The ultimate HT performance parts list!

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mew905

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Sep 24, 2012
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Moose Jaw
Carburetors
$9 - 15mm Walboro clone(??), 31mm bolt spacing (will bolt onto your JUG!)
$19 - Runtong (RT) Carb; Semi-auto choke (throttle click-off), no filter.
$20 - Runtong (RT) Carb; Cable choke, includes air filter
$33 - 17mm to 21mm Dellorto PHBG barebones carb
$50 - 19mm Dellorto clone with mounting hardware, filter & various jets
$53 - 24mm Mikuni racing carb
$32 - 24mm to 34mm Mikuni Clones
$10 - Set of 5 M5 jets, varying sizes
$9 - 32mm Foam air filter (for PHBG clones)
$20 - 4pk various size clamp-on air filters

Intakes
$17-$25 - Various intake manifolds and adapters
$65 - RSE standard reed valves
$95 - RSE high flow reed valves, low profile
$85 + S&H - 32mm Arrow 4-petal reed block, 13mm carb inlet
$220 - Custom Arrow 4-petal reed block & jug, 18mm carb inlet

Top End
$40 - Stage 1 GT5 cylinder (PK80 version)
$120 - Stage 2 GT5 cylinder (PK80 version)
$70-$220 - Various Arrow ported jugs and reed combos
$195 - Puch Gilardoni 74cc high power cylinder, no Head (Alt. With head $235)
$150 - Derbi Metrakit 70cc flat reed top end kit
$15 - Hoca Minarelli piston
$60 - CRMachine Stage 2 head (6.0cc) (5.3cc) (7.2cc)
$30 - Puch Hi compression head (Hi Hi version)

Electrical/Controls
$5 - Pair of brake levers with brake light switch, no controls
$7 - Left side brake lever with lights switch & controls
$16 - Lights, signals, kill all in one switch
$12 - Dual brake lever
$9 - Dual brake cable
$7 - SBP NGK Iridium Heat 6 Heat 7 Heat 8 (higher is colder)
$10 - Iridium spark plug, Heat 8
$12 - NGK Iridium Spark plug
$60 - Jaguar v2 CDI (no coil) v1.9 (with coil)
$80 - HD Lightning CDI with Keyed ignition
$30 - "Race" Ignition coil
$12 - CNC multi-position throttle
$25 - Domino deluxe throttle/brake/choke
$6 - 8 color aluminum throttle grips
$60 - 12v internal generator for HT
$10 - SBP High quality fuel petcock
$1.55 - Throttle cable knarp
$4 - 61" throttle cable, no housing, no knarp (in case you need another one)
$500 - Ecotrons small engine fuel injection

Guts
$10 - SBP Engine hardware kit (high grade bolts)
$10 - SBP Head stud kit (M6-1.0) (M8-1.0) (M8-1.25)
$0.60 - Wide exhaust gasket (GT2a/5a intake gasket)
$2.50 - SBP Aluminum exhaust gasket
$10 - 66cc Gasket set
$37 - Ceramic 6202 high-speed, low friction crank/clutch bearings (pair)
$20 - 50pc. 6202 2RS (sealed) steel crank bearings
$10 - 1pc. SKF 6202-2RS C3 crank bearings
$19 - 10mm Titanium wrist pin, 8.5g lighter **danger! high risk of catastrophic damage!** see here for more info
$5 - Light weight silver wrist bushing, 4.5g lighter
$6 - Tomos brass wrist bushing 10x14x13
$15 - Gilardoni Silver racing bearing 10x14x13
 
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mew905

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Sep 24, 2012
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Moose Jaw
Exhaust
$25 - JNM Exhaust header
$34 - BGF Voodoo expansion pipe
$32 - Banana expansion pipe w/ silencer
$30 - Street exhaust, EPA approved
$40 - Braided flex pipe "Motocross" expansion chamber
$40 - X1 Fatty Performance pipe (The fabled "Snake pipe" arrow uses)(will need fabrication)
$156 - Tecnigas Next-R 70cc performance pipe (will need fabrication)
**KTM65 pipes from ebay seem to be popular with performance riders. However upon trying to find a source, I can only find one-off sales, no vendors or manufacturers for a decent price**

Mounting
$50 - Manic Mechanic sprocket adapter
$24 - 40T Sprocket, disc brake mount
$39 - CNC Coaster Brake sprocket mount
$59 - Top Hat Disc brake sprocket adapter
$40 - 1pc MM CNC adjustable angle engine mount
$140 - SBP Shift Kit (standard) (HD) (Deluxe HD)
$40 - Turbobuick1 engine mounted chain tensioner

Diagnostics/Gauges
$20 - TTO Tachometer (Bulk buy 30 for $310)
$24 - Analog bicycle speedometer, hub attached cable
$130 - Trailtech Vapor Gauge (RPM/Spd/Temp/Distance/Time)
$170 + service charges - Spybike anti-theft GPS

Chassis
$18 - inked1974 heavy duty lay back seat posts
$100 - Felt Jerry Springer fork
$150 - Felt Abraham Linkage springer fork
$155 - Monark Springer forks ($180 - V2)
$35 - Greenline HD Springer fork
$77 - Dimension cross 1" steer tube disc brake fork (added because 1" tube disc brake forks are hard to find)
$10 - Jagwire colored brake line housing
$28.50 - Avid BB5 disc brake set
$35 - Colored 8" brake discs ($16 - 160mm)
$99 - 255mm Disc brake rotor and adapter kit
$50 - Avid BB7 front disc brake set 160-200mm
$57 - Hydraulic disc brake set, no discs
$32 - 64pc colored spokes 258mm to 263mm
Bicycle Designer unique parts superstore - 255mm disc brakes, 1" threaded disc brake forks, springers, etc.
 
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mew905

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Sep 24, 2012
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I'd add them but there's so many to choose from. However if you know of any pipes can be used with the HT engines that are difficult to find or unknown to the forum users, please by all means let me know so I can add it. All I ever really see is racing pipes ranging from high power, to low power. I have yet to see a pipe that adds a broad range of power.

Added a few more items to the list as well, including the SBP iridium plugs and competing CDI's (please no bashing either one, the jaguar works quite well and is very well documented. I'd like to know more about the lightning CDI though)

It'd also be really cool if someone developed a sort of universal exhaust header so we can chop and weld any chamber we choose
 
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rogergendron1

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Sep 18, 2013
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I can build a high performance ht with nothing but a dremal tool and the stock parts it came with . . .

And i can make it rev higher and make more power where i want it than an unexperianced builder who just bolts on a bunch of so called high performance parts and hopes it goes fast after lol yeh you can spend 400$ on an ultimate top end kit from jakes or jnm or arrow cycles and just bolt it up but without knowing how to make the correct intake duration and exhaust duration for your setup and how to tune exhaust length and expanrion chamber therory and how to set a sqquish band to an effective distance than all those parts are a lot of wasted money but hey i think you will feel some performance from the increased comp and freed up exhaust but it wont be anywhere what it should be lol

the point is you really dont need to actualy buy anything to make a high performance china gorl ¡ one of my fastest bikes ever was a grubee gt5 running ALL stock parts! !!!!!!! I did however spend a whole lot of time porting for a target rpm range and making an exhaust and decking the head and resaping the chamber and deckimg the jug and porting the transfers and changing the transfer angle and cutting and grinding the piston and port matching the case to the jug and tunning the cns carb and portmatching the intake manifold and exe exe exe . . . The point is i didnt spend a dime on it lol and it was one of the fastest bikes i built! it had more power than if i spent 400$ on a top end kit from jakes and jist slapped it on! !!!!

But what you really want to do is all of that hard work but on the performance parts, making shure they are all in tolerance and port matched and the right comp ratio the right case comp ratio and the right aquish . . .Its a lot of work. . But then you will have something you can look at and know its right and no one can touch it!
 

rogergendron1

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woburn ma
For instance i met a guy here who bought the arrow reed block kit and he complained it actually had less power lol i told him for 50 $ i would fix it

turns out he just slapped the reed block and dellorto carb on a bone stock motor !!!

For that 50$ i took off his top end and took his head to a belt sander till it was around 6cc then finnished the gasket surface to net higher comp
then i cut the skirt up 5mm and drilled 2 small holes side by side in the intake side of the piston to give him aroind 160 deg intake duration then ramped the exhaust and transfers for flow and timing corrections
then since i had the jug off i gave it a good port clean up nothing special just a good cleanup
then i cut his exhaust open and gutted the cat out of it and welded the end cap back on and drilled out a new stinger hole that was 5/8 id then welded it all togethwr

the bike ran like a beast after that! !! The guy was actually blown away it could be that mutch of a differance and the bike had all the same parts as before he couldnt understand what i did lol he was baffled as to how i made the reed valve system work the way it should he just didnt get the inner workings and duration and timing and comp and all that he was shure all u had to do is bolt parts on and it goes faster lol and a lot of people are like that now they dont understand the funtion of the parts they are bolting on or the combination of parts that should be used
 

rogergendron1

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How about the mikuni vm 16 and 18?

THOSE ARE GREAT carbs

and the walbro carbs to but those are not for the beginner as they need pulse lines drilled and tapped into the case or jug
 

mew905

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Sep 24, 2012
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yeah I've got a VM24 on there. PHBG's are pretty good as well. You can only get so far with the stock junk, however. A well tuned china girl will be GREAT, don't get me wrong, but you can only do so much with such limited parts. You can only remove so much material from the jug before you go through it or terminally weaken it. You can only suck so much air through the tiny intake, most 80cc scooters run 21mm or larger carbs, 18mm is the minimum for 50cc high performance. Our motors come with 14mm garbage and a 1/2" intake (12.7mm) The exhaust is alright, especially since it has to conform to EPA standards, once hollowed out it's decent. The transfers are terrible angles, and tiny, the intake and exhaust ports are tiny, the 66cc engines are vibration machines.

All of which are easily fixable with some tools, but others will need to be replaced. The 74cc jug, decked and a high comp head with 24mm carb and reeds and a pipe matched to the jug rpm should easily nail 8hp or more. You can save yourself $200 and port your own jug, you can save yourself $25 and build your own intake for $8 if you can weld, and even make a good street pipe for $25, again if you can weld and find materials. There's tons of ways to cut corners and save money, if you have the tools and the know-how. but most don't, or don't have the time, in either case, this list gives them a good amount of options :)
 

66sub

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May 27, 2014
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canada
please dont list ways to waste money or selling speed. A 48CC cannot use even a 16mm carb. It is proven the cdi are retarded bandaids costing near 100 bucks.
finaly i state that items that only quiet and increase service life absoluetly should be listed wich would be short and sweet. OTHERWISE IT BECOMES A SHOPPING LIST FOR TYPISTS.

that being said i like it anyway. great job!
 
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mew905

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Sep 24, 2012
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Moose Jaw
please dont list ways to waste money or selling speed. A 48CC cannot use even a 16mm carb. It is proven the cdi are retarded bandaids costing near 100 bucks.
finaly i state that items that only quiet and increase service life absoluetly should be listed wich would be short and sweet. OTHERWISE IT BECOMES A SHOPPING LIST FOR TYPISTS.

that being said i like it anyway. great job!
I disagree. It's all about how much gas and air you can pack into that cylinder, and how quickly you can burn it.

The more gas and air you can pack in = more power
The less exhaust gas remaining in the cylinder = more power
The closer your AFR is to 14.7:1 makes a faster burn = more power
The more you can compress it makes a faster burn = more power
The shape of the combustion chamber makes a faster burn = more power
The less gas/air that gets sucked into the exhaust = more power
Dual sparks like CRMachine makes makes a faster burn = theoretically more power.

a 66cc at 8000 RPM is going to ask for about 9CFM of air, the rough equivalent of sucking the air out of a beach ball in 1 minute. Doesn't sound like much, but that's also assuming 65% VE. the theoretical maximum an engine can suck in is equal to its displacement (about 18.5CFM, or 680 grams), and at the perfect ratio the entire time, you get about 61 minutes of runtime out of a gallon. The closer we get to that mark, the more power we will have.

The unfortunate thing is most of the power to be had with these little engines has to be major modifications or stock part replacement. Simply changing port timing is not nearly enough (the timing is fine for 5500 RPM anyway). Changing transfer angles will help a large amount, as our transfer angles are god-awful. Primary (Case) compression will help too, if you dont overdo it. But for the absolute most power, you need to go case reed. Not an easy task. Arrow and Mech_engineer are the only two I know of who have done such a modification, but it'll get you the closest possible to that theoretical 100% because even jug reeds will be blocked and become turbulent from the piston.
 
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66sub

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May 27, 2014
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canada
:) yes to that showboat idea. however my rudeness wasnt directed at you theon but at crankstuffing in general i think its ridiculas.
like stuffing cranks will make up for **** exhaust. BS!
 
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mew905

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Sep 24, 2012
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Moose Jaw
:) yes to that showboat idea. however my rudeness wasnt directed at you theon but at crankstuffing in general i think its ridiculas.
like stuffing cranks will make up for **** exhaust. BS!
stuffing cranks counters the pressure of the exhaust gases pushing their way down into the crank case. I added a boost port and drilled out my crank for balance and lost a lot of pressure and melted my crank seals doing so (as well as the JB weld I had in the transfers). Worst case scenario could be the whole case grenading, because that's fresh fuel mix down there waiting to get into the chamber.

Increasing the pressure in the case prevents such things from happening, as well as helps to force the exhaust gases out. Too much will blow all your mix straight out the exhaust though, as with nearly everything on these engines, balance is key.
 

SchwinnStingray

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Apr 1, 2014
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Australia
The less gas/air that gets sucked into the exhaust = more power
will have.
Sorry but I fail to see how wasted fuel out the exhaust has any bearing on the compression stroke, sure your economy will go out the window, but so long as your AF mix is correct and the cylinder is full then power should remain the same.


Also,
FWIW it is not necessarily faster OR the slower the burn, the more power.
It is getting the right compression ratio to suit the octane rating you are using.
This is why we use higher octane fuels with higher compression, they slow the burn rate.
If it just went band instantaneously with the piston at 12o'clock it would probably bend the conrod.
 

mew905

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Sep 24, 2012
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Moose Jaw
Sorry but I fail to see how wasted fuel out the exhaust has any bearing on the compression stroke, sure your economy will go out the window, but so long as your AF mix is correct and the cylinder is full then power should remain the same.


Also,
FWIW it is not necessarily faster OR the slower the burn, the more power.
It is getting the right compression ratio to suit the octane rating you are using.
This is why we use higher octane fuels with higher compression, they slow the burn rate.
If it just went band instantaneously with the piston at 12o'clock it would probably bend the conrod.
you're right, I was a little off there, but any wasted mix is wasted power. Of course an expansion pipe will help cram it back into the chamber at the proper RPM, that's why you get more power in the tuned range. Technically speaking it's just raising the compression a bit with less waste, but stuffing it back into the cylinder gives you more bang :)
 

rogergendron1

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Sep 18, 2013
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Simply upping the cilynder compression and case compression and swapping the bearings and porting for around 7,000 along with a good x chamber tunned to that rpm range for broad power and around a 16-18 mm carb puts this style ht motor right where it needs to be even running it strait piston port

i wouldnt ask any more from a china girl without risking hera short life and quick death