Wheel lacing tutorial

GoldenMotor.com

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Lacing your own wheel can save you a lot of money over having it done in a bike shop and is a satisfying thing to be able to say, "I built my wheels". It also gives you a lot of latitude in components. At the moment I'm in the middle of lacing up a pair of 1950's Schwinn rims to Atom drum brake hubs using 11 gauge spokes. When I'm done I'll have heavy duty wheels that look good and cost me less than $50.00 for the pair. The spokes are for a Whizzer and were purchased on ebay for $45.00 for a pair of wheels including shipping. I had the rims from a donor and the Atom drums came from a rusty old moped, now cleaned up and looking almost like new.

Learning to lace a wheel was a daunting undertaking for me. I'm not at all good at visualizing how to do something from instructions, don't like puzzles and get lost in math. I also have a traumatic brain injury from being struck by lightning about twenty years ago. (Lightning entered my left ear and came out between my eyes, forehead and crown... ouch!) I have dyslexia now and am a lot slower learning new things. I tell you this not because I'm looking for sympathy, but to convince you that if someone like me can learn to lace a wheel, then so can you. No genius required, but patience and perseverance will win the day.

Even now after having laced a number of wheels I like to review in my mind or through a tutorial how to go about it. There are tutorials on U tube which is where I learned how to do my first wheel, but this morning I was looking at the newsletter from Atomic Zombie and noticed they had a link to a tutorial they've done on lacing a 36 hole wheel in a 3 cross pattern. I looked at it and it is a good one. You can either look at the pictures and read the text or click on a link for video and spoken dialogue with no extra chatter, attempts at humor or such. Right to the how to point of what to do. As a former teacher, I like that. Give it a look and see what you think.

http://www.atomiczombie.com/Tutorial - 3 Cross Wheel Lacing - Page 1.aspx

If you are using extra thick spokes in 11 or 10 gauge you may wish to skip tucking the spoke under the last cross as they do not want to bend. I notice on my Worksman wheel that there is no tucking under. So that's what I do on mine. If I'm using 12 gauge spokes then I do the tuck under as in this tutorial. Good information here on truing your wheel as well. Good luck! If you have a favorite tutorial, then share it! Same with building tips... pass them along.
SB
 
Last edited:

Venice Motor Bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
Mar 20, 2008
7,271
1,810
113
Los Angeles, CA.
I basically taught myself how to build wheels, & it's true... I always feel proud that 'I built it myself'!

I've learned a few good tricks over time... One of them is that it is just as important how you take a old wheel apart as it is to rebuild it... When taking the spokes out of a wheel, loosen each spoke only one turn going all the way around the rim twice to slowly take the tension off the rim (& not cause it to warp). ;)
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Hey Norm,
That's a good point about slowly relieving the pressure of the spokes when dismantling a wheel. There's a whole lot of tension in a tuned wheel. If all I'm saving is the hub then I use a cut off wheel on the rotary tool and cut them loose quickly. Also feels good to salvage what would otherwise end up in a landfill while saving money at the same time.
SB
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
I thought I'd post a picture or two of my primitive "truing stand" which works well enough for me. I don't have a shop or garage to work in, but I do have an old picnic table with a vice bolted to it. The bike is a 1950's girls Schwinn clamped into the vice. To check for wobble (side to side movement) I hold a screwdriver or my finger on the chain stay to see where I need to adjust the spokes to true the wheel. I use the same screwdriver I'm using to tighten the nipples.

Even if you have a commercial truing stand your most essential tools are taking your time and making small adjustments as you go. Be patient. I'm satisfied with less than perfect as I have no desire to set speed records, just want to have a comfortable, safe ride. Close is good.

The wheel pictured is a heavy duty roadmaster laced into a Honda 55 trail bike hub salvaged and cleaned up. Spokes are 9 5/8" 11 gauge from Husky Bicycle. About $25.00 with shipping for 50 spokes and nipples. This wheel is to replace a Worksman on my 1951 Panther build "American Flyer" which is very heavy with a canoe sidecar, bear riding it and dog as passenger... a lot to bring to a stop. I'm counting on this wheel to do the trick.

I do want to encourage you to consider building your own wheels if you have the desire to do so. You don't need great equipment or much money and you can still get great results. Having sound wheels with good brakes along with a strong frame makes for a good foundation for your build. Stay safe and have fun.
SB

Oops, I see that I said the spokes were from Huffy Bicycle... not likely! They are from Husky Bicycle. I just edited the correction.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
3
38
Lebanon, PA
For some very odd reason, I either did not properly finalize my post earlier or it got removed. Whatev. Anyhoozle, I used this tutorial to lace a wheel up earlier today. I had a crappy rim with a hub I needed, and a good rim with the wrong size hub. So I disassembled each wheel, took the hub from the shoddy rim and laced it into the new rim with the new spokes. I didn't true the wheel. I don't want this rim ending up in the same condition as the old one because of my mistakes, so I'm taking it to a shop to have it trued. I'm not real happy, considering that the wheel I ordered was supposed to be an exact replacement of the wheel I was having problems with, and I ended up with a different size hub. Not very cool in my opinion, but again, whatev. I'm rambling and moaning, sorry. Anyway, this tutorial was great. I made two mistakes, but they were easily corrected. The first mistake was missing a spoke, not sure how that happened, but it was a very simple matter of putting the spoke where it belonged. The second mistake was a little more difficult and time consuming. I forgot to cross the spokes when I was putting the 2nd and 4th set of 9 in. That's what happens when you don't read all the instructions, lol. But all I had to do was take the spoke nipples off, cross them and put the nipples back on. But I didn't even need to read the instructions to do both sides of the wheel. I just figured the pattern must be the same, so I just repeated the pattern on the second flange that I had done on the first. Worked like a charm. I only wish they had outlined a pattern for 4 cross lacing, I'd have done that instead.
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
3
38
Lebanon, PA
Actually I just read that 4 cross is not much stronger than 3 cross, and the spoke heads may interfere with one another. Also, if a spoke ever needs to be replaced, other spokes may have to be removed in order to allow enough room. Guess I will stick with 3 cross. Still a great tutorial though.
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
3
38
Lebanon, PA
Yeah, I just hope I don't have the same problems with this wheel that I had with the other. I'll be really glad not to have to dick with it anymore. Cause if I do have any more problems, I'll be ordering a different wheel and adapter. I really like the Howard adapter because it takes the kit sprockets, which makes replacements very cheap and simple. But its not worth all the headaches and frustration I've gone through. I'll try to make it work for all the money I've already spent, but no more.