Hmmm...Sounds like we need to find out how big the chainsaw is that this reed valve belongs to, then research a bigger chainsaw. I only hope this reed valve isn't the biggest they have.
Well, I know the piston port design was meant to use the natural direction of airflow and backpressure to keep the airfuel mix in the area of the cylinder just long enough for the piston to squeeze it and the spark to blast it. What I'm hoping a reed will do (which may be very little) is keep more of the airfuel mix in the cylinder, rather than some of it always blowing back up the intake manifold. On my old bike, it was never very serious, but it was always there. That's wasted power.
I'm about to try this, ordered the reed. I've been reading both the other threads and someone listed a port modification from Hodaka to control the case pressure. That tells me a reed could do something when added to an engine built without.
I'm still on the mend, so I haven't been able to do much tinkering on my end. But if you manage to get positive results yourself, please post. And let us all know how you did what you did, when you can. There are a few of us who want to try this. What you learn could pave the way.I'm about to try this, ordered the reed. I've been reading both the other threads and someone listed a port modification from Hodaka to control the case pressure. That tells me a reed could do something when added to an engine built without.
I'm guessing any reed from a saw shoule do, but I seriously dont know and will find out.
OK, so did you lower the intake port and cut holes in the piston?we tried using reed valves on the HT. didn't work out very well. the piston port is way different from a reed port or case port engine. you also need a good sized hole cut into the right spot on the piston skirt to use reeds on a jug inlet engine. heres what we came up with. but we gave up on it after finding a much better running engine by just raising the ports and using an expansion chamber exhaust.
