will most likely have a lot of trouble tuning that carb. A lot of people on this forum have had trouble with it. Those who say that they are able to properly tune it claim to get a lot more speed out of their engines. Others are not able to figure out how to get it properly tuned no matter how much they mess with it. Most likely what the guy before you did was port match the intake. this would allow more air flow into the engine. You can still use a standard carb on your engine, and with the port matched intake, you will still haul ass. you most likely have a standard carb, which is branded as an NT carb or speed carb. It might say NT on the throttle slide barrel. You are better off sticking with the carb you have than spending hours or days trying to get that other carb tuned. Others will most likely tell you the same, but if you choose to get the performance carb, then good luck.

killercanuck · Apr 22, 2012

Welcome Demon! Yea the cns is known to be finicky, but if you're up for a challenge, its your call. Better do your homework though

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=30169

Like mbf mentioned, the NT carb is solid and trouble free.

The Dax RT has gotten great reviews once its jetted properly:
http://thatsdax.com/ENGINE_KIT_PARTS_PAGE_1.html (3/4 down, on right side) You'll need the RT cable too, its draw length is different than the NT.

Best of luck.

2door · Apr 22, 2012

Allow me to repeat what has been suggested. If you were fortunate enough that your engine kit came with the NT carburetor, stick with it. It's a proven carb and will perform just as well, if not better than any of the after market ,so called 'performance' carbs, especially the trouble prone CNS from your link. The stock NT is easy to tune and as long as you give it clean fuel, (filtered) it will serve you well.

Tom

SouthernOntarioBikeDemon · Apr 23, 2012

Im pretty sure i have the carb you guys are talking about it has a black plastic air filter, can i put an air filter like the one on the problem carb on my carb? Also my father is a class a mechanic so would that solve the issue of having problems tuning it?

killercanuck · Apr 23, 2012

Aftermarket air filters are available for the NT, I went through the sponsors quick: SickBikeParts, PistonBikes, PirateCycles, Gasbike all have them. Some are different colours, low-profile etc.

gl.

bairdco · Apr 23, 2012

SouthernOntarioBikeDemon said:
...Also my father is a class a mechanic so would that solve the issue of having problems tuning it?

despite my old dual mikunis sidedrafts, the dual webers with a custom manifold i built, the dozens of old honda cars with their wacky carbs, and the almost 2 years i spent working at a carb remanufacturing shop, i never got the CNS carb to work as well as an NT.

not to discount your dad's experience, but it's usually not a lack of skill on the builder's part that causes so many problems with the CNS, it's because the carb's a piece of crap.

it's too big for the engine, it's not tuned from the factory, and it has inherent problems with air leaks caused by the cheap plastic spacer.

your dad, being a class a mechanic, will probably do what many of us have done. mess with it long enough to get thoroughly p!ssed, then smash it with a hammer...

Venice Motor Bikes · Apr 24, 2012

bairdco said:
despite my old dual mikunis sidedrafts, the dual webers with a custom manifold i built, the dozens of old honda cars with their wacky carbs, and the almost 2 years i spent working at a carb remanufacturing shop, i never got the CNS carb to work as well as an NT.

not to discount your dad's experience, but it's usually not a lack of skill on the builder's part that causes so many problems with the CNS, it's because the carb's a piece of crap.

it's too big for the engine, it's not tuned from the factory, and it has inherent problems with air leaks caused by the cheap plastic spacer.

your dad, being a class a mechanic, will probably do what many of us have done. mess with it long enough to get thoroughly p!ssed, then smash it with a hammer...

SouthernOntarioBikeDemon · Apr 24, 2012

bairdco said:
despite my old dual mikunis sidedrafts, the dual webers with a custom manifold i built, the dozens of old honda cars with their wacky carbs, and the almost 2 years i spent working at a carb remanufacturing shop, i never got the CNS carb to work as well as an NT.

not to discount your dad's experience, but it's usually not a lack of skill on the builder's part that causes so many problems with the CNS, it's because the carb's a piece of crap.

it's too big for the engine, it's not tuned from the factory, and it has inherent problems with air leaks caused by the cheap plastic spacer.

your dad, being a class a mechanic, will probably do what many of us have done. mess with it long enough to get thoroughly p!ssed, then smash it with a hammer...

lol good enough, so what is the actual size of the air filter for my carb? the old black one had holes drilled in it and then it looks like the guy cut a circle in it the increase airflow i guess, idk it looks like **** and i want a better air filter, also i dont know if i want to pay for one, but could i find a k and n that would fit my engine?

SouthernOntarioBikeDemon · Apr 24, 2012

also what about an expansion chamber?

killercanuck · Apr 24, 2012

Well borrow Dad's Vernier and check the carb

We can't do all the work for you.

There's options for chamber pipes. The SBP is a tune-able kit. For bolt-ons, there's the Grubee banana, the T4B shorty, and Arrow Cycles has a selection of bolt-on's. Hint-The google search at the top(under the banners) only bring you to pages here.

If you can weld, there's the option of a cheapy pocket-bike pipe of eBay.

Or can build your own from scratch. Search Built my own chamber, or homemade pip

gl.

SouthernOntarioBikeDemon · Apr 25, 2012

ok, so yesterday i took my bike out, had a good little cruise around the block, i turned around and was about to head home down the street i was on, i accelerated and all of a sudden my engine started revving really high and i turned around and my back wheel axle nut came off(resulting the wheel moving side ways freely and making my chain fall off resulting in the high revving) so i tried to put the motor chain back on the big back tire gear and could not as i lost the wheel nut due to it coming off so suddenly, so i wheeled it home. I took a shot at it today and tried to put it back on it didnt work out, it seems as if i need to reduce the tension on it just enough to make it go on the gear but i wont go on it , i tried just puttng the chain on as much as it could and tried to pedal while holding my clutch in but the gear that turns the chain in the motor seemed like it was stuck, is it the chain maybe stuck somehow in the between the cog and the engine or does the wheel and chain need to be removed and put back on again?

killercanuck · Apr 25, 2012

Yes chains will jam when they have too much slack, like when a rear wheel.

You'll need to pull your clutch cover being careful the bucking bar and little bearing don't fall out. Pull your spark plug too, it will help turning the motor over.

With your spark plug tool(or proper socket if you have one) you can turn the sprocket nut to un-jam the chain. Be careful prying too much with screwdrivers, it is an aluminum case after all.

Once its unstuck, having the plug out will allow you to lace the chain back in by turning the sprocket.

Let us know how that goes.

gl.

SouthernOntarioBikeDemon · Apr 26, 2012

ill give that a try this weekend if i have spare time.

ivan H · Apr 28, 2012

Hi mate, get an expansion chamber from Sick Bike Parts, its tuneable & priced well. You will like it. Also, if u want a good reliable carb thats will give u great throttle responce right thru the range & is completely tuneable & every jet u'll ever need is available for, get a VM-16 Mikuni. U wont regret it. U will need a manifold, but it is worth it. Cheers

SouthernOntarioBikeDemon · May 8, 2012

ok so i did what you said killercanuck, now i am having more issues, the motor is not starting now, i pedal and pedal even going down hill it still wont start up, the wires for the cdi came undone so maybe that has something to do with it? i have no clue as to what wires go where, there are two coming out of the engine and 2 coming out of the cdi plus a green one(ground maybe?) the engine sounds like it wants to run but no matter how hard i try it just wont go, maybe i killed the engine when the chain came off cause it hasnt run since that happened, i have the right fuel, etc but im beggining to think its the fuel petcock i have installed on it, the on off valve one that ive seen on other bikes didnt come with the bike, the guy said it broke and that i just needed a normal fuel petcock, maybe thats a problem too? im so confused i just want to ****ing ride it again

killercanuck · May 11, 2012

Okay, don't get discouraged. First have a look at the wiring diagram to make sure everything's in order:

The CDI is the black box attached to the frame. The Magneto in the engine is where the three wires come from.

You can also first try running it without the kill-switch hooked up, after you're sure of the mag -> cdi connections. Switches occasionally fail.

So triple check your wiring, and see how that goes.

gl.

edit/update- I did a quick search on your green wire you mentioned. Older kits sometimes used a green from the engine instead of blue. Just so you know.

young grease monkey · May 11, 2012

If the wires are disconnected from the cdi, then the engine won't run. Period. It wasn't the chain, and the engine is fine. Just connect black to black, blue to blue, ect. It doesn't matter which cdi wires you hook up the kill switch to, all it does is short circuit the magneto so there is no spark and the engine stops. And the different color wire, green in your case, is for an accessory. Tape it up or put heat shrink tube on it so it doesn't short circuit to the frame because it will take power from the cdi and weaken the spark. Also, the petcock that comes with the kit is junk but it should still let fuel through. You can get a better one from sickbikeparts.com. I have it and its very good quality and doesn't leak at all. If you are unsure if fuel is getting to the carb, take off the bottom of it. Also check the brass screw (jet) in the middle if it's clogged. Do this after turning the petcock off, or you will have a mess. And be sure not to let the pin that holds the float in place come out. Hope you figure it out quick so you can ride in this nice weather!

SouthernOntarioBikeDemon · May 14, 2012

killercanuck said:
Okay, don't get discouraged. First have a look at the wiring diagram to make sure everything's in order:

The CDI is the black box attached to the frame. The Magneto in the engine is where the three wires come from.

You can also first try running it without the kill-switch hooked up, after you're sure of the mag -> cdi connections. Switches occasionally fail.

So triple check your wiring, and see how that goes.

gl.

edit/update- I did a quick search on your green wire you mentioned. Older kits sometimes used a green from the engine instead of blue. Just so you know.

PERFECT! A wiring diagram! thank you thank you thank you. dance1

ivan H · May 14, 2012

Hi, if u still aint starting, get a cheap multimeter. Put on 200VAC scale & tape 2 handle bar. Black lead 2 black out of motor. The red 2 the 1 u think is cdi. Of the 2 others coming from motor, accessory will read a small voltage, CDI a lot. With plug out & kill switch disconected, go for a rode 2 get it turning over reasonably fast. If u dont get a reading ur magneto stator coil is to blame. Cheers

80cc bike off kijiji.

New Member

New Member

New Member

Moderator

New Member

New Member

a guy who makes cool bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Member