Drum brakes in Monarch forks

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Greybeard

New Member
Feb 8, 2011
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Sequim WA
I'm putting a Worksman wheel in Monark forks. The Drum brake in the Worksman has a "fork" for lack of a better name to keep it from rotating. My plan was to drill the Monark fork leg and weld a hardened steel pin that would sit in the brake's "fork" and keep it from spinning. As I look at it, if I put the pin through the rear solid leg part of the Monark fork, as the wheel moves up and down it would try to loosen the inside axle nut on the brake. If I try to put the pin in the moving leg of the Monark, the brake line would be in a very awkward spot.
What have you guys done with this combo?
 

sportscarpat

Bonneville Bomber the Salt Flat record breaker
Jun 25, 2009
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Here is one way to do it. Weld the pin to the left rear shoulder bolt head. All the shoulder bolts should run with the head towards the wheel and the nylock on the outside. Norm showed me this trick.


Racer by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr
 

Greybeard

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Feb 8, 2011
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Sequim WA
Thanks Pat,

This fork had a Sturmy Archer on it, set up that way. I just got fixated on using the longer arms for their better leverage and totally lost track of how the other one was set-up.
It's **** being ADD and old.
 

Venice Motor Bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
Mar 20, 2008
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One of the things you must do when you add any front brake on a monark fork bike is to add extra large washers above the springs above the top spring plate!
The force of the brake pulling down on the springs can actually pull the spring struts out of the top plate using the small stock monark washers & cause a serious accident! :(
 

Greybeard

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Feb 8, 2011
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Sequim WA
Thanks everyone. It's on, and it'll work. Would like to get the angle of the brake line more vertical. I'm thinking of removing the brake bracket off the "fork" and welding it to a washer and putting it on the back fork leg. That would make it some better. The angle for the brake lever leaving the housing could be better, but I'm not sure I want to futz with that.
 

Venice Motor Bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
Mar 20, 2008
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It will only work if you weld the pin to the rear dropout bolt (like in Pat's picture)...
Any other place won't let the dropouts swivel properly during spring action!
 

Greybeard

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Feb 8, 2011
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Sequim WA
Norm
Sorry. I don't think I explained very well. I'm using the pin that you welded on chainmakers fork. I'm talking about the little brake cable bracket that's on the brake's "fork". Right now that brake cable will go almost straight back. I'd like to have it coming off less horizontal. So I was thinking of removing it from where it is on the brake, welding it on a washer that would fit behind the nylock.
 

Venice Motor Bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
Mar 20, 2008
7,266
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Los Angeles, CA.
Norm
Sorry. I don't think I explained very well. I'm using the pin that you welded on chainmakers fork. I'm talking about the little brake cable bracket that's on the brake's "fork". Right now that brake cable will go almost straight back. I'd like to have it coming off less horizontal. So I was thinking of removing it from where it is on the brake, welding it on a washer that would fit behind the nylock.
Ahhhh... Use a 'V' brake 90 degree 'noodle' to direct the cable up the fork leg. ;)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jagwire-Bra...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec23adc60
 
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Greybeard

New Member
Feb 8, 2011
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Sequim WA
Chain,
Thanks. Really a good word to describe it. Only a few people on a normal walk around catch on the the Olds is in there. The color ('65 factory color) was chosen as the most unlikely to be noticed. I spent 5 years hiding from a menopausal shrew during it's build.
It has not been down a dragstrip, but it has blown off a 7.6sec (1/8th) car by nearly 200' on a deserted piece of highway. It's launch, wheels up, is incredible and when it goes into 2nd it'll wheelie again. Although the big Olds isn't big on HP, the torque is ungodly in this build. Thanks for noticing!