CLUTCH ARM hits Bicycle Frame!!

GoldenMotor.com

vwine

New Member
Jan 27, 2010
93
0
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36
germany
My clutch arm on my 2 stroke 50 cc engine hits the bicycle Vframe... err.

If i put it on one side of the pole it disengages the clutch. But on the other side it permanently engages the clutch. I dont know what to do.. I cant cut the clutch arm can to shorten it can i?

This is my first project. Also when I roll my bike about 5 feet fully assymbled. the chain pops off and gets tangled in my sproket.. It only takes 3 to 5 feet for that to happen.... HELP:-||
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
Vwine,
We're going to need some pictures to help you. I can't see how the clutch arm can hit the frame. You can post pictures just not links until you've become an active member. Follow the instructions under 'manage attachments' when you start a thread or use the 'Go Advanced 'buttom below the 'Quick Reply' box.
As for the chain coming off: Chain and sprocket alignment is the most challenging part of the motor kit installation. The tensioner bracket must be bent (twisted) slightly to allow the tensioner wheel to align with the chain path. The rear sprocket must be precisely centered on the rear hub with no wobble. Chain tension should be about 1/2 to 3/4" of slack on the top chain when you move the bike forward. Get us those photos of your clutch interference problem and we'll get you going.
Tom
 

vwine

New Member
Jan 27, 2010
93
0
0
36
germany
Vwine,
We're going to need some pictures to help you. I can't see how the clutch arm can hit the frame. You can post pictures just not links until you've become an active member. Follow the instructions under 'manage attachments' when you start a thread or use the 'Go Advanced 'buttom below the 'Quick Reply' box.
As for the chain coming off: Chain and sprocket alignment is the most challenging part of the motor kit installation. The tensioner bracket must be bent (twisted) slightly to allow the tensioner wheel to align with the chain path. The rear sprocket must be precisely centered on the rear hub with no wobble. Chain tension should be about 1/2 to 3/4" of slack on the top chain when you move the bike forward. Get us those photos of your clutch interference problem and we'll get you going.
Tom
Hey, Here is a pic.. Thanks for taking intrest for me. If I did something completely wrong... Please take it easy on me haha i am new to this. lol
 

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Cabinfever1977

New Member
Mar 23, 2009
2,288
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Upstate,NY
Thats a small bike, looks even smaller than a 24".
The only thing i can say is go get a bigger bike, a full size 26".

The only thing i can think of is probally to raise your motor up higher,if theres room,but i can't see how high up the top frame is.

After looking at the pics again it looks like youre not using a mounting block on the rear mount,that would raise the motor higher for the clutch lever to clear.

Can you take a pic from a little farther away.
 
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vwine

New Member
Jan 27, 2010
93
0
0
36
germany
Thats a small bike, looks even smaller than a 24".
The only thing i can say is go get a bigger bike, a full size 26".

The only thing i can think of is probally to raise your motor up higher,if theres room,but i can't see how high up the top frame is.

After looking at the pics again it looks like youre not using a mounting block on the rear mount,that would raise the motor higher for the clutch lever to clear.

Can you take a pic from a little farther away.
I uploaded a pic of the bike. It is a 26".
 

Cabinfever1977

New Member
Mar 23, 2009
2,288
1
0
Upstate,NY
Omg it looks like a copy of a 26" roadmaster sx sport,but anyway you got to raise your motor up higher by using a mounting block on the rear. You might be able to turn the head around so the plug slants toward the front of the bike.

O i see you're from Germany, welcome to the forum.
 
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2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
Vwine,
I'm going to admit that I have little experience with the new GenII engines but it is apparent that the design has changed from the older style motors in regards to the clutch actuator linkage. The only thing I can see that might clear the interference is by slightly tilting the motor forward in the frame. From the photos I can't see how the mounts are contacting but they should come close to matching the angle of the frame 'V'. If there is any way to loosen your mounts and drop the front lower and raise the rear, try that. The clutch arm is in a different location than the older style motors and I can see where that position will cause your problem. Bending the clutch arm, or shortening it might help but shortening it will change the geometry and make the clutch harder to pull.
I do see a couple of issues with your installation that you need to address. The wiring is not going to last long where it is. Your foot will eventually tangle in the wires and pull them apart. I'd move the CDI to the down tube and you should solder those connections and protect them with heat shrink tubing. I think I can see some rubber between the front mount and the frame. Remove it and bolt the engine tight to the bike without any cushioning. The resilient mount will cause vibration and mounting fastener failure. Later there will be others to offer advice and some of them surely have had experience with the new GenII kits and maybe they have encountered this clutch arm problem. Keep watching your thread for more help.
Tom

I just read Cabinfever's reply and I agree. It would appear that you did not use the extra rear spacer that I've heard comes with the GenII. That would move the engine up and away from the seat tube. The spacer should be exactly like the one you have installed. Did you have two aluminum parts and only used one?
 
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vwine

New Member
Jan 27, 2010
93
0
0
36
germany
Thats a small bike, looks even smaller than a 24".
The only thing i can say is go get a bigger bike, a full size 26".

The only thing i can think of is probally to raise your motor up higher,if theres room,but i can't see how high up the top frame is.

After looking at the pics again it looks like youre not using a mounting block on the rear mount,that would raise the motor higher for the clutch lever to clear.

Can you take a pic from a little farther away.
PROBLEM Solved... Thanks to both of you that helped me.. The chain and the Motor mounting is figured out. Thanks alot guys!
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
2Door gives CabinFever a high five :)... Enjoy the bike, Vwine and feel free to ask if you have other issues. Ride careful, have fun.
Tom
 

Cabinfever1977

New Member
Mar 23, 2009
2,288
1
0
Upstate,NY
He couldn't do that cause that clutch arm needs room to swing back and forth when engaging and disengaging the clutch. But anyway he move the engine higher using a rear mounting block and now has clearance for the lever arm to move.