Thanks man.
Those are the stock bars turned up instead of down. I wasn't too wild about them at first either, but they're growing on me.
Meet Stunner
- Thread starter biknut
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Those are the stock bars turned up instead of down. I wasn't too wild about them at first either, but they're growing on me.
Did you get the arm bent to your satisfaction BN? There's always the Ridley arm and it's a direct replacement. That was my choice.
I did, but it was a lot of work. It has to have the most severe bends of any brake arms I've made so far. If I do that again it would be very tempting to just buy one. If I charged what I normally charge when I'm working, this arm would be about $400 lol.
I'd be surprised if any arm would just bolt on though. It needs several bends. One to clear the sprocket, and then it has to bend back in to clear the frame, and then it has to bend back out to where it bolts on the brake stay on the frame, and it has to be in tight enough to the frame so the bolt head clears the rear sprocket. Even thought I got it right up against the brake stay, I still had to grind the bolt head thinner so it wouldn't catch on the chain. That's how close the sprocket has to be to the frame.
Yup, I know what you are saying. I am using the Sportsman's Flyer sprocket and adapter and the same KW engine mounts. The Ridley arm is a bolt on. Doesn't help now as far as the time spent but if you decide the arm looks too over worked it's a backup.
Just for ref: http://www.piratecycles1.com/rimocobebrar.html
Just for ref: http://www.piratecycles1.com/rimocobebrar.html
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Does your bike have a star hub? That's the only kind of arm Pirate has. Mine is a cheapy shimano clone with the D hub.
Mine is the star. I had posted the Pirate link because they show the double D arm. I bought mine directly from Ridley. The contact info is in this thread: http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=39675
I guess you have to have a star hub to use one. Piirate claims the double D one won't fit a normal cheapy hub so I'm not sure it would fit on this bike. It only has a chinese clone hub.
"The D Key is a bit larger then the other coaster brake hubs seen and is not recomended if the fitment is not proper"..
I see. Good to know and cool that you posted that. I'm certainly OK with being wrong as long as it gets put right. If anyone does a search in the future they are likely to find an answer. Bummer there's not a good / easy solution for everybody but at least you have a functional brake arm.
I just wonder what kind of hub their D arm is supposed to fit.
The Atomic BB has a star hub, but I already bent the arm on it too. After all the work I have in these arms. I think I'll leave them to my heirs when I go lol.
Almost done. I worked off and on, all day today making the engine ready. I was a little wore down after yesterdays grind, getting the drive chain lined up.
I pulled both gears on the primary, and reinstalled them. Neither one was properly installed imo. I didn't like the clutch gear either. It had a lot of slop in the big bearing so so I substituted one I felt was a better piece. I checked both seals, and they were good, so after lubing the pinion gear I put the covers back on. Then I installed the clutch and front brake cables, and that's about as far as I can go.
Only thing left is the throttle cable and kill switch. So as soon as I get my new throttle, it should be running pretty quick after that.
This bike has no pretention of being a racer. The motor is basically stock. The only difference is instead of an NT carb I installed a Speed carb, with the $12 air filter. From my experience that won't make it any faster, but it will idle better and have less 4 stroking. My muffler is what I call a modified stock exhaust. It's a stock header with a custom pipe made from a short length of Sportster exhaust pipe strategically cut for looks, with a stock flying horse baffle, sans the cat. This muffler is basically just like the one on the Atomic BB. That means it's not a performance pipe, but it should be very quiet, and work well enough to run 7000 rpm. I'm running a 36T sprocket. I haven't taken the time to calculate the top speed, but with these little 24" wheels I'm thinking it will be doing good to get 30 or 32 mph I hope.
I'll be happy if it runs smooth, and is dependable, like the flying horse motor in the Atomic BB.
I pulled both gears on the primary, and reinstalled them. Neither one was properly installed imo. I didn't like the clutch gear either. It had a lot of slop in the big bearing so so I substituted one I felt was a better piece. I checked both seals, and they were good, so after lubing the pinion gear I put the covers back on. Then I installed the clutch and front brake cables, and that's about as far as I can go.
Only thing left is the throttle cable and kill switch. So as soon as I get my new throttle, it should be running pretty quick after that.
This bike has no pretention of being a racer. The motor is basically stock. The only difference is instead of an NT carb I installed a Speed carb, with the $12 air filter. From my experience that won't make it any faster, but it will idle better and have less 4 stroking. My muffler is what I call a modified stock exhaust. It's a stock header with a custom pipe made from a short length of Sportster exhaust pipe strategically cut for looks, with a stock flying horse baffle, sans the cat. This muffler is basically just like the one on the Atomic BB. That means it's not a performance pipe, but it should be very quiet, and work well enough to run 7000 rpm. I'm running a 36T sprocket. I haven't taken the time to calculate the top speed, but with these little 24" wheels I'm thinking it will be doing good to get 30 or 32 mph I hope.
I'll be happy if it runs smooth, and is dependable, like the flying horse motor in the Atomic BB.
I've just been out pedaling it around. You can usually tell if your sprockets are in line by how much noise they make when you're pedaling. This sounds pretty quiet by motor bicycle standards, so I'm feeling good about that after struggling with it all day yesterday.
It pedals pretty good. It's hard to tell in pictures but this bike very low, especially with these low profile tires. Seat height is only 31" with the seat all the way down. In comparison the Atomic BB, which is lowered 3" in the front from the bent forks, and feels really low, has almost 32" seat height. Even though Stunner is low, it's stretched out at the same time. My number 9s don't even come close to touching the front wheel. Total dry weight is 56 lb. With a full tank it'll probably be right at about 59 or 60 lb. That's slightly lighter than I was thinking it would end up. The Atomic BB in comparison, is 57 lb with a full tank.
It pedals pretty good. It's hard to tell in pictures but this bike very low, especially with these low profile tires. Seat height is only 31" with the seat all the way down. In comparison the Atomic BB, which is lowered 3" in the front from the bent forks, and feels really low, has almost 32" seat height. Even though Stunner is low, it's stretched out at the same time. My number 9s don't even come close to touching the front wheel. Total dry weight is 56 lb. With a full tank it'll probably be right at about 59 or 60 lb. That's slightly lighter than I was thinking it would end up. The Atomic BB in comparison, is 57 lb with a full tank.
I forgot to mention the shorty intake manifold, but I don't really think that adds any extra performance on a otherwise stock motor.
You have built a very nice bike indeed! It looks fast just sitting still.
Very clean and well thought out.
Very clean and well thought out.
That's looking awesome Bro!!
Right on, stealthy pedal is a stealthy ride
It's an honor to me for you guys to make these kind of comments.
The more I look at it, the more I really like your tire choice!
I know what you mean when you say the stock tires have a kind of 'clownish' look to them... If I ever build one of these for myself, I'm following your lead on tire choice.
I know what you mean when you say the stock tires have a kind of 'clownish' look to them... If I ever build one of these for myself, I'm following your lead on tire choice.
Alright I got everything I was waiting for a little while ago from the mailman. It's a done deal tonight, but I'm going to need to make some alterations to my plans.
I don't like the hand grips I bought on fleebay. They're crap. The new throttle handle works though. I'm going to use some stock kit grips with the new throttle. I can always change them later.
The biggest disappointment is the $40 billet Fly kill switch. I want someone to tell me what kind of crappy pos bike besides a china girl uses a normally open kill switch $%^$# that closes when you hit it. What the frickin frik is up with this. A frickin $40 kill switch that works the same as a crappy chinese kit kill switch????? Every motorcycle I've ever owned in 45 years has had a normally closed kill switch, that opens when you use it. After losing 3 magneto coils in short secession this summer I refuse to use a kill that shorts out the coil.
Never fear though, I have a brand new $5 kill switch I bought from SBP for the Atomic BB but never used, so I'll install it on Stunner. After I paint the cheezy bracket on the back it won't be too bad. I waiting on the paint to dry now.
I've already got the throttle cable installed and the grips. All that's left is for me to hook up the wires, install gas line, and fill it with gas.
I don't like the hand grips I bought on fleebay. They're crap. The new throttle handle works though. I'm going to use some stock kit grips with the new throttle. I can always change them later.
The biggest disappointment is the $40 billet Fly kill switch. I want someone to tell me what kind of crappy pos bike besides a china girl uses a normally open kill switch $%^$# that closes when you hit it. What the frickin frik is up with this. A frickin $40 kill switch that works the same as a crappy chinese kit kill switch????? Every motorcycle I've ever owned in 45 years has had a normally closed kill switch, that opens when you use it. After losing 3 magneto coils in short secession this summer I refuse to use a kill that shorts out the coil.
Never fear though, I have a brand new $5 kill switch I bought from SBP for the Atomic BB but never used, so I'll install it on Stunner. After I paint the cheezy bracket on the back it won't be too bad. I waiting on the paint to dry now.
I've already got the throttle cable installed and the grips. All that's left is for me to hook up the wires, install gas line, and fill it with gas.
Thanks Norm. High praise from an expert. It doesn't get any better than that.The more I look at it, the more I really like your tire choice!
I know what you mean when you say the stock tires have a kind of 'clownish' look to them... If I ever build one of these for myself, I'm following your lead on tire choice.
This is the only place I've seen these particular tires offered. You should buy some and offer them on your website, I would buy them from you.
http://luxlow.com/products-page/ll-bicycle-tires-classic-fat-tire-cruiser-mega-chopper-slicks/
