Well after finishing my first build during the engine break in process I made the mistake of mixing my first batch at 16:1 . So I finished that gallon then mixed a batch of Maxxim 927 at 32:1 . I went to retorque the head and discovered one of the head stud hole was stripped. Tragedy! So I pulled the head and jug off and cleaned all the gooey oil from the inside of the head and piston. I also cleaned out the oil that had built up inside the stock muffler.During this I found out the 2 inner baffle washers were bent back obviously by whomever assembled it forcing the end on and tightening it down without checking to see if the tube was going thru the holes in the washers. So I used a helicoil on the stripped hole but while retapping the hole there was so little meat between the edge of the hole and the edge of the case it actually chipped a piece off.Tragedy! So I got out some jb weld and patched it up and got the jug and head back on and torqued to spec (I'm torquing it to #15 lbs). She started right up and guess what? Quieter and smoother than ever before. Less vibration too. I take her for a spin and between the new mix,the colder air and the proper compression she feels like a different animal! Triumph! It revs way smoother than before and feels like it has twice the power. I weigh over 230lbs and she pulled hard! I can't believe the power difference. Now for my next build I cant wait to feel a dax balanced lower.
From triumph to tragedy to .....Triumph!
- Thread starter boocher13
- Start date
would you happen to have a picture of the inner baffle bent back washers ? I'm not sure where those are.
Wow good thing you asked for a pic cuz I went to use my spare kit's muffler for the pic and discovered it was bent as well. This rusty pic is from a muffler I have had in plastic still in the kit in it's original box. Check out how the 2 nearest washer are bent back,obviously the tube wasn't going thru them. Maybe another reason why the stock exhaust is considered so restricting? Mine were 2 for 2 both screwed up at the assembly plant.
Boocher, Just a suggestion but you might want to back off on your torque values a bit.
15 ft. pounds is on the extreme high end. You might want to consider dropping down to about 12.
A good ball park torque for the 8mm studs/nuts is 120 to 140 inch pounds. Also torque the studs into the case then torque the cylinder head nuts. Don't rely on the chrome acorn nuts and replace them with flanged (shouldered) hex nuts.
15 ft. pounds is on the extreme high end. You might want to consider dropping down to about 12.
A good ball park torque for the 8mm studs/nuts is 120 to 140 inch pounds. Also torque the studs into the case then torque the cylinder head nuts. Don't rely on the chrome acorn nuts and replace them with flanged (shouldered) hex nuts.
Thanks for the info. I thought I read on here somewhere to torque was recommended at 16-20 lbs which I thought was high so I went with 15. I know my Morini engine I only torqued the head to like 7.5 lbs or so .