Yes that is the muffler. I covered it with black Header Wrap. This are made in fiber glass and it is very good in suppressing heat.
Problem: Chain Tensioner Or Improper Wheel
- Thread starter Kevron99
- Start date
Yes that is the muffler. I covered it with black Header Wrap. This are made in fiber glass and it is very good in suppressing heat.
The sprockets could be one of the problem too.. The chains are a little bit tight hugging the sprocket teeth. I am planning of grinding,.should I grind the tip of the teeth or the in betweens to make is wider?
By the way good idea on the bolt in front of the axle.
Also, what should I do to elminate the tensioner? How about the chain slack if no tensioner?
Thanks man...
Ron
Adjust tension by moving the wheel back and forth in the droputs. Some bikes may not allow this but no problem with the dozen or so different models I've dealt with. Even on ones that don't allow moving the wheel you can move the engine with shims in the mount as mentioned by Junster. Sounds like too much trouble for me. I'd start using the tensioner again if my wheel couldn't be moved.
I don't share Junsters concern about the wheel slipping forward though. Just ain't gonna happen.
I normally wouldn't worry about the axel slipping forward either. If you look at his pics in post #12 that is what misaligned the wheel. The axel moved in the dropout. To shim the motor and remember shims are solid you only need to do it once or twice. Once you have it right it will stay right. 1/16" thick aluminum sheet is really easy to bend. Just cut a couple pieces 2" wide and 1 1/2" tall bend them around the seatpost with your fingers. Use a halflink if you need to and get the chain as tight as you can without the tensioner. Then loosen the rear wheel for slack, loosen the motor mounts drop in a shim between the rear mount and seatpost tube. Snug up the motor mounts and then put the rear wheel in place. Because your tensioning both sides of the chain with a shim you'll see a 1/16" shim takes up alot of slack. If you can't make the shims you can put washers between the motor and the rear motor mount spacer to do the same thing but it's a little more time consuming. It may take a couple hours of foolin around to get it just right but it isn't like you'll be doing it everyday. The real benefit? You never again have to worry if while your coasting down that hill at 40+ with the clutch pulled. You accidentally drop the clutch hard or the cable breaks. There's no tensioner to bend into the wheel and maybe kill you.
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I just took my bike out for the first 10+ mile run yesterday and noticed the chain worked loose a bit...I would have never been watching so closely had it not been for this string...thank you all! I like using the tensioner as it makes for easy chain mounting and dismounting chainging tire ect. I am going to try glueing my tensioner in place with black RTV it seems to be doing well as a fabricated front motor mount. This URL rocks! You guys are one of the best groups I have seen. Be nice if this hobby were to turn into a father and son sort of association. My dad and I used to go feed the horses it sure gave us some quality time together.
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Couldn't have put it better myself...
IMO half link serves the same purpose with much less fuss. You are dead on about the no tensioner part though.
UPDATE: The black RTV is holding just fine hasn't budged at all...same for the front motor mount.
Personally I wouldn't trust that stuff in either location. Silicone adhesive acts as a lubricant once it breaks loose. Considering what's at stake the self tapping screw seems like a better idea. That is if you insist on using a tensioner in the first place. YMMV
Product Features
* Retains high flexibility, oil resistance properties through use of a patented adhesion system
* Sensor Safe, low odor, noncorrosive
* Meets performance specs of OE silicone gaskets
* Temperature range -65F to 550F intermittent, resists auto and shop fluids and vibration
* Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, intake manifold end seals, timing covers, transmission pans
There isn't even any oil or grease on the spot this stuff is used at. How's it supposed to break down
I guess if you really want durability for a few bucks more you could go with the copper:
Product Features
* Sensor-safe, low odor, non-corrosive
* Superior adhesion
* Three times more oil resistant than conventional silicones; eight times more flexible than cut gaskets
* Temperature range -75F to 700F intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration
* Suggested Applications: Exhaust manifolds/headers, valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings
* Retains high flexibility, oil resistance properties through use of a patented adhesion system
* Sensor Safe, low odor, noncorrosive
* Meets performance specs of OE silicone gaskets
* Temperature range -65F to 550F intermittent, resists auto and shop fluids and vibration
* Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, intake manifold end seals, timing covers, transmission pans
There isn't even any oil or grease on the spot this stuff is used at. How's it supposed to break down
I guess if you really want durability for a few bucks more you could go with the copper:
Product Features
* Sensor-safe, low odor, non-corrosive
* Superior adhesion
* Three times more oil resistant than conventional silicones; eight times more flexible than cut gaskets
* Temperature range -75F to 700F intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration
* Suggested Applications: Exhaust manifolds/headers, valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings
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It don't "break down". That is what makes silicone such a great adhesive and lubricant. However it is not structurally sound like cyanoacrylate, polyurethane, or epoxy so it "breaks loose" relatively easy. Apparently you will need to experience this first hand to appreciate what I am saying. Hopefully it will not require buying another rear wheel.
I used a piece of tube rubber successfully for quite some time until that fateful day when my tensioner slipped into the spokes. And IMO that was better than silicone because rubber is less slippery. In retrospect the screw into the stay idea would have been best except it weakens the steel. Now, w/o a tensioner, these issues do not concern me.
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