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2 Stroke Bicycle Engines & Kits 2 stroke engine kits need careful installation and setup, find out how from our professionals here!

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  #11  
Old 09-10-2010, 01:54 AM
KCvale KCvale is offline
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Default Re: Clutch cable and clutch adjusting procedures.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GearNut View Post
Do as KCvale shows with the screwdriver trick to loosen it up.
Pay close attention as to where the screwdriver is positioned. You absolutely do not want to put any pressure on the center release shaft bolt.
Absolutely crucial to not try to use the center shaft as a lever point.
Thanks for making a special point about that gearnut, no such thing as stressing that enough.

All you need is 2 of the 3 drive pins to wedge against to break that bearings dried grease free.

If you followed all the directions, and the clutch plate moves away from the pads when you pull it, that bearing is pretty much the only thing left to lock it to not free turning.

The bottom line however is, with the left cover on and the right off, if pulling in the clutch does not push the silver friction plate away from the pads you can 'flower nut' adjusting yourself to death but it will not compensate for an improperly adjusted cable to begin with is all.
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Last edited by KCvale; 09-10-2010 at 02:02 AM.
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  #12  
Old 09-10-2010, 02:10 AM
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bairdco bairdco is offline
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Default Re: Clutch cable and clutch adjusting procedures.

is it just me, or does it seem like there's a lot more clutch problems happening lately?
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  #13  
Old 09-10-2010, 01:31 PM
ncfootballchamp ncfootballchamp is offline
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Default Re: Clutch cable and clutch adjusting procedures.

can you guys please give me a picture to go off of because I don't know the terms you're using.

A picture of what "to wedge against to break that bearings dried grease free"

Thanks so much
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  #14  
Old 09-11-2010, 12:37 AM
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GearNut GearNut is offline
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Default Re: Clutch cable and clutch adjusting procedures.

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Originally Posted by ncfootballchamp View Post
can you guys please give me a picture to go off of because I don't know the terms you're using.

A picture of what "to wedge against to break that bearings dried grease free"

Thanks so much
Here, post 5 in this very same thread:
http://motorbicycling.com/f4/clutch-...res-22726.html

Third picture down.
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Last edited by GearNut; 09-11-2010 at 12:41 AM.
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  #15  
Old 09-11-2010, 12:09 PM
ncfootballchamp ncfootballchamp is offline
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Default Re: Clutch cable and clutch adjusting procedures.

Ok thanks but i still don't understand what i'm supposed to be doing. I mean my engine looks a lot like the picture minus all the usage. I can't see any dried grease, except maybe around the edge where the friction plates are
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  #16  
Old 09-11-2010, 02:35 PM
KCvale KCvale is offline
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Default Re: Clutch cable and clutch adjusting procedures.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ncfootballchamp View Post
Ok thanks but i still don't understand what i'm supposed to be doing. I mean my engine looks a lot like the picture minus all the usage. I can't see any dried grease, except maybe around the edge where the friction plates are
You can't see the dried grease.
It is in the Bearing Seam.



The outer part is the clutch pads and gear to the motor.
The inner part (with the 3 studs) is what the pressure plate mounts over the 3 studs, held in place with the Flower Not, and transfers the drive across to the drive sprocket when they come in contact.

You break it free as indicated by using 2 of the 3 studs (and not the middle one), and make sure your back wheel is free to move.

Also note that is the same un-run motor in the first pic, I just took the pic after I had greased it up.
For those I seemed to have made no sense to with a little grease on the pads, that is what I mean.
So light a coating on the pads you can't even tell, but a bit of 'limited slip' for when the clutch engages is all.

Properly adjusted these clutches haven't given me any operation problems.
It is just when you are not buying brand new motors the grease in that bearing will have dried out and lock up.
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Last edited by KCvale; 09-11-2010 at 02:53 PM.
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  #17  
Old 09-11-2010, 07:40 PM
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bairdco bairdco is offline
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Default Re: Clutch cable and clutch adjusting procedures.

please, please, PLEASE, stop telling people that you put dabs of grease on your clutch pads.

i understand that you think it works for you, but it is NOT a good idea. anybody who's ever blown a seal in a transmission can tell you what grease does to a dry friction clutch disc. grease will make a clutch slip. it can saturate the pads and ruin them. the clutch pads are supposed to be dry.

since you won't stop telling people to grease them, i won't stop telling people NOT to.

here's a FAQ from Centerforce Performance Clutches. (i realize they don't make a clutch disc for our bikes, but it's the same principals involved.)

WHAT COULD BE THE CAUSES FOR CLUTCH CHATTER?
#14 Oil Or Grease Contamination On Clutch Facings.

WHAT COULD BE THE CAUSE FOR IMPROPER CLUTCH RELEASE?
#18 Oil Or Grease Contamination On Clutch Facings.

WHAT ARE THE POSSIBLE CAUSES FOR CLUTCH SLIPPAGE?
#4 Clutch Assembly Contaminated With Grease/Oil

bottom line, these are DRY FRICTION clutches, and should NEVER have any grease or oil on them.
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  #18  
Old 09-11-2010, 09:16 PM
Creative Engineering Creative Engineering is offline
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Default Re: Clutch cable and clutch adjusting procedures.

In addition, it is impossible for dried out grease to lock-up the clutch.

Look at the 3D animations in this thread and you will see how the clutch works.

http://motorbicycling.com/f30/animat...mbly-8939.html

Consider the amount of torque that is being applied to the internal components shown in the exploded view. Dried grease would be no match for the torque at the rear wheel that is transferred through the countershaft.

On some engines the clutch friction material is a bit gummy and sticky as opposed to the typical hard dry friction material. From the time the engine is assembled, until the end-user installs it...it could be months. Months of sitting there with heavy spring pressure compressing the gummy friction material.

This will cause the friction material to stick to both the pressure plate and the inner hub.

It is very rare that it is necessary to free-up the inner hub in order to get the bike to roll. Simply remove the cover, pull the clutch lever, and pop the pressure plate loose with a flat tip screwdriver.

Now...If you really want to make a BIG difference in your clutch...remove the friction pieces and trim them slightly along the edges so that they float in the gear...not a light press fit. This will give you a positive engagement at both the inner hub and the pressure plate effectively doubling your useable clutch friction surface. This is how the clutch was designed and was intended to work. On most of these engines the friction material is just crammed into the gear.

Try it on your next build KC...you'll like it! Hint...prior to doing the screwdriver thing in order to free up the dried grease...remove the friction material from the gear first. You will then find that the hub with the three pins spins completely free...dried grease and all.

Again...refer to the animations...the clutch is incredibly simple.

Jim

Last edited by Creative Engineering; 09-12-2010 at 08:21 AM.
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  #19  
Old 02-20-2011, 11:59 PM
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txlixard469 txlixard469 is offline
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Question Re: Clutch cable and clutch adjusting procedures.

ay gear head i hearing some squeeking in my clutch iI put ol in where the sprocket is and the squeeking went away for a bit but returned can u help me out b4 it gets to bad.
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  #20  
Old 02-21-2011, 09:01 PM
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GearNut GearNut is offline
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Default Re: Clutch cable and clutch adjusting procedures.

Oil does not belong in the gear case of these engines. You will run a high risk of it getting inside the clutch and contaminating the friction pads. Use a quality high temp grease to lube the gears. Use only a pea sized blob placed right where the gears mesh together. It will spread itself around as you ride. Any more than a pea sized blob will just get things really messy in there really fast and will not lubricate the gears any better.

Also grease the ball bearing inside the hollow gear shaft and the release arm in the side cover.

Also, have you lubricated the clutch hub bearings recently?
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Does not come with a fortune cookie."
________________________
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