Broken Rear Studs

take to your local machine shop,they can do it for cheap or you can offer to work out a deal for labor by working in the shop.good exp. too.not a painter but a clean oil free surface is your best starting point.

There really isn't any obscure tricks to tapping holes, you must have taps and the tap wrench, a drill with high speed steel or cobalt bits of the size that the tap you're going to use requires, a stud wich will fit the retapped hole.

Drill straight into the hole with the right drill bit,
Use the tap wrench to screw in and out of the hole which will make the threads,
Put the stud in,
Put two nuts on the stud,
Turn one nut in, one nut out, this will make the two nuts to block each other,
Turn the nut that goes in further in (this will actually turn the stud because the nut will be blocked by the other nut),
Once you have a satisfying torque on the stud you can remove the torque on the nuts and remove them,
You now have a bigger, stronger stud in freshly tapped holes!

I hope that was clear, you could look up on youtube probably.

I too second the idea of taking the engine to a machine shop for broken stud extraction. If they have honest prices, it will cost waaay less than $70 to remove both studs.

As for painting, All I can say is proper prior preparation prevents piss poor performance.

Use lacquer thinner to remove any oily residue from the surface so the paint or primer will stick good. If you have used silicone sealant or any sort of silicone lubricant on any of the moving parts you will need to use a silicone cleaner as well. Paint will never stick properly to anything that has had any form of silicone on it. If you think you have cleaned it good enough, clean it again just to be sure. Get every nook and cranny clean. The time spent will be worth it.

If you want it to look glassy smooth, finish the material getting painted with 400 grit sand paper before applying the primer. Sand between each color coat with 800 to 1000 grit wet/ dry paper lubing the paper with a bucket of water that has 1 to 2 drops of dish soap mixed in it. After sanding clean the surface with a tack cloth before each coat.

In regards to the quality of show car finishes, for every coat of color that you can see, 7 have been sanded off.

If all you want is a new color with no regards to final finish, just clean and degrease it well and spray away.

vachon644 said:

There really isn't any obscure tricks to tapping holes...

Use the tap wrench to screw in and out of the hole which will make the threads...

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To clarify a bit - for the best cut threads & least chance of breaking taps/dies, use cutting fluid (or oil if lacking proper cutting fluid) & the technique I use for aluminum is for every one turn in - turn out one quarter (depends on density of alloy/depth of cut threads/size of tap/die), steel tends to be for every three quarter/half turn in, one quarter out.

Essentially it's a "feel" thing, when it starts to get somewhat more difficult to turn, back it out a bit. This helps clear the cutting edges & prevents binding.

Before drilling the stud out like BarelyAwake describes (which I support) , I'd first use a small drill bit then work up to a larger "LEFT" hand drill bit. The LH drill bit can work wonders (and pull the stud out) and re-taping won't come into play, just the tap (6mm X 1.0) to clean out the threads. Then install Grade 8.8 metric studs. Most studs (from the factory) are not bottomed out and torqued.

Al.Fisherman said:

Most studs (from the factory) are not bottomed out and torqued.

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Although this can be true, one must know that torquing down a stud will not change much as the nuts that are torqued down on the studs will prevent the studs from unscrewing and falling off. Though, if your mount happened to snap, you could lose a stud in the streets if it was too loose in it's threads.