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| Motorized Bicycle Trouble Shooting Use this area to post problems that may arise that you could use some help in figuring out what is wrong with their bicycle motor and what needs to be done to achieve top performance. |
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02-16-2013, 03:40 PM
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Motorized Bicycle Elite Member
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Join Date: May 2008
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Re: How to troubleshoot vapor lock problems
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikeguy Joe
It's not for impatient people to fill the float bowl, it's to "overfill" the bowl slightly to flood the carb and cause an over rich condition for easie(r) starting.
If you have ever had an older British or Italian bike, you'd know how helpful this is.
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Well, you're right, I've never owned a British or Italian bike and cannot see the reason to do this considering you run the risk of fouling out your spark plug. This is entirely what the choke is for, and have never had any problems starting this engine using the choke in 15 degree weather. So obviously then, if your theory is correct, then it is for starting your engine when it is colder than 15 degrees? I'm just trying to find a trail of logic on this one. This is like someone dumping gas down the carb of an engine to get it started, yet you only do this when there is no fuel in the carb. Do you personally encounter this often? If so, why is your fuel bowl so empty when you start it?
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02-16-2013, 04:34 PM
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Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
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Re: How to troubleshoot vapor lock problems
lol. Yes, exactly. Two strokes LIKE a bit of extra fuel, as do some four strokes.
The choke does well enrichening the engine. BTW- what do you think an "enrichening circuit" does? It's not a choke, but a way of dumping raw gas into the intake.
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02-16-2013, 04:39 PM
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Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
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Re: How to troubleshoot vapor lock problems
Finally, it's not that easy to "foul a plug" with raw gas in an engine with good spark and compression.
In fact, more than once I've removed a plug, poured gasoline right in the plug hole, and gotten a stubborn engine to fire. I just did this with a Ford tractor that defied starting any other way. I have done it with two strokes and four strokes.
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If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, IT WILL BE.
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02-16-2013, 04:43 PM
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Motorized Bicycle Elite Member
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Re: How to troubleshoot vapor lock problems
Well this is the same as pumping your gas pedal using an accelerator pump on a car, but I've owned cars that would not start without using this method. I don't have any trouble starting my engine just using the choke. It starts extremely well without using the tickler. So again, I ask you, does your engine need this? Do you have trouble starting your engine with just the choke?
Also, tell me one more thing. If you do get debri lodged in the needle and seat valve (forgive me, I am only running the factory filter and not a second inline filter) then the valve will stick, either open or partially restricted. The tickler can be used to dislodge the valve. It is a multipurpose device. I don't think you or I can clearly say its absolute intention without hearing from the guy who designed it. I've written the Flying Horse Engine factory several times so far about different design features without any answers from them. They aren't much help unless you want to buy a bunch of their kits.
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02-16-2013, 05:02 PM
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Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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Re: How to troubleshoot vapor lock problems
Yes, now your getting the concept!
I have had bikes that liked it, and some that didn't need it.
I had one that ran fine, but liked a bit of choke if you left it for 5 minutes.
Originally, the tickler was for "flooding the engine". It was not designed to dislodge debris, as they don't design for stuff that's "not supposed to happen".
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If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, IT WILL BE.
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02-16-2013, 05:12 PM
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Motorized Bicycle Elite Member
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Join Date: May 2008
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Re: How to troubleshoot vapor lock problems
Why not put a primer on it instead? Makes more sense. The tickler device is akin to beating on the side of your computer because it is slow or something.
One problem with the HT motor is you don't get a good spark unless you have a good CDI, plug wire, and magneto. The advertised compression is 6:1 according to the manufacturer and many people have mentioned a plug gap of around .010 less than the factory spec because of it. I don't doubt a Ford tractor would have a good ignition system though being that it uses a conventional charging system, battery, coil, points, etc., especially if it has been converted to 12V.
The ignition systems on these bikes are somewhat lacking. It would be nice to see the white wire go towards charging a battery, but I am not sure it has enough power to do much of anything.
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