Cheap B@stard Dyno Build- HF79

I ordered a set of two 5/8" pillow block bearings thru ebay from vendor USA Bearings and Belts. I recieved them yesterday. These are self-aligning bearings that can be serviced. The pillow block is good quality, and it appears visually that the bearing is as well. Recommended, especially at this price ($15 for two bearings shipped).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390447746432?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

http://www.usabearingsandbelts.com/m7/UCP202-10--5-8-pillow-block-bearing-ucp202-10.html

Some new pics. First, I got the Whizzer replica 4 liter tank and checked the fit:





Next, I brazed up the gaping rust hole in the frame:



Then I spread the rear stays and opened up the dropouts so the Puch moped hub will fit:



Then finally sprayed all the bare spots with Rustoleum gloss black:



I think I am going to try to paint this frame using the Rustoleum foam brush method; this way I will be able to get nice thick coats with hopefully very little brush strokes. It's a cheap way to get frame coverage.

edit: Ahh screw it, I just finished spray bombing the rest of the frame with Rustoleum Gloss Black. Will let it dry for a day or two and keep adding a couple more coats.

professor said:

I am using complete Puch wheels and orig. tires on my bike #2.
They are a bit short but beefy.
I have heard that 20 inch bike tires fit them. You might think about going that route.
I also use the Puch engine drive sprocket after I ground it down to fit a narrower chain.

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professor, yes, I remember finding a pic of your bike #2 and posting it on my "Puch Moped Hub" thread. Heres the pic for everyone to see:



I am still going to try to go down the path of building up the 26" rims with the moped hub. By the way, I am planning on using #41 chain and it fits perfectly on the Puch engine side cog. Haven't tried the bicycle side freewheel yet to see if the regular bike chain will fit it?

Picture update:

Got the frame painted all one color. I just laid on two this coats of Rustoleum Gloss Black mainly to protect the frame. This will be the final color, but I suspect I'm gonna bang things up during the build, so let's consider this paint job temporary



Painted the handlebars (salvage from a 3 speed something). Same Gloss Black



Cleaned the rear Puch hub, greased everything and reassembled. Torn on whether to paint it

Will probably use this until something better comes along (I'm thinking banana seat)



Started to paint the rims



Rustoleum Gloss Fern Green. Going for a rat rod color scheme, but it won't be very ratty....



Wondering if I should paint the fenders this green color as well???

dracothered said:

The one I have found are for 1 1/8" mount and I am wondering if they would work on my Huffy that has 1" seat tube?

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I'll let you know soon. Supposedly they do work on 1" seat tube. I figure I can always shim it with .060" aluminum sheet all around to make up the difference.

Got the engine temporarily mounted.

Dan said:

Just a thought Atom, the long plug cap is a major PITA. I got all done mounting a Greyhound and it was awesome until I had to check the plug. LOL, had to take down the whole dang mount!

Looks close in the pics so thought I would mention it.

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Yeah, I was going to ask about the spark plug. Although the engine install looks slanted, that is due to how I have the frame mounted in the workstand. It should level out when the bike is sitting on it's wheels. Anyway, I have found that working with these cheap bolt-on 4 stroke engine mounts is a major PITA trying to get the right combination of angle and length, complicated a bit by the Dyno's frame curves. The pics show where I am at now, I suppose I could refine the mounting a bit more.

But I did notice the spark plug interference, and wonder if there is a cheap aftermarket boot or plug wire replacement that has a much shorter boot?

I did a trade-off between mounting the engine horizontal or vertical. The vertical pluses are looks good, engine fits well, easy engine mounting plate on seatpost. Downsides are need carb adapter to level it ($$$), weight of engine is not distributed on more than one tube, hard to change oil due to 79cc only has one oil filler (and it's pointing downward when engine is vertical). This would probably mean removing the engine to change the oil. Doesn't make sense.

The horizontal pluses are no carb adapter cuz the engine is sitting horizontal, easy to change oil, less risk of the engine being damaged due to non-extreme mounting angle, cranks may possibly pass under engine. Negatives are not as cool looking, have to buy or fab a mounting plate.

I'm still debating my decision since the mounting kit I bought is craptacular, but I can make it work I think. The Grubee mount looks much better than the one I bought.

culvercityclassic said:

I really like the way it is turning out... Dyno's rule

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Thanks, I'm hoping for a simple, reliable, decent looking motorbike.

Dan said:

"wonder if there is a cheap aftermarket boot or plug wire replacement that has a much shorter boot?"

Yeah, dime a dozen and I found slight a power increase with a better boot. Could have been just a bad original. I was doing a test on upgrades, plug etc. But the boot and wire did make a documented (here, somewhere) difference.

Plug boot and wire I got was an NGK but any would do I'm sure.

LOL @ "craptacular"

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Thanks Dan. I think I may have found at least the start of the discussion about better plug boots:

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=19256&page=4

This NGK boot does look much lower than the stock HF one.

So this evening I tried again to level the engine mount, the closest I could get was around 10 degrees off horizontal. And the engine mount was awkwardly assembled to get that; it really worked best as I showed it in the prior pictures, which was around 20 degrees off horizontal.

I wondered if there would be long-term oiling and/or carb issues being 20 degrees off horizontal. That, coupled with some encouragement from AGK in the "4 Stroke Mount" thread elsewhere led me to bite the bullet, admit that I made a poor decision buying that LuckyEarlyBird 4 stroke engine mount off ebay, and buy a better motor mount.

So I bought the "Black V-Frame Mounting Plate Kit" from bicycle-engines.com
http://www.bicycle-engines.com/Black-V-Frame-Mounting-Plate-Kit.html



I had been wanting this mount from the moment I saw it, which was about a nanosecond after I hit "Buy it Now" on the luckyearlybird ebay link...

The frame mounts on this one look to be alot better. I believe this is the Grubee 4 stroke mount.
One thing I really don't like about this cheaper 4 stroke mount (the LuckyEarlyBird one) is that the frame clamps are spaced so far apart, tightening the fasteners simply cause the clamp bracket to bend. Looking at the Grubee mount, it appears that the clamps will wrap around the tubes.

Again, on the cheaper mount, you can't really dial in the angle on the mount, it's relatively fixed, unless you don't want the horizontal plate sitting squarely on the frame clamps. The Grubee mount appears to offer slightly more adjust-ability.

We will see....

Dan, I think this new mount may solve the spark plug interference issue, but I'll still change the plug and boot out anyway.

Agghhh- disaster! Yesterday I applied a final color coat on my rims. They looked great, the Rustoleum went on smooth. About 5 or 6 hrs later, I decided to apply a coat of clear. The rims were totally dry to the touch, so I thought it would be OK. About 10 seconds before I started to apply the clear coat, I thought "maybe I should wait a full day or two before applying the clear because I thought I remember reading about how the solvents in the clear will attack the color coat if the color is not totally cured".....

Well, about 30 seconds after the clear was on the first rim, the paint started to look just as if I had applied paint stripper. Blistered, crazed, cracked paint...

I think I may take this opportunity to review my color choice. Think I might to both rims in black to match the frame, and paint the fenders this Fern Green color.