Well, didn't even get one ride and I'm screwed...

MoreBloodWine · Oct 25, 2012

This bike is proving more troublesome than I wanted. Chain tensioner is gonna bite me in the rear. As the saying goes, a picture says a thousand words.

Mind you the master link isn't in yet so I may still have options depending on what you guys think.

Edit: I say it's gonna bite be in the rear since after the master link is in I'll need to adjust the tensioner wheel higher... and I need the tensioner bec without it the chain rides the frame.

Sent from my PANTECH Crossover ™ on AT&T via Forum Runner.

Fugi93 · Oct 25, 2012

MoreBloodWine said:
This bike is proving more troublesome than I wanted. Chain tensioner is gonna bite me in the rear. As the saying goes, a picture says a thousand words.

View attachment 52808

View attachment 52809

Mind you the master link isn't in yet so I may still have options depending on what you guys think.

Edit: I say it's gonna bite be in the rear since after the master link is in I'll need to adjust the tensioner wheel higher... and I need the tensioner bec without it the chain rides the frame.

Sent from my PANTECH Crossover ™ on AT&T via Forum Runner.

There is a master link on your chain. Take a link out and replace it.

MoreBloodWine · Oct 25, 2012

That's the thing... the tensioner is as low as it gets and if I take any more links out I can't use the master. Reason is because the tensioner won't adjust any lower to get some slack to add the master link.

Sent from my PANTECH Crossover ™ on AT&T via Forum Runner.

2door · Oct 25, 2012

Slide the tensioner bracket forward on the chain stay. Then you might have to remove a link from your chain. Actually two links.
Oh, and your photo is flipped, or you have the first right side drive Chinese engine kit any of us have ever seen.

Tom

Fugi93 · Oct 25, 2012

MoreBloodWine said:
That's the thing... the tensioner is as low as it gets and if I take any more links out I can't use the master. Reason is because the tensioner won't adjust any lower to get some slack to add the master link.

Sent from my PANTECH Crossover ™ on AT&T via Forum Runner.

I think I ran into that before when I bought a new chain, now that I think about it. I was able to adjust the rear wheel forward, just enough to get it working. Since then, the chain has stretched a lot. It sounds like you need a half link to make it easy. Try getting the chain on with the rear wheel loose and then see if you have enough play to bolt it back in place once you got the chain on. Good luck.

I should have said that after you remove a link, that is.

MotorBicycleRacing · Oct 25, 2012

2door said:
Slide the tensioner bracket forward on the chain stay. Then you might have to remove a link from your chain. Actually two links.
Oh, and your photo is flipped, or you have the first right side drive Chinese engine kit any of us have ever seen.

Tom
His pic isn't flipped, the bike is upside down!

Whats with the crazy pic?
From a quick glance it seems that your tensioner is on the top
chain run where as it should be on the bottom.

Do you have a pic of the whole bike NOT upside down?

Why is your motor so high in the frame?
Where is the carb?

Looks like you got all kind of problems.

JonnyR · Oct 25, 2012

i would put a sheet metal screw trough the tentioner and into the bike frame to keep it from twisting put the master in it and pull the wheel up to the right height

MoreBloodWine · Oct 25, 2012

1. The bike was upside down.
2. I did put the tensioner on the wrong bar, my bad forgot it was flipped lmao.
3. Even if I flip it to the right "bottom" rail it will still need to be positioned where it is now.
4. Ideally I think I need a custom tensioner that sits lower to get to positioning I need.
5. As for the bike and the engine being where it is... the frame is unusually shaped so alas the engine is in its final position.
6. The rear wheel also cannot be moved to a "better" position.

When Last Resort is over I'll put the bike on the porch again and take another stab at it but without a lower sitting custom tensioner I fear I am SOL.

Sent from my PANTECH Crossover ™ on AT&T via Forum Runner.

MoreBloodWine · Oct 25, 2012

Ok bikes on the porch and this is how it currently sits... bout to fix tensioner. Ok its a bit dark for a pic so forget tghat for a min but I may be able to fix this after all but question. Can the chain be ran under the tensioner wheel since the slack is still bein held ?

Sent from my PANTECH Crossover ™ on AT&T via Forum Runner.

2door · Oct 25, 2012

MotorBicycleRacing said:
Tom
His pic isn't flipped, the bike is upside down!

Whats with the crazy pic?
From a quick glance it seems that your tensioner is on the top
chain run where as it should be on the bottom.

Do you have a pic of the whole bike NOT upside down?

Why is your motor so high in the frame?
Where is the carb?

Looks like you got all kind of problems.

LOL, I just realized that!!!

I glanced at the photo and saw what I saw. Thanks Niel.

Desert Rat · Oct 25, 2012

2door said:
Slide the tensioner bracket forward on the chain stay. Then you might have to remove a link from your chain. Actually two links.
Oh, and your photo is flipped, or you have the first right side drive Chinese engine kit any of us have ever seen.

Tom

I agree with 2door

2door · Oct 25, 2012

Rat,
You'll probably catch holy heck from the "no drill" crowd but I still have my first bike with well over 2K miles on it and there's a 3/16" hole through the tensioner bracket and chain stay with a 10/32 Allen head cap screw and lock nut. The tensioner has never moved and the chain stay has never cracked. Just my experience. Others will agree or disagree.
Like everything else about this hobby; if it works for you, do it.

Tom

diceman2004 · Oct 25, 2012

OK ... What in Sam Hill is ya gots goin on there .
I,m not quite sure where you are going with this top secret design that you are only letting us see bits and pieces of .

why is your motor pushed up to the top tube ?
WHAT IS YOUR FRONT MOTOR MOUNT ATTACHED TO ?
You are going to break the engine studs off the first time you start the motor if its only attached at the back . Intake ? I don,t know .. I don,t get it .
You are going to rip the tensioner right into you wheel running it on the top chain the way you have it .

I,m not seeing this right .. or I am .. which scares me more .

Please take the time to look at some photos of the setups on some of the other bikes on the site .

Sorry if i,m not seeing this right .. i just don,t understand what you,re doing there .

Desert Rat · Oct 25, 2012

2door said:
Rat,
You'll probably catch holy heck from the "no drill" crowd but I still have my first bike with well over 2K miles on it and there's a 3/16" hole through the tensioner bracket and chain stay with a 10/32 Allen head cap screw and lock nut. The tensioner has never moved and the chain stay has never cracked. Just my experience. Others will agree or disagree.
Like everything else about this hobby; if it works for you, do it.

Tom

LOL yea I'm sure I will, in my defense let me say your removing metal to put harder metal in it's place, IMHO, I had to spread my rear forks 2 1/2 inches
for the HD axle and no problems

Oh and I spent twenty five years working in machine shops and have a
degree in engineering so let the young ones rant

ROFLMAO
plus building a few bobbers So

MoreBloodWine · Oct 25, 2012

I might be new to this hobby but I'm no idiot lol, I know what would happen if it was just attached to one tube. Hopefully the first two pics allieviate any concerns as to why my motor sits so high.

Again, the tensioner was put on in a dumbfounded moment when I had the bike upside down... please read previous posts ;-)

These next two shows the current issues I am having due to engine placement / awkward bike frame shape.

This first one shows why I have the tensioner place where it is, to clear the drive sprocket housing which as it stands is as good as it gets.

Now this one shows the chain "in place" and where, due to engine placement again, the top of the chain rides the frame. If it wasn't for this current frame issue I am confident that I could be riding this monster as early as tomorrow afternoon.

diceman2004 · Oct 26, 2012

Now its makin a lot more sense that i can see the whole thing .
Thats a squeeze for sure . Have you thought about cutting down the rear engine mount spacer .
I bet 1/2 an inch off the spacer would probably drop your motor down an inch .

my kit came with 2 .. if you have a spare .. might be worth a try .

MoreBloodWine · Oct 26, 2012

It came with a second mount thing but I doubt it would help much... I;m thinking my only option is to just get a different bike. Heck, that's something I can't even afford right now but for the fun of it I'm checking out Walmarts website.

This is what I'm looking at right now, same brand as my current bike and the lower frame bar is straight but the top one is bent a bit not that I think that would matter to much. Even then, as my luck would have it I'd probably still have some sort of placement issue if that bottom frame bar isn't angled just right.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/NEXT-Avalon-26-Men-s-Cruiser-Bike/14272884

There's also this one...

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Kawasaki-26-Men-s-Mountain-Bike/11064964

JonnyR · Oct 26, 2012

i say move the tensioner to the top to move the chain to where you need it it dosent need to be on the bottom i ran mine on the top till i changed to my newer kit and if you haven't used a sheet metal screw dont knock it works fantastic my frames to thin to stick a giant bolt in it and risk the tube braking

diceman2004 · Oct 26, 2012

ya .. forget about cutting .. i just moved your motor in MS paint .. because of the angel of the front tube , the chain ends up on the same line .

you would need to do somethin about the front mount , and it looks like you have an oversize tube thing going on there . ... bummer

MoreBloodWine · Oct 26, 2012

diceman2004 said:
ya .. forget about cutting .. i just moved your motor in MS paint .. because of the angel of the front tube , the chain ends up on the same line .

you would need to do somethin about the front mount , and it looks like you have an oversize tube thing going on there . ... bummer

Front mounts fine, I shook the **** out of it and it's rock solid... still think my best bet is one of the two bikes linked on my last reply above. Those are just the current two I found, still searching and broke though so this search is just gonna bum me out more.

I could even get something with a nice frame but screw coaster brakes, I want something I can hand grip to guarantee a top, especially with a motor on it.

MoreBloodWine · Oct 26, 2012

Looks like the Kawasaki might be the better of those two bets, at least in regards to the bottom tube even though it still looks kinda fat.

Well, didn't even get one ride and I'm screwed...

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