Hello guys im glad to be here on the forum , so my biggest problem now is my chain tensions, on my pedal crank chain and my engine chain it seems very difficult for me to get both tensions correct one will be good then the other sides off,and the chain is rubbing the tire on the side that runs to the engine . and another thing my throttle was junk so i replaced it with a real nice one but im still have trouble with my carb the throttle gets stuck in half position and my bike revs itself then when i hit the clutch it seems to make it go faster. the cylinder that goes up in down in the carb gets stuck . Good thing my killswitch is working. So i tried lubricated the throttle cable with some wd-40. please someone shed some wisdom my way thank you very much, by the way i have a 66cc 2 stroke on a Schwinn deluxe cruiser, the kit looks great on my bike but wish i could get it running. and one last thing when i had it running the other day before my chains were popping off it seemed to take a long time to start like up to ten tries, then it will started up easier but why is it taking so long to start. Thanks guys
first Time buiding a motor bicycle, need some advice.
- Thread starter tysmilo
- Start date
Hello tysmilo welcome to the forum..
Are you running a chain tensioner? that would help solve your problems trying to get both chain tensioned correctly. Or you can just keep adding and removing links until you get it. But, on some bike models this just will not work and a tensioner is needed.
A chain tensioner will help keep the chain from rubbing the tire somewhat. If its excessive you might need to add some washers or something in the chain stay to give a little more room between the chain and tire. Also be sure your rear wheel is mounted straight or square in the chain stay. Some photos will be a great help to see whats going on. On some bikes you just end up running a skinner tire.
For your throttle sticking, be sure your throttle cable is not kinked and moving freely. Then you want to be sure not to over tighten the top of the carb slide. This will warp the throttle body causing your throttle to stick.
Easy way to be sure this is what is happening to your sticking throttle is to twist your throttle until it get stuck. Then loosen the top of the carb and if your throttle snaps to the close position you had it too tight.
If this does not fix the throttle sticking problem, then something else is causing this. I would then check to be sure the slide was installed correctly.
Are you running a chain tensioner? that would help solve your problems trying to get both chain tensioned correctly. Or you can just keep adding and removing links until you get it. But, on some bike models this just will not work and a tensioner is needed.
A chain tensioner will help keep the chain from rubbing the tire somewhat. If its excessive you might need to add some washers or something in the chain stay to give a little more room between the chain and tire. Also be sure your rear wheel is mounted straight or square in the chain stay. Some photos will be a great help to see whats going on. On some bikes you just end up running a skinner tire.
For your throttle sticking, be sure your throttle cable is not kinked and moving freely. Then you want to be sure not to over tighten the top of the carb slide. This will warp the throttle body causing your throttle to stick.
Easy way to be sure this is what is happening to your sticking throttle is to twist your throttle until it get stuck. Then loosen the top of the carb and if your throttle snaps to the close position you had it too tight.
If this does not fix the throttle sticking problem, then something else is causing this. I would then check to be sure the slide was installed correctly.
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Hi tysmilo, your problems are common.
\One thing you need to about using forums like this is you don;t have to have to type in one long continuous stream of text without a break.
Hit Enter now and again like this.
Or hit enter twice like this for some more space.
It makes it easier for the people trying to help to read it.
You also need to understand not everyone has the same motor kit as you.
Pictures or at least the motor make and carb that is on it, otherwise all you get for help are generic answers.
All that said first off is WD-40 is NOT a lubricant, it is a solvent.
If you sprayed it down your carb to make the barrel slide easier that would explain why it was so hard to start, you destroyed the fuel in the float bowl, once you blew it through it started ;-}
Sadly the same goes for your throttle cable.
A well routed stock throttle cable usually works great if you get the spring on the carb barrel right but if it needs help then use powdered graphite.
The usual reason for a barrel to not slide well is the needle being not centered because you didn't get the PacMan clip on it straight, or there is so debris in your jet, or of course the throttle cable itself.
With the whole throttle off the handlebars and the cable free of any ties does it work?
If not look in the carb.
If it does look at how you are mounting the parts.
That should set on the right track.
\One thing you need to about using forums like this is you don;t have to have to type in one long continuous stream of text without a break.
Hit Enter now and again like this.
Or hit enter twice like this for some more space.
It makes it easier for the people trying to help to read it.
You also need to understand not everyone has the same motor kit as you.
Pictures or at least the motor make and carb that is on it, otherwise all you get for help are generic answers.
All that said first off is WD-40 is NOT a lubricant, it is a solvent.
If you sprayed it down your carb to make the barrel slide easier that would explain why it was so hard to start, you destroyed the fuel in the float bowl, once you blew it through it started ;-}
Sadly the same goes for your throttle cable.
A well routed stock throttle cable usually works great if you get the spring on the carb barrel right but if it needs help then use powdered graphite.
The usual reason for a barrel to not slide well is the needle being not centered because you didn't get the PacMan clip on it straight, or there is so debris in your jet, or of course the throttle cable itself.
With the whole throttle off the handlebars and the cable free of any ties does it work?
If not look in the carb.
If it does look at how you are mounting the parts.
That should set on the right track.
thanks guys for some knowledge ,i ended up getting the chain tensioner right,
it kept moving so i bent it to fit nice and tight so that problems gone. And the tire isnt rubbing.
i had it running for a while today and it took forever to get it started then it was hard to get it warmed up to full power. Then my throttle stuck again so i adjusted the throttle and carb then it wouldnt start.
I think ts flooding itself really easily. I will try and get pictures up for you guys to see. the kit i have was bought on ebay and its that same Chinese 80cc kit all over the web. I am running it with the stock NT carb. \
if anyone has any feedback on why its not starting right up or on the flooding theory let me know. Thanks a lot and i am very appreciative.
Tyler
it kept moving so i bent it to fit nice and tight so that problems gone. And the tire isnt rubbing.
i had it running for a while today and it took forever to get it started then it was hard to get it warmed up to full power. Then my throttle stuck again so i adjusted the throttle and carb then it wouldnt start.
I think ts flooding itself really easily. I will try and get pictures up for you guys to see. the kit i have was bought on ebay and its that same Chinese 80cc kit all over the web. I am running it with the stock NT carb. \
if anyone has any feedback on why its not starting right up or on the flooding theory let me know. Thanks a lot and i am very appreciative.
Tyler
hey guys now for the last two days i cant seem to get this thing started.
it is driving me mad. ive checked the gap on my spark plug ,ive checked my wiring, ive tried with out my kill switch , I tried to spin my back wheel and look for a spark and im not getting one, i could be doing it wrong.
Ive asked so many people i know and know one around here seems to know these even exist. Let alone have a clue, i thought i was flooding it over and over but now i think its not sparking, ive tried 2 different plugs the stock one and a champion l86c.
I hate to put all this time and money into this for it just not to work. i know this could be a million things but am i missing something obvious. thank you
it is driving me mad. ive checked the gap on my spark plug ,ive checked my wiring, ive tried with out my kill switch , I tried to spin my back wheel and look for a spark and im not getting one, i could be doing it wrong.
Ive asked so many people i know and know one around here seems to know these even exist. Let alone have a clue, i thought i was flooding it over and over but now i think its not sparking, ive tried 2 different plugs the stock one and a champion l86c.
I hate to put all this time and money into this for it just not to work. i know this could be a million things but am i missing something obvious. thank you
How are you checking for spark? The plug must be grounded to the engine to make a complete circuit. Sorry if that seems elementary but many before you have held the plug in their hand without grounding it and determined that they had no spark.
If you are grounding the plug and still see no spark at the plug's electrodes, start checking your wiring connections. Don't trust the kit supplied plug-in connectors for the blue and black wire. They are notorious for bad electrical connections. We suggest soldering those splices and protecting them with heat shrink tubing.
Do you own or have access to an ohm meter? We can provide you with readings that will tell you if the ignition components are good or bad. Let us know if you need more help.
Tom
Tom
If you are grounding the plug and still see no spark at the plug's electrodes, start checking your wiring connections. Don't trust the kit supplied plug-in connectors for the blue and black wire. They are notorious for bad electrical connections. We suggest soldering those splices and protecting them with heat shrink tubing.
Do you own or have access to an ohm meter? We can provide you with readings that will tell you if the ignition components are good or bad. Let us know if you need more help.
Tom
Tom
i just took the spark plug wire out of the boot and there was no copper connection it was all down in the wire and none was showing at all to make the connection, so maybe that was it.
And i was checking for a spark wrong i didnt ground my wire. I am very new to
engines but i feel like im learning a little so thanks for the help guys ill check this
out and report back.
And i was checking for a spark wrong i didnt ground my wire. I am very new to
engines but i feel like im learning a little so thanks for the help guys ill check this
out and report back.
Good luck man, i know my lack of knowledge when I built mine, I couldnt get mine to start... the problem was that I didnt kno I had to remove the brass cap off the spark plug... it wouldnt fit, i actually busted the spark plug cap.. thankfully there is another guy in my town that is a seasoned vetran and gave me an extra.. I a shocked that it started when I took the brass cap off and it started for the first time.. what a sense of accomplishment..
I want you to have that feeling to man..
I want you to have that feeling to man..
So i had my bike running the other day for a while and after its running i can start up super easy. I switch to a better plug and plug wire.
it still seems as if there is not enough power i live around some hills ,and it doesnt seem to want to go up any of them.
but the last two days i cant get it to start again. because this is a new engine does it take a while to start or what.
I have done so much research and it is about as simple as an engine setup can be and nothing i do seems to help.
the way i got it to start is has someone hold the ass end up the bike and i had the clutch the whole way out and pushed on my pedal and it turned over and made the engine roar for a second so then i did that again took it on the street and it started right up.
The next day it started up with ease and now nothing again, does this sound like anything particular ,
thanks again and please feel free for any comments\
tyler
it still seems as if there is not enough power i live around some hills ,and it doesnt seem to want to go up any of them.
but the last two days i cant get it to start again. because this is a new engine does it take a while to start or what.
I have done so much research and it is about as simple as an engine setup can be and nothing i do seems to help.
the way i got it to start is has someone hold the ass end up the bike and i had the clutch the whole way out and pushed on my pedal and it turned over and made the engine roar for a second so then i did that again took it on the street and it started right up.
The next day it started up with ease and now nothing again, does this sound like anything particular ,
thanks again and please feel free for any comments\
tyler
You need at least 200 miles on a two stroke for it to run right. Nice and slow is the key. You run these motors hard, they don't last long. 
Turn on the gas, push the primer down for a second or two, then pull the choke up 1/2 to 3/4 and then pedal it kinda fast before you let the clutch out. If it doesn't start right away, twist the throttle a bit. They all seem to have a little different starting technique. Also you didn't say where your C clip is on the carb needle. Try the second notch from the top. Don't give up, they are an acquired taste! 
Finally, there are several theories as far as break in goes....just get it to run and ride it. After a few tanks of gas (mixed at 32:1 NOT 16:1 BTW) you'll start feeling more power.
Finally, there are several theories as far as break in goes....just get it to run and ride it. After a few tanks of gas (mixed at 32:1 NOT 16:1 BTW) you'll start feeling more power.
i see , i have only rode it prob 5 miles ,i have the c clip set to the instructed middle notch , i live in an area where i start it going down a hill, then every time it doesn't start push it up the hill..haha so i guess ill try it more than a few times .
i get tired quick. tonight i did a couple things to it like tried for a better seal from the carb to the intake manifold and made some better gaskets , i haven't gave up yet i think im in this project for the long haul.
im sure with all this good advice and other advice on the web ill get the kinks worked out. im gonna give this a nice long try tomorrow and ill let you guys know what turns up.. thanks again
Tyler
i get tired quick. tonight i did a couple things to it like tried for a better seal from the carb to the intake manifold and made some better gaskets , i haven't gave up yet i think im in this project for the long haul.
im sure with all this good advice and other advice on the web ill get the kinks worked out. im gonna give this a nice long try tomorrow and ill let you guys know what turns up.. thanks again
Tyler
so 16-1 is not the break in mixture, cause thats what i found everywhere. Or do you mean once i switch to the 32-1 mix
I run 25:1 (2/3 cup non-synthetic 2-stroke oil) per gallon for break in and 32:1 (1/2 cup synthetic) per gallon after a couple of tanks.
The real key is the fuel/air mix via the carb needle and not trying to just beat it to death wide open for long rides during break-in.
Give it a cool off rest every 15 minutes or so.
Break them in right and the motor gets stronger when you change mixes.
Run the piss out of it during break in and it gets worse.
