I still have to do a few small things but it has been a real challange, I mounted the motor offset a fraction of an inch to get the chain to clear the fat rear tire. I will let you guys know how it runs later this week and post some final pics
Nirve Switchblade Chopper build
- Thread starter JDmotorsports
- Start date
awsome ... one of my favorite bicycles .
Theres another one i seen , but the guy used a small roll bag on the handle bars for the gas tank ( that i thought looked really good )
Theres another one i seen , but the guy used a small roll bag on the handle bars for the gas tank ( that i thought looked really good )
thanks, i thought about looking into prices to put a tank in the frame as i plan to put a headlight on the front
looks great. did you fab your own front mount. please post pics, and was it a pain to get the offset needed to clear rear tire,those are the two things stopping me from putting the motor on my switchblade kinda sucks because im on my 5th build already and just keep looking at the switchblade going one day
the rear engine mount is mounted slightly off center and the rear sprocket is shimmed out a little to match, this requires some filing and bending of the coaster brake arm and sprocket bolts
i will post some pics asap
i had my nirve bike sitting around for 3 years before i was brave enough to give it a go, it was worth the trouble as it is such a pleasure to ride
i will post some pics asap
i had my nirve bike sitting around for 3 years before i was brave enough to give it a go, it was worth the trouble as it is such a pleasure to ride
i also had to file down the rear motor mount to produce the new groove for the frame as offset as possible.
Would it be possible for you to post some good close-up photos of your build? Especially the engine mounts. I and others would be interested. It appears you used the kit supplied rag joint on the rear sprocket. Correct?
Tom
Tom
i am not sure what the rag joint is?
here are the pictures of the mounts and rear sprocket.
My hands are sore from filing but i guess next time i will use a dremmel.
here are the pictures of the mounts and rear sprocket.
My hands are sore from filing but i guess next time i will use a dremmel.
Attachments
the first pic shows how i used a large bolt with a rounded head to sit slightly offset to frame and mounted slightly offset to motor I attatched the motor to the bolt with a metal item used to fasten pipe or lights to concrete ceilings,(ask me for a pic of this item) the second pic shows how i filed down the rear sprocket hole and bent the coasterbrake as well as filing it down. you may need to file the sprocket bolts when you shim out the sproket, i used double sided padded to tape to shim out my rear sprocket) the last pic shows how i filed down one side of the mount and added a spacer to the other side to ensure that the chain will clear the rear tire, overall i am happy with mounts as i have put over 100km of smooth riding on it already and no bolts came loose, nor does it vibrate. any suggestions or thought would be greatly appreciated as I will be working on my next Nirve switchblade build
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i have the ampt motor mounts from pirate and they are 5/8 offset. im thinking this will work for the rear mount ,and make a front mount. just a thought but i think after measuring that these mounts will work
JD ... I don't know , that long bolt for a mount looks scary
I'm just being honest
mabey it will work ok , but i think under power the chain is gonna want to pull the motor sideways and you might end up breaking a stud .
I think it would be 200 percent better if you did it the same way but with a 1 inch tube welded to the frame , and mabey a couple gussets ( if you can get it welded )
If it was me , i would try pedaling it with the clutch engaged first ( with no gas ... don,t start it up ) just to see if the motor is going to shift . ( don't do it with dry piston rings )
I'm just being honest
mabey it will work ok , but i think under power the chain is gonna want to pull the motor sideways and you might end up breaking a stud .
I think it would be 200 percent better if you did it the same way but with a 1 inch tube welded to the frame , and mabey a couple gussets ( if you can get it welded )
If it was me , i would try pedaling it with the clutch engaged first ( with no gas ... don,t start it up ) just to see if the motor is going to shift . ( don't do it with dry piston rings )
even easier yet ... install the chain properly ... just stand beside the bike ... and push down on the top of the chain a bit with your foot , and watch to see if the motor starts to shift .
i had to rebuild with a mount i ordered from calgary and it was no designed for nirve so it worked but i still need to figure out how to get chain of bicycle and pedals clearance issues so again i am back to square one practically after 4 years but i still get to ride the bike now which is awsome even though i have no brakes or pedals..lol 
