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  #31  
Old 12-30-2016, 12:45 PM
DarkWolf2k DarkWolf2k is offline
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Default Re: Engine won't start.

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Originally Posted by DarkWolf2k View Post
Warning: Do not use BPR6HSA as a replacement spark plug!!!!! It has apparently hit the top of the piston and slightly scratched it. I will be getting a B6HS or B5HS.
By slightly I mean there is luckily a small area about 3/4 the size of the end of a pen with a very small indent instead of a larger bigger gouge. THE BPR6HSA WAS SUGGESTED BY O'Reilly's STAFF so watch the size of your spark plugs and always compare them. The Z4C stock chinese plug linked the O'Reilly's staff to that certain plug. This is the first bike I've worked on and I was lucky to not destroy something instantly if I haven't already.
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  #32  
Old 12-30-2016, 12:57 PM
crassius crassius is offline
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Default Re: Engine won't start.

also, I never recommend any type of resistance plug or cap for these
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  #33  
Old 12-30-2016, 02:00 PM
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Agreen Agreen is offline
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Default Re: Engine won't start.

Dude any auto parts store will recommend "better" spark plugs. Usually they are platinum or iridium and cost more.

So did the gap get closed off?
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  #34  
Old 01-02-2017, 09:18 PM
DarkWolf2k DarkWolf2k is offline
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Default Re: Engine won't start.

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Originally Posted by Agreen View Post
Dude any auto parts store will recommend "better" spark plugs. Usually they are platinum or iridium and cost more.

So did the gap get closed off?
They didn't recommend them because they were "better" but because those were the only ones their systems could connect to the stock spark plug numbers from China or w/e. The gap got closed off. I dropped a B5HS in it. It works but I'm afraid at what cost if there's metal fragments running around in the chamber. I'm glad it's not mine cause the owner wants to keep running it without taking it apart and actually checking. Which I told him is a bad idea if he wants to keep it for awhile but w/e. All this experience I'm sure I'll probably end up buying one myself. The B5HS has a more flat tip like the stock plug. The other one my friend ended up buying wasn't even that far off of stock but it's a slant head so I guess that small clearance in the chamber makes all the difference. Anyway. I got the fuel mixture as close as I can for now. I think the throttle cable needs to be adjusted where it connects to the carb. Seems like it's causing it to be pulled slightly as the idle always seems a little too high. Since I learned better how to tell if it's flooding or if it's lean I've pretty much been able to keep it going nonstop now that the spark plug deals been taken care of.
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  #35  
Old 01-02-2017, 10:04 PM
crassius crassius is offline
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Default Re: Engine won't start.

I like enough slack in throttle cable to be able to lift it about 1/8in before it pulls the slide up.
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  #36  
Old 01-04-2017, 11:00 PM
DarkWolf2k DarkWolf2k is offline
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Default Re: Engine won't start.

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I like enough slack in throttle cable to be able to lift it about 1/8in before it pulls the slide up.
I like it to be a bit tight with just a hair or two of slack. Any info on running in cold / humid climate? Every time it gets cold around here it's literally a wall of mist everywhere that isn't directly in town and sometimes part of town too. It'll go for another 10-15 minutes before starting to act up in the mist. I read that fuel is denser and oil is harder to move so I was thinking a hotter plug on it when the cold sets in at night. Like 6 or 7 during day and a 4 or 5 at night.
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  #37  
Old 01-04-2017, 11:03 PM
DarkWolf2k DarkWolf2k is offline
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Default Re: Engine won't start.

In other news another friend of mine bought an 80cc out of a shop and one of his engine mount bolts broke off in less than 2 weeks. Lol.
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  #38  
Old 01-05-2017, 12:05 PM
crassius crassius is offline
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Default Re: Engine won't start.

goal is to make motor tight in frame, NOT to make mount bolts tight
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  #39  
Old 01-05-2017, 09:09 PM
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Agreen Agreen is offline
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Default Re: Engine won't start.

How cold, and how much of a temperature swing are we talking about here?
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