Internal shifting hubs

GoldenMotor.com
Ratt_Bones

Ratt_Bones

New Member
Aug 2, 2013
153
0
0
Appleton, Wi.
Has anyone had any issues with mounting the engine sprockets to 3 or 5 speed internal shifting hubs? Spacing is the main concern I have. I just honestly never paid much attention to these as I've never had much use for them. Although I'm sure the hub body is still 110mm spacing, I'm not sure about the flange spacing (or general "zone"), or the hub body O.D. which may involve some machining to the sprocket.

It seems these measurements are rather unimportant for manufacturers, and dealers to list as opposed to most higher end quality hubs on the market.


Thanks!
 
Sidewinder Jerry

Sidewinder Jerry

Well-Known Member
Dec 19, 2011
2,008
949
113
61
Rockwood, TN
Many of the builders who've used internal hubs combine them with a shiftkit. Then they put a disk brake on the left side. One could build a 3 speed automatic using a Shimano Nexus 3 speed hub, shiftkit and a Kilduff shifter. Brian Kilduff makes two kinds of shifters one is rim driven the other is belt and pulley driven.
 
Ratt_Bones

Ratt_Bones

New Member
Aug 2, 2013
153
0
0
Appleton, Wi.
LR Jerry said:
Many of the builders who've used internal hubs combine them with a shiftkit. Then they put a disk brake on the left side. One could build a 3 speed automatic using a Shimano Nexus 3 speed hub, shiftkit and a Kilduff shifter. Brian Kilduff makes two kinds of shifters one is rim driven the other is belt and pulley driven.
Click to expand...
I wanted to stay away from the shift kits, and stick with the bike being the bike, and the engine being the addition if that makes sense. Although a shift kit would be the "best" way to go in this instance, it would take away from the look/theme of the bike. I'm not too worried about using the gears as a way of gaining speed or what have you. I'm sitting at 43mph right now. Probably more when I finish the cold gas line, exhaust, etc. It's more for the vintage/rat rod style and look.

Thanks for the input!
Much appreciated.
 
2door

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
If not using the so-called, 'shift kit' the rear hub isn't really subjected to any stress from motorizing a bike.
I have several hundred miles on two Nexus 3 speed internal hubs with no problems whatsoever. Adding the shifter will require some beef back there especially if you're into power shifting. New axles and a good quality hub is a advisable.

Just pedaling to start the engine isn't subjecting the stock hub to any abuse above what it would normally get. I actually never use the gears. I keep them in 2nd gear for easy pedaling starts and then the pedals are just foot rests.

Proper lubrication is essential however in the hub bearings and both chains. But that goes without saying.


Tom
 
Ratt_Bones

Ratt_Bones

New Member
Aug 2, 2013
153
0
0
Appleton, Wi.
2door said:
If not using the so-called, 'shift kit' the rear hub isn't really subjected to any stress from motorizing a bike.
I have several hundred miles on two Nexus 3 speed internal hubs with no problems whatsoever. Adding the shifter will require some beef back there especially if you're into power shifting. New axles and a good quality hub is a advisable.

Just pedaling to start the engine isn't subjecting the stock hub to any abuse above what it would normally get. I actually never use the gears. I keep them in 2nd gear for easy pedaling starts and then the pedals are just foot rests.

Proper lubrication is essential however in the hub bearings and both chains. But that goes without saying.


Tom
Click to expand...
I was more curious about running into mounting issues Hub body and flange widths, etc.
 
2door

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
Ratt_Bones said:
I was more curious about running into mounting issues Hub body and flange widths, etc.
Click to expand...
One of my Nexus hubs has a rag joint and the other a hub/sprocket adapter. No problems with either method. The Nexus 3 speed is an oddball size so a sprocket adapter made for it is necessary. And naturally they're about twice the price of a standard adapter. The rag joint has performed perfectly and it was cheap, cheap. Of course the success of a rag joint is totally dependent on careful and proper installation. It must be concentric with the hub and the sprocket can't have any wobbles.

Spoke count also has to be considered. The rag and the adapter are both designed to be used with a 36 spoke wheel. Some have fudged on this but I wouldn't try squeezing them into a 32 spoker.

Tom
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom