As the title says, the hold down (neutral button/spring bolt combo thing?) ejected itself at some point during my ride and was wondering if anyone had an easy hardware store solution for a replacement. The clutch lever in question is part of cheap eBay kit and the clutch hold down bolt looks like a carriage bolt with a quarter inch long shank that then steps down to a thin rod to fit through the the handle help up by a spring topside. I have a fleet farm right down the road and I know some where in that store is exactly what I need, the only question is what?
so my clutch lever button decided to disappear, any home brew replacements?
- Thread starter aa35199
- Start date
Yup. Cheapest fix is a strong rubber band or a dangling ziptie.
If you're going to buy new levers, check out the repop dia compe tech77 bmx freestyle locking levers. I use em on all my bikes and they work awesome.
If you're going to buy new levers, check out the repop dia compe tech77 bmx freestyle locking levers. I use em on all my bikes and they work awesome.
Loosing the locking mechanism, button, spring and 'C' clip is common with the cheaper clutch levers. The snap rings are notorious for falling off because they aren't tight enough or the groove is too shallow. Some don't even have snap rings but a little metal washer that is crimped onto the shank.
If you have one and want to avoid loosing parts here's a solution. The button shank usually has a groove where the snap ring goes. Drill a 1/16" hole through the shaft in that groove. Using the washer that's already there, install a 1/16" cotter pin through the hole you drilled with the washer behind it, between the cotter pin and the lever frame. The cotter pin won't/can't fall out.
If you want to make the clutch release a little quieter and reduce some of the shock on parts when the spring pulls the button back, install a small rubber 'O' ring between the washer and the lever frame. Instead of that annoying metallic click all you'll hear is a nice muffled little 'clunk' sound.
But I agree. Buying a new/better clutch lever would be easier and less hassle than trying to fabricate a new button. Unless you have access to a lathe.
Tom
If you have one and want to avoid loosing parts here's a solution. The button shank usually has a groove where the snap ring goes. Drill a 1/16" hole through the shaft in that groove. Using the washer that's already there, install a 1/16" cotter pin through the hole you drilled with the washer behind it, between the cotter pin and the lever frame. The cotter pin won't/can't fall out.
If you want to make the clutch release a little quieter and reduce some of the shock on parts when the spring pulls the button back, install a small rubber 'O' ring between the washer and the lever frame. Instead of that annoying metallic click all you'll hear is a nice muffled little 'clunk' sound.
But I agree. Buying a new/better clutch lever would be easier and less hassle than trying to fabricate a new button. Unless you have access to a lathe.
Tom
Fixed, sorry I took so long to follow up on my own thread.
I know buying a new clutch lever would be best, looking at the quality of the chain tensioner that came with the kit I can only imagine how bad the current lever is compared to an opulent $15 piece that is probably worlds better. But anyways I'm cheap and impatient so here we go.
First things first I needed to do some precision measurements of the larger top hole the button goes through and it turned out to be exactly one thousand milliNewports!
So what button like object measures exactly one thousand milliNewports and has a tapped hole in the bottom for a thin screw? A cabinet handle! Boy did I look like a weirdo in the cabinet isle at Menards.
Bought a spring as well and cut it to fit, and had to touch up the shaft of the handle where it tapered and take the threads off of the center of the screw with a grinder so everything fit up nicely.
Assembled and pretty!
Clutch goes in
All in all the whole shebang cost me $2 (not including the pack Newport 100's precision measuring instruments), and it works exactly like the original and looks so fancy while doing it!
Edit:
I forgot to mention I had to drill out the small hole at the bottom slightly so I could fit the screw through it.
I know buying a new clutch lever would be best, looking at the quality of the chain tensioner that came with the kit I can only imagine how bad the current lever is compared to an opulent $15 piece that is probably worlds better. But anyways I'm cheap and impatient so here we go.
First things first I needed to do some precision measurements of the larger top hole the button goes through and it turned out to be exactly one thousand milliNewports!
So what button like object measures exactly one thousand milliNewports and has a tapped hole in the bottom for a thin screw? A cabinet handle! Boy did I look like a weirdo in the cabinet isle at Menards.
Bought a spring as well and cut it to fit, and had to touch up the shaft of the handle where it tapered and take the threads off of the center of the screw with a grinder so everything fit up nicely.
Assembled and pretty!
Clutch goes in
All in all the whole shebang cost me $2 (not including the pack Newport 100's precision measuring instruments), and it works exactly like the original and looks so fancy while doing it!
Edit:
I forgot to mention I had to drill out the small hole at the bottom slightly so I could fit the screw through it.
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Now that's innovation and our hats are off to you, sir. I'm going to bookmark this for future use because the lock button issue is very common. Your idea should help others who have lost that danged button.
Great work and thank you for sharing your talents.
Tom
Great work and thank you for sharing your talents.
Tom
Thank you, the way I see it it's the least I can do to give back to this forum that I have been searching through for the last month during the buying and building phases of my project. And thank you to all of you for your wisdom that you have posted because right after my fancy cabinet drawer handle fix I took it out for a ride and found myself a member of the "my NT carb jet fell out club" and I would still be pulling my hair out trying to figure it out if it weren't for this forum. Coming up in the mountain bike section will be my "Absolutely nothing cleared!" build thread.
