Your list looks good. Me and my stepson built stingrays with Grubee GT2's (the 48 cc) The one thing I HAVE to confirm with you is YES get the Pirate Cycles sprocket adapter. We did for both of our builds, and I'm so glad we did. For one thing, the one that comes with the kit is cheap crap. The spokes on the OCC wheel are laced differently than a standard bicycle wheel, so you'll struggle with fitting the screws through the wheel. We discovered this when my stepson wanted to try to use the ragjoint while waiting for the pirate cycles adapters to arrive. (Can't blame him for being impatient). All the other legitimate reasons to go this route are on Pirate Cycle's website- Better quality, you're driving the WHEEL HUB and not HALF THE SPOKES, and the fact that you can buy different sprocket sizes will definitely be appreciated if you want to tune it later down the road. Plus if I remember correctly, being able to "slide" the adapter back and fourth on the hub was crucial to lining up the chain properly in both of our cases. You definitely don't want to deal with broken spokes on the already under-spoked and over-sized rear wheel on these bikes. I have a few tips for you too that should help a lot; the memories are coming back to me now when I think about all the different obstacles that we faced (and overcame) when we first started out with these builds. For one, get yourself some different bars. I am 5/9 and My knees hit the stock bars when I try to pedal. You have a horrible center of balance too with your hands that low. I have about 2 foot tall mini apes on mine now, (not the same ones in our youtube video) and my stepson just used standard sized BMX crossbar style handlebars on his, and they are so much more comfortable and really increase your handling. Another tip, which I'm surprised I have never seen in any of the Youtube videos I've seen for motorized stingrays- (except for my own which you can reference if the following description makes no sense to you) You can use the nylon roller wheel "chain tensioner" that comes with the kit and NOT hack your brake pads like Barry suggests if you mount the tensioner on the INSIDE of the bottom frame bar. I forget if I disassembled it and re-situated it, just have the longer length piece with the diagonal slot for the idler wheel on the inside of the frame, and the small piece on the outside of the frame. Make sure you have the idler wheel at the lowest point of travel; don't think for a second that it's going to stay put if you try tightening it somewhere in the middle (like it's designed to be used). We had to use a half link for both of our chains to get the right length, and it can be a pain getting both the drive chain and the bicycle chain at the right lengths and both tensioned properly, but it can be done. We also bought 415 bicycle chain, but it would not work on the sprockets. If you run into this problem, we ended up using roller chain meant for garage door openers. You'll also want to make sure to go to your local hardware store and get better quality bolts that are just a smidge longer the ones that came with it. It actually tightens down really well on the square frame, and it lines your chain up perfectly. It also re-directs the chain just over the brake calipers so you don't sacrifice any break pad surface, and this allows you to use a different size sprocket in the future. (you will have to get a new length of chain if you do this however) A bonus result is the profile of the chain looks great. If you search "military style bobber" on youtube our video should come up (i.c. Street pirates) Good luck with your build!