kind of hard to explain. the motor's sprocket on the bike i am using right now is set up like this. from outside to inside: sprocket, metal disc (split into three parts), the rubber gasket thing, spokes, rubber gasket thing, another metal disc, then nuts and washers. The problem is that if this setup is correct (please inform me of the proper way) the sprocket is too close to the frame and the chain will grind on the frame while riding. My question is if any of those pieces in this setup is unnecessary and can be removed in order to give the sprocket and chain some room. can i remove one of the metal discs or rubber gasket things (not sure what it is called), and which one? inside or outside of the wheel. (inside being behind the spokes and outside being between the spokes and sprocket).
are the metal pieces that go around the sprocket necessary?
- Thread starter grandpa2390
- Start date
That was a question I had also as the directions I saw on one of the dealers sites looked like the sproket went against the spokes and this too me would cut the spokes in short order .
it looked like sproket/spokes/rubber/rubber/metal disk,,,this seems wrong for spokes to touch metal
it looked like sproket/spokes/rubber/rubber/metal disk,,,this seems wrong for spokes to touch metal
It is wrong. The spokes should be 'sandwiched' between the rubber parts. The order should be from the outside, in: Sprocket, rubber, spokes, rubber, half moon metal plates.
Tom
"are the metal pieces that go around the sprocket necessary?"
you mean the chain? yeah. you need that.
hahahahaha... sorry, been drinkin' a little
you mean the chain? yeah. you need that.
hahahahaha... sorry, been drinkin' a little
this is for changing out the sprocket from 44 to 36 tooth, but also shows how to mount up a sprocket as well seeing this will help you get it right, I hope.
http://motorbicycling.com/f39/motorized-bicycle-44-36-tooth-sprocket-381.html
if you go to" norms 2 stroke repair center" and look at and read the sticky posts. The posts and pictures might answer a question or show you how to do a fix for a problem you might have.
I try to answer and show everyone a down to earth easy way to fix problems no rocket science needed no slide rule or calculator needed well maybe a ruler and a dial indicator or two.
If you know what I mean? If you have a problem or question either post it or PM me I'm here to help.
Norman
http://motorbicycling.com/f39/motorized-bicycle-44-36-tooth-sprocket-381.html
if you go to" norms 2 stroke repair center" and look at and read the sticky posts. The posts and pictures might answer a question or show you how to do a fix for a problem you might have.
I try to answer and show everyone a down to earth easy way to fix problems no rocket science needed no slide rule or calculator needed well maybe a ruler and a dial indicator or two.
If you know what I mean? If you have a problem or question either post it or PM me I'm here to help.
Norman
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Correct, as long as you don't mis-align the chain path. The tensioner is there to guide the chain onto the rear sprocket. Lateral misalignment, either in or out will open up a whole new can of worms. There are other ways to get the chain away from the tire/frame. Installing a couple of extra washers on the rear axle between the frame and hub is one way.
Tom
I remember d/l 3 different sets of instructions and going over all of them before I started installation...still had my share of troubles.
We just installed a kit on a bike and used both sets of metal plates on the inside of the entire assembly. Basically, they were the last items to go on before the washers and nuts. We spaced them out so that none of the joints overlapped. This REALLY helped with keeping the joints from overlapping each other and the nuts/bolts tightened much easier, without fighting them. Also, the instructions say to install the sprocket (if you have a dished one) with the "shiny" side in which makes the teeth dish out from the wheel. We installed it with the teeth dished in and it helped clear the frame and still clears the tire.
I cant seem to get the side to side wobble out of my sprocket. The wheel is true enough and the bolts tight. Should I shim or something? It rides ok but i'm sure I will wear things out shortly.
Evan
Evan
This is good advice. However I have encountered warped sprockets that could not be flattened by adjusting the bolts. To check if your sprocket is flat you'll need to remove it and lay it on a known flat surface, A sheet of glass is about as flat as you'll find unless you have access to a machinist table. If the sprocket has a warp in it, it can sometimes be straightened by striking with a hammer and a piece of wood.(remove it from the glass first) I've used a large crescent wrench to get the warp out of a poorly made sprocket by bending it until it was flat. Try to get it as true as you can then use the advice given by Nougat, to reinstall the sprocket. As he said, have patients, go slow and work around in a star pattern when snugging the bolts. One other thing to look for is consistancy of thickness of the rubber discs. I've seen them that were cut wrong and were thicker on one side than the other. That will give you fits too and make the sprocket wobble.
Tom
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OK......so my sprocket now looks like something a kid made at the fair with all the pen marks on it. Its not PERFECT but real close. I would probably mess with it some more tonight but I can hardly see strait. Its probably good enough but I want it to be as close to perfect as I can get it before i call it "done". Thanks!
Evan
Evan
No way I would spend the time it takes to have a perfectly true sprocket and thats if it were possible. Next time I have anything to do with that baby I'll ordering an adapter.
