More engine problems.
- Thread starter xXNightRiderXx
- Start date
I got the bearings greased, not a lot though. I'm testing it now to see if the grease does its job well while hot.
Update: the clutch bearings and gear teeth are properly greased, and the engine runs very well. Going to try heavy duty electrical tape to temporarily reattach the muffler.
Update: the clutch bearings and gear teeth are properly greased, and the engine runs very well. Going to try heavy duty electrical tape to temporarily reattach the muffler.
Last edited:
Well, I've just about given up on this thing. It quit working a few days ago. Mid ride, shut er off because of a fuel line malfunction, and cant get her to start up again. She gets fuel and air, tried starting with choke in all positions, checked for leaks, I still have full compression, and she chirps when I try to start it. Almost like there's a metal shaving between the piston rings. I should also mention that she sometimes ran until there was no fuel left because I didn't catch the fuel line malfunction in time. No more than three times actually. It was the time after the third when I had to hit the kill switch this all started. Any pointers would be helpful. Getting a monster 80 to replace it, would now be a great tinker engine.
Would that cause the chirping whenever the piston moves at starting speed?
Last edited:
I will be sure to check my gasket then. Also, how do I get the jug off for the first time after 300 miles?
I have a hole in my stock paper gasket that I need to fix. I have a replacement base gasket too.
Ouch!
Fuel restriction can cause a lean condition that could damage the piston and cylinder. The only thing worse would be a hole in a gasket, causing a lean condition that could damage the piston and cylinder. It is not looking good. If the head bolts were loose it would likely blow out the basegasket and cause the headgasket to be loose.
All conjecture from here however. You have to dig in and diagnose it.
taking jug off is easy - getting it back on isn't hard, but you need to be very careful getting rings aligned at pins & into jug without breaking them
some folks like to leave piston on rod and slip it in, while others like to take off piston to put it in jug, then put wrist pin into whole assembly
read a lot before starting this
some folks like to leave piston on rod and slip it in, while others like to take off piston to put it in jug, then put wrist pin into whole assembly
read a lot before starting this
Port n' Polish that ish, SON!! And slap on a 36T sprocket and you'd be like R. Kelly........ I believe I can fly!!
id much rather a jackshaft so i can optimize for speed, or uphill, or all terrain. and of course the acceleration from a dead stop. so HOW do i pull off the jug? it doesn't budge any amount no matter what i do.
Last edited:
Thanks for the assistance. My engine is now running just fine, had a few hiccups here and there, but works great otherwise. I'm guessing my 40 mph speed with this engine was due to under-torquing, as now it goes 32 mph top. Had my first chain links snap last night, got that fixed. Needed to take the remaining rubber off the aftermarket mounts to allow for the shorter chain. Also got a torque wrench, but I wound up getting the wrong drive size. exchanging it at Harbor Freight today. I hand torqued my head nuts, and its working just fine for now. When i get the half inch drive wrench, i will properly torque the head down. im estimating i managed to torque it down to around 11 ft/lbs with a normal ratchet. Now I need to lap my head as there are gouges in the ring, with just enough space to allow a good seal. I don't expect that to last much longer. still need to replace the base gasket, possibly even the head gasket.
While at harbor freight, i took a look at the 670 they had on display, and MAN IT IS HUGE!!!!!! That engine will not fit on anything other than a big cruiser or chopper. the largest engine they had there that i can readily fit on my bike is the 212. All i have to do is take off the gas tank and modify the air filter and then add some kind of fairing to make the top of the engine look pretty, and the bike will be good to go with a cent. clutch. With some minor frame modding and some squeezing, i could fit a 301 on it. i think the 212 with a jackshaft is fast enough for a CX frame with street tires, don't you guys?
for the 212, what sprockets would you recommend for the shaft itself?
Heres what im thinking: L-10 R-15
30-35mph is about normal for a good working 66cc with 44t sprocket.
Rubber mounts are not a good idea, cause a lot of vibration, not deaden it.
Best to solid mount the engine to the frame for the least vibration.
There is nowhere near enough torque to snap any size chain links, so if you are breaking them, there is something wrong with alignment or tension.
A 1/2" drive torque wrench is too big for our bikes and motors. It should be 3/8" or 1/4"
As long as the headgasket is not leaking (you will see the oil) you are good.
If the basegasket is leaking you can burn up a piston from the air leak.
Estimated torques are valueless! Seriously.
Steve
Rubber mounts are not a good idea, cause a lot of vibration, not deaden it.
Best to solid mount the engine to the frame for the least vibration.
There is nowhere near enough torque to snap any size chain links, so if you are breaking them, there is something wrong with alignment or tension.
A 1/2" drive torque wrench is too big for our bikes and motors. It should be 3/8" or 1/4"
As long as the headgasket is not leaking (you will see the oil) you are good.
If the basegasket is leaking you can burn up a piston from the air leak.
Estimated torques are valueless! Seriously.
Steve
I got a few adapters for my torque wrench, and I needed a 1/2 because all the sockets I have that will fit my head nuts are 1/2 drive sockets. I got my head properly torqued down at 11ft/lbs and I haven't gotten the base gasket replaced because it seems it was misplaced. Once I locate it, I will get it replaced. I also got 220 grain sandpaper for metal and lapped my head. Will higher comp increase top speed or overall power? First time doing this kinda technical thing.
Update: I have confirmed that my engine is indeed 4 stroking in the high mid rpms. Right when I get to 26 mph is when it starts. Do I need to increase my jet size, or what? My needle is at the leanest setting, so I have as much power as I will get from it right now, without the expansion chamber. I just installed a soda can muffler made from a mtn dew Kickstart can (kinda ironic considering my current start method) and it works great for noise suppression, not sure if it works for much else. I have a bunch of semi tightly crumpled newspaper in the can, so that may help. Again, I'm getting 4 stroking in the high mid range, and this is after throttling up from a dead stop, full throttle. The speed it consistently starts is 26.72 mph. It stops at 28.94 mph. I get top speeds of 33.43 mph. Anyways, I gotta get some sleep. Good night Yall, and hopefully we get this figured out.
BTW, I may have accepted a business proposition that may get more motorized bikes on the streets of las vegas. Hopefully, this increased number of riders traveling with or slower than traffic helps drivers recognize the danger of their own cars.
CARS CAN BE UP TO 8 TIMES MORE DANGEROUS AND LETHAL THAN ANY BIKE IN ANY ACCIDENT!!!!
Always watch the road and be paranoid of idiot drivers! If riding with traffic, never drive even with another car. You don't know if they see you, and they will merge into you if they don't. Never follow less than 5 seconds behind, always look ahead ten seconds. While roads are wet or icy, use studded tires on ice and drive slower than the speed limit by at least 10 mph, or no faster than 15-25 mph. Never allow personal devices to interfere with road awareness. Music is allowed. (Duh) While driving in snow, try to keep off the packed snow, as this has less traction. Try to follow plowed and sanded/de-iced roads. DO NOT FOLLOW LESS THAN 25 FEET BEHIND A SNOW PLOW! THEY FLING FINE SAND/DE-ICER WHICH CAN GET INTO YOUR EYES OR DAMAGE YOUR ENGINE!
BTW, I may have accepted a business proposition that may get more motorized bikes on the streets of las vegas. Hopefully, this increased number of riders traveling with or slower than traffic helps drivers recognize the danger of their own cars.
CARS CAN BE UP TO 8 TIMES MORE DANGEROUS AND LETHAL THAN ANY BIKE IN ANY ACCIDENT!!!!
Always watch the road and be paranoid of idiot drivers! If riding with traffic, never drive even with another car. You don't know if they see you, and they will merge into you if they don't. Never follow less than 5 seconds behind, always look ahead ten seconds. While roads are wet or icy, use studded tires on ice and drive slower than the speed limit by at least 10 mph, or no faster than 15-25 mph. Never allow personal devices to interfere with road awareness. Music is allowed. (Duh) While driving in snow, try to keep off the packed snow, as this has less traction. Try to follow plowed and sanded/de-iced roads. DO NOT FOLLOW LESS THAN 25 FEET BEHIND A SNOW PLOW! THEY FLING FINE SAND/DE-ICER WHICH CAN GET INTO YOUR EYES OR DAMAGE YOUR ENGINE!
Last edited:
4 stroking has gotten worse, now can't go above 25 mph. It isn't caused by my exhaust. I'm left wondering if it is my jet, or some other issue. what are the various causes for 4-stroking?
