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FROM: MEASURE TWICE
AFTER THOUGHT, AND OTHER FIXES FOR CARB.....
I was thinking about this and Corgi1 had must have thought what may actually be happening if tilted far forward, like looks like 45 degrees.
The counter weight on the crankshaft although not extending as far as the splash fork connected to the bolts at the bottom of the connecting rod, would probably be splashing oil that was in the sump.
This type of arrangement is an oil sump moved to from the bottom of the crankcase, to basically half on the bottom of the crankcase and half on the front of the crankcase.
Anyone with x-ray vision care to tell us for sure what is happening?
Only thing that would show up being a problem that I could think of now is too much oil, not just splash on the bottom of the piston to cylinder wall, for the oil scraper ring to deal with. Then a smoky exhaust would have happened, which I guess it had not got to that extent and works OK, so it does not matter.
With my 22.5 degree forward tilt on the engine on my frame, I thought that I would have a little higher up oil level in the sump in the crankcase aft. This is getting close to the camshaft and valve tappets and oil breather. The oil breather choking with oil would be bad, as it is just for venting pressure in the crankcase and sending oil vapor back to the carburetor to burn along with fresh air fuel mixture. What I did notice is that the oil breather uses a channel that has a guard in the crankcase to prevent oil from splashing in it. It is the curved metal portion that the oil vapor pressure has to snake up and around before it ends up where the bottom of the valves are. The oil vapor plays a novel idea besides venting oil vapor pressure, helps lubricate the bottom of the valves where the springs are, that is neat.
I did see somewhere about some guy taking two Briggs Vertical Shaft lawn mower engines, each somewhere in the 3 to 5 hp range each as I best can recall, and make a single engine with one head if you please. The 1 spark plug with both piston heads timed to compress simultaneously. Too bad he did not have auto compression release to help start the thing. But I bring this up because at the time the guy mentions that he had not gotten a way for the oil to be used in the crankcase and instead used a lot of grease and ran only for short periods. Another reason, and I not sure why he could not fabricate for the trial run with a better than high temp RTV for the head gasket, but that was another reason he had to limit the run time. Maybe you all have seen the video on Youtube.
Something maybe of use on to someone that had to find a way of removing a cylindrical main fuel nozzle in the bowl of a carburetor is this. I was following the instructions manual on this outboard motor on which way to put the cylindrical main fuel nozzle back in once I cleaned it with compressed air.
I had not noticed the very slight difference in diameter of the ends of the cylindrical main fuel nozzle and referred to the manual.
I could have if I’d known had the carburetor inverted so that when I unscrewed the main jet, the cylindrical main fuel nozzle would not have fallen out, with me no seeing which way it fell out. At least I had the forethought to get a cookie sheet with rimed edges to catch parts that fall out during disassembly and not roll off a table into the lawn to try and use a metal detector to find later.
The thing with this Honda manual is what I may get to contacting them about, but if I had looked over the whole page carefully, I would have noticed that the inset for the direction of the cylindrical main fuel nozzle was carefully shown in the correct direction with an arrow. That is correct in the inset, but just the opposite in the smaller exploded view. I have the thought of scanning the drawing of the part in the exploded view, printing it out, the covering the wrong view of it in the manual by pasting it back in the page over it correctly.
The cylindrical main fuel nozzle got jammed in when I tried to put the main fuel jet screw in on top of it, but the threads would not engage. When I realized that there were two sets of threads and one was larger than the other, I had then known that the cylindrical main fuel nozzle was not going in far enough. Then I figured I would remove it and see if I could see find out what was the problem. I picked out one of those large curved sewing needles that are used to sew shoes with. I put the pointed end inside the end of the cylindrical main fuel nozzle. I then put sideways tension on the needle and tried to twist and pull the cylindrical main fuel nozzle out. When this did not work, I was about to give up, but got the idea to use the eye of the large curved sewing needle in the end of the cylindrical main fuel nozzle. Then I found that the two metal sides of the eye of the needle were compressing slightly when inside the end of the cylindrical main fuel nozzle. It enabled me to pull and twist the cylindrical main fuel nozzle out. Once out I held the nozzle in one hand and pulled the eye of the needle out. Only for a few very small scrapes on the inside of the nozzle nothing was damaged. The holes in the side of the nozzle left undamaged and I noticed that I could now put the cylindrical main fuel nozzle back in with the smaller diameter end so that it seated all the way down properly. The threads worked and finally with float and needle valve and gasket back in place I put the bowl back on with the washer and fuel drain and it’s threads worked OK too. The only problem after that was getting all the areas of the fuel tank, lines, bowl, jets, and nozzles all primed and the engine worked fine after a long time of one and a half years drained of all fuel in tank and carburetor.
Tools, you can’t have too many of them, and knowing how to improvise with them, indispensable!
PS the idea came to me today. Sometime with a twist on what Whizzer uses.
I HAVE AN IDEA FOR THE PULLEY ATTACHMENT SHIM PROBLEM ON MY REAR WHEEL FOR V-BELT DRIVE. I am going to go out looking for small U-bolts, or made parts myself to grab points where spokes cross one another and attach to the wood sandwich and washing machine pulley. Then I have almost to the point of trial run ready to go!
Aint the smiles on this site great, I just found Smiles(More) and this looks like me with the hub problem
MEASURE TWICE
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