hey guys, ive noticed that the clutch on my motorized bike starts to engage even when i adjust it to engage when i am about to fully let out the clutch lever, idk why its happening and it seems to only happen when the engine is hot but idk if thats the case all the time. has anyone experienced this issue? btw when this issue is happening the engine has a hard time idling and if i get off the bike and fully disengage the clutch while i lift to rear wheel off the ground the rear wheel starts to spin. thanks
clutch starts to engage while lever is fully pulled in after a long ride?
- Thread starter motor-bike80
- Start date
Here is a very good tutorial on proper clutch adjustment.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=22726
The clutch cable will stretch a little initially requiring some adjustment in cable tension. That can cause your problem.
Tom
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=22726
The clutch cable will stretch a little initially requiring some adjustment in cable tension. That can cause your problem.
Tom
thanks, could it be that the screw in my clutch arm isn't tightened enough and the cable slowly slips through the clutch arm, i haven't got the stock screw that hold in the clutch cable, i lost it and i found another screw that fits the hole, lucky, but i cant tighten that screw all the way because i starts to slip but it hold the cable in tight enough i think, anyway, i am using a brand new clutch cable maybe its stretching but i also had this probelm with an old clutch cable. could it be because i am too harsh on the clutch? i doubt it, i think if that was teh case the clutch wouldnt engage as much,right?
If you've followed the clutch adjustment procedures correctly then you might be right about the cable slipping/stretching.
If you have a hobby shop near you you can find a good replacement for the cable stop. Ask for a 1/16" wheel collar. They are used on model airplanes on the axles to hold the landing gear wheels on. They typically have Allen head cap screws in place of the slotted screw that comes in the kit.
Here's a suggestion: With a new or replacment clutch cable, leave the clutch lever in the locked (clutch disengaged) position when the bike is parked and not being ridden. This will hasten the cable stretch process so you won't have to do it as often. All cables will stretch a little. The force needed to actuate (disengage) the clutch is more than standard bicycle brake cables normally see. They will stretch a little and it doesn't take much to adversely effect clutch operation.
Tom
If you have a hobby shop near you you can find a good replacement for the cable stop. Ask for a 1/16" wheel collar. They are used on model airplanes on the axles to hold the landing gear wheels on. They typically have Allen head cap screws in place of the slotted screw that comes in the kit.
Here's a suggestion: With a new or replacment clutch cable, leave the clutch lever in the locked (clutch disengaged) position when the bike is parked and not being ridden. This will hasten the cable stretch process so you won't have to do it as often. All cables will stretch a little. The force needed to actuate (disengage) the clutch is more than standard bicycle brake cables normally see. They will stretch a little and it doesn't take much to adversely effect clutch operation.
Tom
thanks 2door, that's what i always do, i never leave my clutch disengaged when the bike is sitting, i always leave the clutch leave 100% released because that stops tension on the cable. i am also goign to order a clutch lock thing, its like the wheel collar that you suggested, it only cost 2 dollars anyway, thanks!
do you guys know of any benifit you can get by changing the front sprocket of the engine? (the sprocket thats on the engine) like cam i get more torque or cand i get more speed by making it either bigger or smaller? i might be gettign a 60 tooth sprocket for my bike, what should i expect? will it do wheelies? how fast will it go? thanks
I have the gear ratio program (available somewhere on this forum). I put in a 60 tooth rear, everything else standard, for a 26" wheel.
You would have a drive ratio of 24.6 to 1 (man that's low)
@ 7000 RPM you're speed would be 22 mph.
I dunno about pullin a wheelie, but I guess it might.
You would have a drive ratio of 24.6 to 1 (man that's low)
@ 7000 RPM you're speed would be 22 mph.
I dunno about pullin a wheelie, but I guess it might.
yeah even though the speed is low, i think torque is the most important factor because i like to climb hills, i think ill go faster though idk why, my engine revs high at top speed and it 3 years old
I ran it again, to get there you'll need to hit about 7700 RPM.
Not too bad, that's doable I think.
Good luck!
thanks! what do you guys think about wheelies? will i be able to yank up the bars and giver throttle to get the front wheel up?
