HELP please:) Chain coming off ENGINE sproket and breaking in clutch housing.

check to be sure the rear sprocket is centered. It may be tight in one place and loose in another if it's off center on the hub.

I had this happen once trying to start it
chain was way too loose
this was the first couple starts so I had no idea how tight the chain needed to be

I also have slight wobble in rear sprocket and ive tried to fix a few times
with that rubber connector its just too hard to try to set it perfect, or its my wheel causing it

I have the same tight slack, then loose slack in my chain when I spin the wheel but its barely noticeable

I have switched to the KIP tensioner and its a blessing
since its spring loaded it always keeps proper tension
even though its alot of money so far its worth it, plus it really reduces the rolling noise

I would suggest buying a half link and maybe tighten the chain one link at a time and check the tensioner
I also found if the stock tensioner was closer to the rear sprocket it worked better for mine but I was told to keep it near the engine. Thats where I had issues with the stock one

my KIP tensioner is on the engine and seems to be doing a great job, I got the expensive one with the little sprocket on the end, instead of using the stock roller

I know those on a budget probably wont get the tensioner, but I figure $100 is a good investment since my setup isnt ideal
Cheaper then having to replace the whole engine if the chain trashes it and not even accounting for any damage to yourself too

Yup, I went thru that bit, too!

Good advice above. Sprockets MUST line up, AND be concentric.

IMO an expensive tensioner is not necessary, if everything is aligned properly.
Yet this will never be possible, for any extended period of time, when running a rag joint. It will ALWAYS move.
This is why I feel a clamshell sprocket adapter is a wise investment.

A few other things I should mention...

Do NOT pop the clutch for starting. This will probably pull the rear sprocket out of concentricity. (and make it run in an egg shape) EASE is out a bit, kinda... slip it out.

Make sure that your sprocket has the dish flipped the right way for chain alignment.

Cut a link from your chain to make it shorter, so the tensioner does NOT put a sharp angle in the chain... with the roller wheel all the way at the top of it's adjustment slot. Better to have it lowest in the adjustment slot so the torque of bump starting does not put a lot of pressure on it, pulling it in towards the spokes.

IF chain is still too long after removing ONE link, consider removing another link. Don't remove 2 right off the bat! lol Check first !
My own chain required removal of two links, but that's with MY bike frame.
Yours is probably different.

lol
Don't get frustrated at ur chinagirl... lol
They are a cheep date, so there's bound to be problems!
Ur gonna have SO MUCH FUN riding around this summer!

I'll post some pics if u really need 'em.
Best
rc

I glanced through the replies...I didn't see anything about bevel the teeth on the wheel sprocket, so there are no sharp teeth.

funny you say that
my sprocket is the flat type, not the dished like I see everyone else has
and I was told to face the bevel on the inside towards the spokes
the outside is flat

but why only one side, would it help if I beveled the outside since I still have a slight wobble, and what about the sprocket on the engine?

im also wondering if my wobble could be caused from the rubber pads having a large chunk missing from them, both came this way like a flatter spot

Yup!
Alf is right.
A very good idea to take a file to BOTH sides of the sprocket teeth.
...Just dress it a little bit, not a whole bunch.

...bbbut if you have thrown the chain and bound it up a couple times, already, there is a probability the link plates in these cheapo chains have gotten bent.
Might not hurt to lay it out in a line, on the cement slab, and inspect it a bit, for obvious problems now.

Good luck
rc

SdCruizer said:

funny you say that
my sprocket is the flat type, not the dished like I see everyone else has
and I was told to face the bevel on the inside towards the spokes
the outside is flat

but why only one side, would it help if I beveled the outside since I still have a slight wobble, and what about the sprocket on the engine?

im also wondering if my wobble could be caused from the rubber pads having a large chunk missing from them, both came this way like a flatter spot

Click to expand...

Bad thing about "FLAT" sprockets is that you are limited to adjustment Depending on a dished sprocket it may need the dish in some applications and on others the dish out to achieve the needed adjustment.(which I like best for obvious reasons). Remove the sprocket, lay on a flat surface and make sure that it is flat (I had one that wasn't). Check all the rag joints and pick out the 3 that are the same thickness and these will go between the sprocket and spokes. Best is a clam shell that clamps on the hub. You may need to use a washer or two to space out the sprocket. These will be installed between the sprocket and rag joint, but I've never had that problem. But before I used washers I''d go find a ole conveyer belt ( or something like that) and cut new ones. Even a semi truck flap will work. I'm sure that truck repair shops will have ones that they replace.

Al.Fisherman said:

Bad thing about "FLAT" sprockets is that you are limited to adjustment Depending on a dished sprocket it may need the dish in some applications and on others the dish out to achieve the needed adjustment.(which I like best for obvious reasons). Remove the sprocket, lay on a flat surface and make sure that it is flat (I had one that wasn't). Check all the rag joints and pick out the 3 that are the same thickness and these will go between the sprocket and spokes. Best is a clam shell that clamps on the hub. You may need to use a washer or two to space out the sprocket. These will be installed between the sprocket and rag joint, but I've never had that problem. But before I used washers I''d go find a ole conveyer belt ( or something like that) and cut new ones. Even a semi truck flap will work. I'm sure that truck repair shops will have ones that they replace.

Click to expand...

Im sure an offest sprocket would be ideal, since I had to shift my wheel over a touch anyways

Mine only came with the 2 rag joints so I was stuck with them
I dont understand why they sell them with flat spots I knew that would be an issue
I tried to put each flat spot 180 degree from each other but really I have no idea how to properly install them

I mean I got everything done and running but im sure there are alot of tricks I could learn

thanks for the tips

hey take a look at your tensioner alignment if you have tapered chain stays the roller may not be inline with the chain. I used thick piece of rubber to shim the mounting clamp (piece of old grip) after a chain dump and 3 broken links on one side I trashed the china chain it came with 410 and replaced it with garage door operator chain same size good quality and tough filed the burrs off the gears caused by the dump adjusted the tensioner angle and no problems since

Ah the magic to the site! I love looking and reading the problems I may have and learning ahead of the curve

I'm over the hill in Terrebonne about 15 miles north of Bend. hey you might want to keep an eye on the rubber shims after several weeks and many rides they began to compress and loosen up. I used a 1982 schwinn King sting that has a real steep taper on the chain stay. did some bending and added a metal shim but now have some vibration am going to add a layer of inner tube to see is i loose the vibration again. the rubber seams to help keep the Braket from twisting toward the spokes. how long have you had your bike? and with summer comin are you plannin any rides? are you thinkin about doin the DMV thing?