I like that idea. I am pretty sure I have an alum flywheel so I will check that out sometime this week.
Vintage Cleveland Welding BTR Build
- Thread starter Moisstink
- Start date
Here are a few photo's of where I am at with the build. I am planning out my jackshaft right now. I think I have my gear ratio worked out and was thinking pillow block bearings bolted to the engine mount (which will need modification) The engine mount is 1/8" stainless with U-bolts to the frame. I cannot see the amount of torque twisting it. I will also need to bend the cranks a bit. for bending the cranks I was thinking steel pipe, vice and butane or propane torch. Any hints on bending cranks would be greatly appreciated.
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Looking awesome! Were or what did you use for pipe to fit over muffler ? Maybe you can fit the pillow blocks behind the seat post and bolt them to the plate. Putting the shaft behind the seat post maybe need some spacers..............Curt
Thanks! I just went to the Ace hardware store picked up some copper pipe. I brought the muffler in and it was about as snug a fit as you could find. I had seen some kind of spark arrestor on Ebay that had the same look for around 100.00. I just screwed the outter pipe to the muffler and used some red locktite which may burn off from the heat but it is a pretty tight fit. I am ordering the pillow blocks tonight w a 5/8" shaft.
So, the jackshaft parts came in today and It looks like the way I am going to go about the jackshaft is exactly how you suggested. It looks like it will all bolt on and line up without heavy modification. I know it will not be that easy though. I did not think the pillow block bearings would be as huge. I will post photos soon.
So, progress today beyond just checkin the noise. Welded up a seat post, and added the jackshaft. I have a really different idea for the gas tank and am waiting for parts with that. The seat post is solid 5/8" coming out of the frame and the pipe coming off that for the estension is 1/16" walled steel pipe. Not sure if that is strong enough to hold 180 lbs bouncin around at 25 - 30 mph.
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The belt drive could be quieter, but slippage around a small pulley is a problem. If there was a belt drive that is like a timing belt with teeth, that would be what I would like to see. A pulley that could be attached to the wheel with synchronous teeth type for the belt like on some motorcycles is what I thinking of.
MT
MT
use the surch and look for cold bending cranks. one of the members here have done it.
like your build and am reredading it.............Curt
Belt slippage is not a problem if properly done. This bike has a belt primary and as I remember the driven pulley is small like 2.25-2.5" Its running 5+hp also. The secret is using an adjustable driven pulley as a tensioner. Tightening the outer sheave will easily tighten the belt to a no slip tension. Also removes any drive train play on the primary side. I built one double chain drive bike and drive train lash was unpleasant. http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=397092&postcount=90
WayneZ did the cold bending. Made a neat jig to do it.
On one of the pics of the build it appears you have attached a sediment bowl to the inlet pipe on the Pulsajet carb. This may cause the engine to flood as there is no way for the fuel flow to be regulated. The fuel is drawn from a small fuel well in the tank by suction in stock form. As is (unless you have added a form of check valve) fuel should begin to flow into the carb when turned on. I believe it can be made to work as you want but a check valve of some sort will be necessary. My Maytag engine has one in the pickup which is just a simple metal disc that rises and falls with the intake pulses.
Beautiful build by the way!
On one of the pics of the build it appears you have attached a sediment bowl to the inlet pipe on the Pulsajet carb. This may cause the engine to flood as there is no way for the fuel flow to be regulated. The fuel is drawn from a small fuel well in the tank by suction in stock form. As is (unless you have added a form of check valve) fuel should begin to flow into the carb when turned on. I believe it can be made to work as you want but a check valve of some sort will be necessary. My Maytag engine has one in the pickup which is just a simple metal disc that rises and falls with the intake pulses.
Beautiful build by the way!
I was actually hoping that I could bypass a new carb and stick with the sediment bowl for a fuel source for the suction carb. I thought I might have to do some modifying to make it work. I am going to research the check valve as a possible cure for the flooding issue. I am really hoping to have this all worked out by the beginning of Aug. Fingers crossed.
I am still considering the different carb if the flooding issue cannot be resolved.
I think you have to have the tank or at least the mounting part for that carb to work, as the rubber diofram is also a pump if that is what you are trying to do?.........Curt
The diaphragm is for the pump which draws fuel to fill the well for the intake pipe. Shouldnt be necessary, but leave in place in the carb. Here is a pic of the Maytag intake pipe/check valve. It would work fine on the Pulsajet carb if you can get it to fit. The size looks close as I remember. This would allow the fuel to be drawn from the sediment bowl, but prevent the gravity fuel flow from the tank into the carb. They can be found on ebay, I paid $12 for this one. You will want to use this in place of the shorter tube on the carb, and remove the long one.
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