Getting First Start

GoldenMotor.com

LukeG

New Member
Sep 17, 2014
9
0
0
PA
Hello everyone,

I just finished installing my first bike engine, a 2-stroke 66cc Flying Horse that I bought from Bikeberry:

http://www.bikeberry.com/66-80cc-flying-horse-silver-angle-fire-bicycle-engine-kit-2-stroke.html

I have not been able to get the engine running yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Here's what I've tried so far:

1. Checked for a spark from the spark plug - Holding the spark plug against the engine head and spinning the rear tire with the engine engaged clearly produces sparks.

2. Started with a fuel:oops:il ratio of 18:1. When that didn't work, diluted the mixture to ~30:1. I'm using synthetic 2-cycle oil. The oil container says it's meant to be mixed at 50:1.

3. Disconnected both kill switch wires.

4. Drilled a small hole (I think 1/8") in the cap of the fuel tank.

5. Removed in-line fuel filter.

6. Added hose clamps to fuel line connections.

7. Rinsed out fuel tank, then let it dry completely.

8. Tuned the carburetor (adjusted the clip on the injector needle to each of the 5 settings).

Questions:

1. Looking at the carburetor from the front of the bike (the side where the large pipe comes into the carburetor), there are 2 switches: a white plastic one that rotates 360 degrees, and a metal one that rotates from West to North (only 90 degrees of movement). The metal one is marked with an arrow <---> and chinese symbols. Which is the choke? And what is the other one?

2. What is the exact process for starting the motor? I've been trying to pedal with the engine disengaged (which is easy - the engine doesn't resist it), getting a little bit of speed, then engaging the engine by letting the clutch in. The engine immediately applies resistance and I can hear the piston moving, but it doesn't sound like there's any combustion. I tried opening the throttle to various amounts while trying to start it.

Thanks!

Luke
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
158
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USA
from your description, I am not able to id your carb - site says standard NT carb which is not as you describe

I'd need a pic of what you have, but first thing would be to check if plug is wet after trying to start it.
 

Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
5,353
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Newnan,Georgia
That sounds like a nt speed carb with a gas shut off. The metal lever is the choke, lifting it up is choke applied. What I do is 1. Turn the fuel on and hold down the primmer on the lift side of the carb for about four seconds 2. Lift the choke lever and pedal to six to seven mph and release the clutch 3. When the engine starts firing I lower the choke slightly and stop while the engine warms 4. Once it warms to where I can lower the choke fully I pedal up to speed and then release the clutch. Enjoy the ride!

P.s. the white lever handle is on when it is aligned with the fuel line, off at a 90° angle.
Is the picture below your carb?

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...MygCMAI&iact=rc&uact=3&page=1&start=0&ndsp=18
 
Last edited:

LukeG

New Member
Sep 17, 2014
9
0
0
PA
Yes, my carb is right side up =P.

Greg58 - Yes, this:

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...MygCMAI&iact=rc&uact=3&page=1&start=0&ndsp=18

is my carburetor! It's hard to see in that picture, but there's a little metal lever behind the white one that I believe is the choke.

I followed your starting instructions (that's basically what I've been trying), and was still unable to get the engine started. It doesn't sound like there's any combustion going on. I confirmed that I'm still getting a spark out of the spark plug, and I can see gas flowing into the carburetor.

The folks at Bikeberry told me my engine might be flooded and that I should tip it upside-down for 24 hrs. to drain it. I tipped it over (with the carburetor taken off), and nothing has come out in the first 2 hours.
 

LukeG

New Member
Sep 17, 2014
9
0
0
PA
Have you tried pedalling really fast then dunping the clutch? It takes a fair bit of speed to get mine running.
Yup, I've tried that. Occasionally the back wheel will just skid when I engage the motor. Most of the time, I engage the motor and can hear the piston moving, but it doesn't sound like anything is combusting, and the bike just grounds to a halt from the friction.

I looked at the magnet, but was unable to get it off - torquing the bolt over the magnet just turns the whole assembly, even if I hold the back wheel and chain fixed.
 

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
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memphis Tn
Remove the spark plug and turn the engine until the piston is at the TOP of it's stroke.(Look in plug hole with a flashlight)
Then see where your magnet is at TDC (Top Dead Center)
If it looks like the one in my link above, there's your problem.
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
158
63
USA
looks like you have the piston a bit before TDC, but does not look like the rotor is reversed

if you stick a piece of fuel line into the plug hole, you can get the piston closer to TDC when rocking the back wheel forward & back doesn't raise the line any higher
 

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
0
memphis Tn
If your picture is showing your magnet when your engine is at TDC, you have one of the bad magnets.
Replace it and it should start.
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
158
63
USA
be sure your pic is EXACTLY at TDC (if you take off the nut, you'll see the key slot & can get a pic of that too)

nut can be removed by sticking a screwdriver between rotor & armature so it jambs while using a socket on the nut

if it does turn out to be at TDC, get in touch with your supplier about a replacement before doing anything more
 

LukeG

New Member
Sep 17, 2014
9
0
0
PA
Thanks everyone for the help. I got it running today by putting some teflon tape on the threads of the gas outlet from the tank, and taking the engine head off, switching around the bolts, and tightening them to about 15 ft-lb.